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Description

True left wall of kloof

Access issues inherited from Mhlabatini

The Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) owns Mhlabatini. Access to non-members is restricted by permits issued by the Johannesburg section.

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start on bushy ledge where the crux pitch of Dinkum Dihedral starts. 15m right of Shadowplay is a dihedral with a large capping roof.

  1. 28m Climb up open book up to roof. Traverse out under roof and go out under roof on the left. Climb to top.

FA: M. Haffner & C. Curson, 1985

1 16 25m
2 13 18m

Start 5m downstream from Straight Edge on the true left of the kloof just upstream of a small cave (Swhweesicles). Start at the base of a triangular slab below an obvious downstream facing dihedral with a smooth face on the right.

  1. 25m (16) Scramble up triangular slab to top of triangle (rusty piton here). Jam up crack with difficulty for about 3m until your feet are on the good rail. Step left and around the corner onto a wide ledge. Just around the corner is a wide crack, climb this to an extensive grassy ledge. Walk 5m left to a large tree on wide flattish rock ledge.

  2. 18m (13) Climb grey and orange slab directly behind tree to top.

FA: J. Anderson & P. Venter, 1965

1 19 22m
2 14 25m

Start at small deep cave opposite big tree 8m below Straight Edge Corner.

  1. 22m (19) Climb up in cave. Move left under overhang into crack and up to a recess where you can stand. Follow crack to top. At the top make a small detour to the right to avoid plants growing in the crack at the top.

  2. 25m (14) Continue directly upwards (2m right of chimney recess with two trees) on coarse grained rock to top. (12m up is a tree).

FA: M. Makowski, J. Anderson & I. McLachlan, 1966

Start 4m downstream of Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained beneath a 1m roof with a crack running through it.

  1. 25m (21) Follow crack through the roof (crux). On the right hand wall above the roof there are two rails, the higher one has a piton in it. Hand traverse on the lower rail to a good ledge on the right. Climb up arete to the top.

Find a good abseil tree to decent.

FA: S. Mallory & G. Mallory, 1983

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