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Eureka Dome & Skeerpoort

  • Grade context: SA
  • Photos: 1

Flora and Fauna: Vulture Colony & Black Eagles

Some of the main Skeerpoort cliffs are off limits to avoid any possible disturbance of the vulture colony. Further, climbers are asked to avoid climbing at Eureka Dome from April to October since Black Eagles are known to nest in the area.

See warning details and discuss

Created 6 months ago

Access: COVID-19: Lockdown

South Africa has ordered a national lockdown from March 27.

See warning details and discuss

Created 8 weeks ago

Summary

Longest climbs in the Magalies along its South escarpment.

Description

Skeerpoort and Eureka Dome (the name of the extreme western buttress) is a trad climbing area on the escarpment of the Magaliesberg boasting some of the longest climbs in the area including Upthrust (19), which, at 140 metres, is the longest recorded climb in the Magaliesberg. There are many vulture nests on the cliffs especially between Eureka Chimney and Eureka Gully. There are over 40 routes listed for Skeerpoort/ Eureka Dome, ranging between grade 8 and 25. Classic climbs include Aftermath, a 110 metre, 6 pitch, 4 star grade 19 and Long Drop, a 120 metre, 6 pitch, 5 star grade 20. Please note: There's a lack of easy descents from the eastern end of the Skeerpoort faces. Descent from the Eastern Buttress is via Eureka Gully.

Access issues

The area is on private property; liaise with the MCSA regarding access.

Some of the main Skeerpoort cliffs are off limits to avoid any possible disturbance of the vulture colony. Further, climbers are asked to avoid climbing at Eureka Dome from April to October since Black Eagles are known to nest in the area. However, as this is a South facing crag, it gets very cold in winter which means it’s best to climb there in the summer anyway.

Approach

One hour from Johannesburg by car. The walk in is generally steep and bushy, taking about 45 minutes to an hour.

Where to stay

No accommodation or camping, it is a day crag.

Ethic

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. 9 climbs (including the longest Magaliesberg climb, Upthrust) cannot be climbed at all due to vultures nesting on the cliffs.

Areas

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Closed Vulture Colony Sector
24
0
98m

Routes

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Grade Route

The gully to the left of Eureka Buttress. This is blocked by a series of huge overhanging chockstones, the surmounting of which involves a short pitch of grade 10 climbing on the right.

FA: D. P. Liebenberg, H. de Beer, H. Biesheuvel, H.J. Barker & C. Hutchinson, 1934

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