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Kranskloof

  • Grade context: SA
  • Aka: Krantzkloof

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Created 7 weeks ago

Summary

Kranskloof is one of the closest trad climbing areas to Johannesburg. With one of the shortest and flattest walk-ins, it’s an open, sunny kloof with a variety of climbs between grades 11 to 22.

Description

There are approximately 160 trad climbs in Kranskloof, most of which are two pitches in length. The venue has a good variety of climbs between the grades of 11 to 22. Climbs can be found in either the sun or the shade. Access off the climbs is generally by walking down various gullies as indicated in the route book.

Access issues

Kranskloof is privately owned and access is at the discretion of the land owner. No permits are available for non-members. A cash charge of R40 per member and per guest is charged, to be paid to the MCSA Administrator, who will pay the owner.

Approach

  1. hrs from Johannesburg The walk in to Kranskloof is the shortest for a Magaliesberg trad climbing venue with a total distance of 900 metres over relatively flat terrain, though it takes about 25 minutes because the path is heavily overgrown.

Where to stay

Camping in the kloof is not allowed. The land owner intends opening a bunkhouse/ guesthouse from April 2012.

Ethic

No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg.

Some content has been provided under license from: © MCSA (MCSA)

Routes

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Grade Route

To the right of STEPPENWOLF there is a prominent rib. The climb is up the right-hand side of this rib.

  1. 40m 15 Climb up right of a tree protruding from a steep face. Move up into a crack running up this face. Climb to a ledge and traverse left to the rib. Climb up the right hand side of the rib until the rock overhangs slightly. Move left around the rib and up to a ledge. Continue up easy-angled rock to the top.

Note: The climb may be broken into two pitches.

FA: L. Cobber & Clive Ward, 1980

1 13 23m
2 11 20m

The route takes the obvious chimney that runs the full height of the krantz and lies 50m downstream of RHEBOK GULLY.

  1. 23m 13 Climb the chimney and continue up the face to the left of the recess. Move to the face on the right side of the recess and climb it until level with the overhang blocking the chimney above. Traverse left to the overhang and pull through to gain a good stance.

  2. 20m 11 Continue up the chimney to the top.

FA: D. Peters, Clive Ward & Eckhart Druschke, 1980

1 11 10m
2 17 35m

50m downstream of Reebok Gully is an obvious chimney running the height of the cliff. Start 5m to the left of this below a very steep white face which leads to a band of overhangs 30m up.

  1. 10m 11 Climb the short rock band to a large ledge directly below the steep white face.

  2. 35m 17 Climb the steep orange face to the overhang 18m up. Traverse 3m left to the end of the overhang and climb the open book above for 2m before traversing right onto the nose. Continue up to the ledge.

FA: Eckhart Druschke, Clive Ward & D. Peters, 1980

1 9 20m
2 8 25m

15m upstream from WASSAIL.

  1. 20m 9 Start in a deep recess and climb bearing left to a small corner. Climb up, bear slightly right and then back left to a good stance.

  2. 25m 8 Continue straight up keeping right in a wide recess to the top.

FA: Clive Ward, 1980

1 17 30m
2 15 20m
3 13 30m

Approximately 10m upstream from GROTESQUE. Cairn.

  1. 30m 17 Start below the right-hand end of an overhang which is situated about 10m above the streambed. Climb to the overhang, move right turning the corner and traversing right (approximately 5m). Climb up to a tree on a ledge.

  2. 20m 15 Step down from the ledge and traverse left across a break in the wall. Step around an arete. Climb diagonally left to a good ledge.

  3. 30m 13 Climb up and onto the arete continuing up to the top.

FA: A. Wood, D. Peters & Clive Ward, 1980

1 18 50m
2 14 10m

60m ropes are recommended, which will allow a single abseil descent from the tree at the top.

FA: C.H. Ziranek & J.C. Prinsloo, 2008

1 11 20m
2 17 16m
3 11 30m

Situated opposite the gully that is just above Nettle Gully. The climb follows the prominent V-shaped diagonally left-sloping fault line that runs right of the downstream-facing face.

  1. 20m 11 Climb the fault line that runs diagonally left to a tree with gross limbs. Continue up a few metres to a good ledge on the left.

  2. 16m 17 Traverse 5m left to the recess and climb it until level with a cubbyhole. Move right to the cubbyhole and continue to a very large ledge.

  3. 30m 11 Climb an obvious steep recess above on excellent rock to the top.

FA: D. Peters, Alvin Wood & Clive Ward, 1980

1 7 40m
2 11 35m

Start on the true right-hand wall of the kloof opposite the junction with NETTLE GULLY in a gully ending in steep rock (downstream of GROTESQUE).

  1. 40m 7 Start at the base of the grey face and climb/scramble 15m onto a wide ledge. Move right past the gully that forms the base of a prominent chimney with two overhangs. Climb the right-hand wall of the gully to a stance 15m above ledge. (This pitch can be divided into two sections if an intermediate stance is made at the ledge at the base of the gully.)

  2. 35m 11 Move left from the stance and diagonally upwards to the base of the chimney and climb to the top.

FA: . van Rensburg, H. Barker, R. & A. Friede, 1981

1 11 20m
2 10 20m
3 13 20m

Start where the perennial spring gushes out of the rock on the true right-hand side of the kloof.

  1. 20m 11 Climb diagonally left up an obvious crack / fault, and finally straddle through a small overhang to gain a ledge.

  2. 20m 10 Climb 5m up to a corner just right of the prominent rib 15m up. From the corner traverse left round the prominent rib to a ledge with a large tree.

  3. 20m 13 Climb the face at the back of the ledge to the top, by keeping to the corner.

FA: D. Peters & Greg Moseley, 1979

1 15 25m
2 13 35m

Note: Descent down RHEBOK GULLY.

FA: T.P. Wilmot, F. Greig & M. Greenslade, 1990

1 13 25m
2 14 25m

Situated 25m downstream of the spring (at the base of MOSES) and therefore directly opposite NETTLE GULLY is an obvious downstream facing open book.

  1. 25m 13 Climb the open book to a ledge and tree belay.

  2. 25m 14 Climb the corner at the back of the ledge past two trees, to reach the base of an obvious corner which is followed to the summit.

FA: M. Smith & H. Gill, 1985

1 5 10m
2 19 20m
3 13 33m

The climb takes the prominent red crack / chimney 50m upstream of STAMVRUG GULLY and 50m downstream of the spring.

  1. 10m 5 Scramble through the easy rock band to the large ledge at the foot of the prominent red crack / chimney.

  2. 20m 19 Climb the crack/chimney right to its top before traversing several metres to the right to a ledge with a large tree.

  3. 33m 13 Climb the chimney above exiting on the right side of it and continue up the arete to the top.

FA: Clive Ward & D. Peters, 1979

Start 50m upstream from STAMVRUG GULLY and right of PAD PAD, 20m above the stream level.

  1. 45m 10 Climb the sloping grey pillar that has a vertical wall on its left-hand side. The climb steepens towards the top.

FA: C. Fatti & P. Kaiser, 1980

1 8 30m
2 11 15m

Start left of VUIL PHEILER. The climb follows a slab which narrows to one metre at the top.

  1. 30m 8 Climb on the slab (easy at first) to a small tree where the rock is red.

  2. 15m 11 Continue straight up to the top.

FA: C. & A. Fatti, 1981

Start just upstream of EASY DOES IT, at a narrow point in the kloof bed beside a large tree.

  1. 45m 10 Climb 20m up a clean grey face, following a vertical crack line to an overhang. Climb the break to the left of the overhang onto a small nose (good holds). Continue straight up to the top.

Note: A clean, pleasant climb.

FA: C. Fatti & P. Kaiser, 1980

1 10 33m
2 11 33m

50m downstream of STAMVRUG GULLY a well-defined ridge projects into the kloof. The climb starts up the distinctive 10m high open book just downstream of this ridge.

  1. 33m 10 Climb the open book keeping in the corner. Continue up the corner/chimney for a short distance before moving onto the face on the right. Climb the face passing a small stamvrug tree on the left to a stance next to a small pinnacle with a block on it.

  2. 33m 11 Bypass the overhang 5m up by climbing the face just to the right of it and continue up 5m to just below a ledge. Traverse a few metres left to a well-defined crack and follow this to the top.

FA: Clive Ward & D. Peters, 1979

1 6
2 6

80m downstream of STAMVRUG GULLY, the faces are some distance above the kloof. Bash through the bush and proceed leftwards to a very obvious corner with an easy-angled slab forming the left-hand side. The start is a good tree at the base of the climb.

  1. 40m 6 Climb in the corner, moving generally leftwards. Stance just before the corner runs out

  2. 25m 6 Continue up the corner for 2m and generally right onto the nose and then up to a good tree.

FA: E. Jones & Ms F. Richardson, 1980

1 15 30m
2 10 30m
3 15 45m

The climb starts on the right-hand side of the kloof between "triangular overhang" and "vegetated grey face" (see map), directly below a prominent skyline ridge.

  1. 30m 15 Climb the small open book to the left of a prominent recess and continue up the crack at the apex of the recess to a stance on a good ledge.

  2. 30m 10 Ascend the grey face to a good ledge with a tree directly below the rib.

  3. 45m 15 Move left of the small tree and ascend the steep ramp until it is possible to move right onto the ridge. Climb the ridge to the top.

FA: A. Wilson, G. Graafland & J. de Groot, 1983

1 13 25m
2 14 25m

The climb is situated on the right extremity of the BABY FACE buttress. Walk 10m right from the start of BOUNCING BABY around a bulge to an obvious recess.

  1. 25m 13 Climb the corner/recess to a small overhang. Move left onto wall. Climb this to big ledge. Walk right for 3m to tree belay.

  2. 25m 14 Move right for 5m past line of trees above. Climb centre of face to top. (The centre section of this face becomes rather thin halfway up and can be avoided by moving right or left.)

FA: Urike Kiefer & K. van Graan, 2007

1 15 27m
2 17 25m

The route takes the very steep chimney/recess in the middle of the buttress that lies 45m upstream of the water pipe which hangs down the krantz. Three trees grow out of the chimney in the lower 12m. Scramble 20m up the side of the kloof to the foot of the buttress.

  1. 27m 15 Climb the chimney/recess to just above the ripple-marked overhang 17m up. Traverse rightwards across the slab above the overhang then climb diagonally rightwards to a good stance 7m above.

  2. 25m 17 Climb the corner above to the overhang 7m up. Hand-traverse right to gain the ledge above (crux). Climb the face above moving to its right edge after a short distance.

FA: Clive Ward, Greg Moseley & D. Peters, 1979

1 15 35m
2 13 20m

The climb goes up the steep face 5m downstream of BOUNCING BABY.

  1. 35m 15 Start on the left of a 6m high pinnacle. Climb the recess past the right-hand side of the big overhang. Follow the corner to a flaky overhang. Ascend the left-hand face to the overhang above. Traverse right to tree and belay.

  2. 20m 13 Traverse 3m left (back) into the recess and climb the recess past the left-hand side of the overhang. Climb the face above to the top.

FA: Eckhart Druschke, R. Druschke & H. Vogl, 1979

1 17 23m
2 13 30m

The climb goes up the left-hand side of the buttress which lies 45m upstream of the water pipe which hangs down the krantz. Start 15m left of BOUNCING BABY in a small defined corner.

  1. 23m 17 Climb in the corner until the rock bulges and overhangs slightly. Traverse right on a handrail running out to the edge of the corner. Move up a small face on the outside edge 3m and traverse left back into the top of the corner. Continue up to a good ledge and tree belay.

  2. 30m 13 Above and slightly to one side of the belay is a break bearing diagonally right in a series of steps. Move up diagonally right over these steps then traverse rightwards to a short chimney. Climb straight up to the top.

FA: D. Peters & Clive Ward, 1979

1 17 23m
2 17 30m

The climb goes up the left-hand side of the buttress which lies 45m upstream of the water pipe which hangs down the krantz. Start 15m left of BOUNCING BABY in a small defined corner.

  1. 23m 17 Climb in the corner until the rock bulges and overhangs slightly. Traverse right on a handrail running out to the edge of the corner. Move up a small face on the outside edge 3m and traverse left back into the top of the corner. Continue up to a good ledge and tree belay.

  2. 30m 17 From the belay ledge traverse left 2m metres then move up and right to gain the start of the obvious crack. Ascend directly up the crack to the top.

FA: A.M. Maddison & A. Mercer, 1983

1 18 23m
2 16 20m
3 14 10m

2 meters to the right of FINGER THING is a vertical crack line that tends right to a small roof at 10 meters

  1. 23m 18 Climb the crack and surmount the roof (crux). Continue up the crack to its end, then straight up the face above to the right hand end of a good ledge and tree belay (common with FINGER THING)

  2. 20m 16 From the right end of the stance, climb up tending right to a ledge at 10m. Traverse right 3m to avoid some dodgy large flakes. Climb vertically up through a chimney recess just left of a predominant nose (which can be seen from ground level) to a good ledge in front of a cubby hole.

  3. 10m 14 Climb straight up to the top

FA: C.H. Ziranek, J.C. Prinsloo & R. Korb, 2008

1 11 15m
2 14 35m

The climb goes up the downstream face of the buttress which lies 45m upstream of the small water pipe which runs down the krantz. 2,5m left of FINGER THING is a tree with a crack behind it which leads to a large ledge.

  1. 15m 11 Climb the crack behind the tree to a large ledge. Belay about 4m at the back of the ledge at some trees.

  2. 35m 14 Move right onto a face, keeping more or less in the middle. All the ledges slope left into a deceptively deep chimney. Avoid climbing too far left. Zig-zag up the face keeping more or less to the centre. 5m from the top traverse diagonally right to an arete on the right hand edge of the face. Continue to the top.

FA: D. Peters & Clive Ward, 1979

1 14 45m
2 13 15m

The climb starts where the water pipe running down from the top of the krantz reaches the floor, upstream of CADBURY DOUBLE THICK. The climb follows the arête just left of this pipe.

  1. 45m 14 Start in the cubby hole where the pipe comes down. Move out left onto arête . Follow this arête, keeping on the wall just to the left of it. Climb past two big flakes. Ascent steep crack on good holds to big ledge. The pipe crosses this ledge.

  2. 15m 13 Move 2m right from the right end of this ledge. Ascend wall above to top.

FA: Ulrike Kiefer & K. van Graan, 2007

1 15 15m
2 16 25m

Notes:

  1. Very little protection on pitch 2. Poor rock?

  2. The first pitch is considered by some to be 17.

  3. Also, whether it deserves any stars at all is debatable.

FA: Eckhart Druschke & R. Nienaber, 1979

1 19 20m
2 17 25m

Situated between HOMUNCULUS and CADBURY DOUBLE THICK.

  1. 20m 19 Left of the start of CADBURY DOUBLE THICK there is a diagonal traverse line running up to the left. Climb this to a small cubbyhole. Move up and around the edge to the same stance as HOMUNCULUS.

  2. 25m 17 Climb the arete and move over to the right side. Continue straight up to the top and belay as for CADBURY DOUBLE THICK.

FA: D. Hartley & Clive Ward, 1983

1 16 27m
2 16 22m

The climb is on the true right-hand side of the kloof, directly opposite the pipe drip, and goes up just to the left of the obvious arete which is bound on its upstream side by a smooth grey wall. The climb goes up the magnificent shiny white wall.

  1. 27m 16 Traverse left onto the face and move up past a tree at 12m in a crack to a grassy ledge leading off left. Climb diagonally right to a good stance on the arete.

  2. 22m 16 Climb straight up, keeping just to the left of the arete.

Note: To descend, walk down left for 20m to the obvious gully corner, down this short way, then move left, to scramble down the first 15m of pitch 1.

FA: K. Smith & D. Luyt, 1979

1 10 30m
2 10 45m

Note: Protection is sparse on pitch 1.

FA: C. & A. Fatti, 1981

1 13 45m
2 15 10m

The climb takes the steep gully mentioned in the description of the location of GOLDEN GOOSE (i.e. immediately underneath the second pitch of that route). A large tree marks the start of the route.

  1. 45m 13 Climb the gully/chimney direct to the large triangular overhang at the top of the crag, passing several large chockstones at 35m.

  2. 10m 15 From a high position, traverse left under the roof. 3m of hand/elbow traverse complete the climb.

Note: A pleasing climb on clean rock.

Variation:

  1. same

  2. 10m 13 From the belay, traverse off right, under the roof, using a large ledge, passing a small tree at the exit.

FA: L. Gardiner & Russ Dodding, 1983

The routelet takes the overlapping slab 10 metres upstream of GOLDEN GOOSE. Cairn.

  1. 15m 20 Follow the vague recess to below the bulge (about 5 m up). Pull left on small holds to the corner above. Follow this to the big ledge.

Note: Climbing on the crux is bold.

FA: S. Kelsey & T.P. Wilmot, 1989

Scramble halfway up the "steep gully blocked by a prominent triangular overhang at the top of the crag", right of GOLDEN GOOSE. Stance at a ledge and small tree, level with GOLDEN GOOSE'S mega-rail.

  1. 20m 23 Step left across the gully to gain the ledges at the base of a steep, obtuse-angled dihedral. Climb this to the top.

FA: K.M. Smith, 1987

Has the same start as GOLDEN GOOSE.

  1. 25m 23 Climb the crack as for the second pitch of GOLDEN GOOSE and continue up to the rail. Move out and left and then up to the top.

FA: M. Brunke & party, 1986

1 13 20m
2 17 17m
3 13 25m

The climb is situated on a sharp ridge with overhangs half-way up. The right-hand side of the sharp edge leads to a steep gully which is blocked by a prominent triangular overhang at the top of the crag. It is possible to scramble easily up the gully to the level of the top of the first pitch.

  1. 20m 13 Climb the face to the shallow open book which begins 5m up. Climb the open book to where the ridge overhangs. Traverse a few metres right to the other side of the ridge and descend slightly to a small stance.

  2. 17m 17 A smooth steep face leads up on the right-hand side of the ridge. Climb the face for 12m to where it begins to overhang. A good handrail leads off to the left. Handswing to the left and continue traversing to a very exposed two-man stance on the edge of the ridge.

  3. 25m 13 Move round the corner onto the exposed face. Traverse 5m left to the corner and follow it up the face to a little overhang. Continue up the face to the top. Variation:

  4. ?m 16 Instead of moving up right-hand side of slab, traverse left above roof and move up thin slab.

FA: C. Ward, D. Peters & Alvin Wood

FA: J. McLennan, C. Ward & D. Peters, 1981

1 19
2 26

Climbs the face to the left of GOLDEN GOOSE.

  1. 15m 19 Climb a vague groove up the face between FUM and GOLDEN GOOSE to a narrow ledge (sparse gear).

  2. 30m 26 Climb up on the left and then move right onto the face. Climb past a bolt on sidepulls and underclings to the roof (peg). Pull through and continue up the corner above to a tree.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & C. Curson, 1989

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & M. Hislop, 1992

The climb goes up the downstream face of the sharp-edged ridge taken by GOLDEN GOOSE. The climb finishes through the broken pointed overhangs at the top of the krantz.

  1. 30m 17 The climb starts with a mantleshelf 5m to the right of the back of the gully. Continue up the face to the left of the small but distinct corner until the rock steepens and changes colour to orange. Continue up the rounded rib with a vertical crack in it for a few metres until it is possible to make an awkward traverse a few metres right to gain the beginning of the crack which leads through the overhangs above. A small tree grows out of the crack a few metres above. Climb the crack to the top. It is possible to avoid the final steep few metres of the crack by traversing left across a sloping slab then up.

FA: C. Ward, Alvin Wood, D. Peters & J. McLennan, 1981

Located between FO and FUM.

  1. 35m 14 Climb the crack to the right of FOE to a tree. Follow the wall above into a recess and pull into the V-groove above. Ascend the right-hand groove to the top.

FA: Russ Dodding, 1986

The right crack line of the two mentioned in FIE is climbed. This crack lies in the corner between the back of the short gully and the downstream side of the short gully.

  1. 20m 11 Ascend the crack line. Good Climbing.

FA: J. McLennan, D. Peters & C. Ward, 1981

Just below the arete described in GOLDEN GOOSE there is a short gully. Two crack lines go up the face on the downstream side of the gully. This route generally follows the left-hand crack line.

  1. 25m 13 Climb the centre of the rib just to the left of the left crack until level with a tree on the face on the left. Move right to the crack and follow this to the top. Very good climbing.

FA: C. Ward, J. McLennan & D. Peters, 1981

This route is situated on the left-hand wall of the large recess and to the left of the routes FEE, FIE, FO and FUM. Scramble up about 6m to an obvious roof. The route takes the right-hand crack of a dual crack system which runs through the roof. The crux is getting past the roof, but good protection can be placed at the lip.

  1. 20m 20 Hand-jam strenuously through the roof and ascend for about 3m. Traverse left for about 4m to the corner. Move around the corner onto an exposed face, then diagonally left up the face to a cubby hole stance.

FA: K. Swanson & Paul Schlotfeldt, 1983

1 8 17m
2 11 18m

The climb goes up the corner 5m downstream of the gully where FIE, FO and FUM begin.

  1. 17m 8 Climb the corner to the comfortable ledge below the large overhang on the right (gully) side of the buttress.

  2. 20m 11 Climb the face on the right of the roof and traverse left to a big tree. Continue diagonally left to a big flake on the corner of the buttress. Surmount this and continue up parallel cracks to the top.

FA: J. McLennan & M. Romancia, 1981

1 12 25m
2 10 17m

This route starts on the front of the low buttress on the left of FEE, FIE, FO, FUM.

  1. 25m 12 Climb the recess to the left of the centre of the buttress to a good ledge (8m) (or climb the front of the buttress to the same ledge (13)). Continue straight up the obvious line to a stance below a left-slanting diagonal crack.

  2. 17m 10 Follow the line of the crack to the top of the buttress.

FA: B.R. de Villiers & Greg Moseley, 1979

1 13 20m
2 13 20m

Start about 20m downstream of the FEE, FIE, FO, FUM buttress in an open book recess with a large tree nearby.

  1. 20m 13 Climb up the open book to a ledge with a tree on it. Continue climbing up the corner on the left of the ledge to a wide crack. Follow the crack up to the top of a small pillar. Move right using a mantleshelf move to the ledge.

  2. 20m 13 Move up the crack system behind the ledge to a tree. Climb the face behind the tree, then continue up easier ground to a broad ledge. Scramble to the top.

FA: D. Margetts & N. Margetts, 1985

1 13 15m
2 15 15m

This climb starts about 3m to the right, and upstream of, PURPLE RAIN where the cliff takes a right angle turn. The climb starts on the nose just downstream of a prominent tree.

  1. 15m 13 Climb up the arete over a series of ledges, until you reach a large block to the right. Pass a tree on the left and follow the easy recess up to a comfortable ledge.

  2. 15m 15 Climb up the crack system above the ledge moving slightly left at the top to a good ledge. Scramble off rightwards.

FA: D. Margetts & N. Margetts, 1985

1 19 30m
2 17 30m

This climb starts about 50m upstream of LATE BREEZE on the left-hand side of a prominent overhang.

  1. 30m 19 Climb the ridge to the right of the prominent overhang. Keeping on the ridge move up until a traverse up left past a crack system is made into the prominent open book with large tree in It. Climb the open book past the tree up to the overhang with the crack running through it. Surmount the overhang (crux) and continue up to a good ledge.

  2. 30m 17 Climb up the crack passing through the bulging face directly behind the ledge. Continue up to a large ledge with a crack at its rear. Climb this crack to a bush, continue up the recess above.

FA: D. Margetts & N. Margetts, 1985

1 20 18m
2 18 18m
3 17 30m

This climb is the direct start to PURPLE RAIN. It takes the impressive overhanging recess with the large tree half way up to an overhang, 25m upstream and on the same side of the kloof as LATE BREEZE.

  1. 18m 20 Climb up a short slab to the overhang. Move through the overhangs using 3 fixed pegs for protection. Continue up the open book above to belay in the tree.

  2. 18m 18 Climb up the open book to a crack in the overhang. Move through the overhang to a ledge.

  3. 30m 17 Moving slightly left on the ledge, climb the crack through the bulge onto a large ledge. Move right to the arete and climb this to the top.

Notes:

  1. Pitch 2 and the first part of pitch 3 are shared with PURPLE RAIN.

  2. Pitches 1 & 2 can be combined.

  3. Before he made the Statue of Liberty disappear, David Copperfield first practised (very successfully) on the pegs on this route.

FA: D. Margetts & N. Margetts, 1985

1 20 25m
2 10 15m
3 17 15m

This climb is situated just downstream from BROTHERS IN ARMS on a buttress just as you come out of the BROTHERS IN ARMS enclave.

  1. 25m 20 Climb up the middle of the face (sparse protection) with the crux getting off the ground. Continue up the face avoiding a ledge on the right arete. Reach the ledge with a tree and continue up the dihedral to a small overhang. Exit to the left and scramble to a ledge.

  2. 15m 10 Climb back to the left of the large overhang. Traverse right onto the lip and climb the arete to a large ledge (Camp Six).

  3. 15m 17 Traverse left from the stance. Move up to a short open book below the overhang. Continue up to an overhang. Move left through the overhang and follow the face to the top (good exposure).

Notes:

  1. The first pitch provides good climbing with limited protection.

  2. The stance on top of pitch 2 is very similar to Camp 6 on the nose of EL CAPITAN, YOSEMITE.

  3. A 3 stars climb can be created by climbing the first pitch of MORE GOOFY THAN MICKEY MOUSE and then finishing up pitches 2 & 3 of CHARGE OF THE LIGHT BRIGADE.

FA: G. Margetts, D. Margetts & A. Mercer, 1986

1 20 25m
2 17 40m

This climb is situated just downstream from BROTHERS IN ARMS on a buttress just as you come out of the BROTHERS IN ARMS enclave.

  1. 25m 20 Climb up the middle of the face (sparse protection) with the crux getting off the ground. Continue up the face avoiding a ledge on the right arete. Reach the ledge with a tree and continue up the dihedral to a small overhang. Exit to the left and scramble to a ledge. 40m 17 Instead of moving right at the overhang, climb straight up the face past an overlap to a ledge. Move left into a downstream facing openbook. Climb this, moving out left near top past a tree then up short face to top of crag.

FA: D. Margetts, G. Margetts & A. Mercer, 1986

This climb starts 35m upstream of LATE BREEZE (5m upstream of SUGAR MAN) in a prominent recess.

  1. 25m 12 Climb the recess up a series of steps to a short dual crack system. The right crack has a small nettle bush in it. Climb the left crack to a small ledge. Continue up the recess to where the crack steepens. By using either hand holds on the sides of the crack, or jams in the crack, ascend to a good ledge.

FA: D. Margetts & N. Margetts, 1985

This climb starts about 30m upstream of LATE BREEZE in a shallow open book with a crack running up it (Note - a crack system 1 to 2 m upstream does not constitute the climb).

  1. 25m 17 Climb the shallow open book to a small ledge passing a wedged block (crux). Continue up the crack system directly below a small overhang. An attractive layback crack slightly to the right is a feature of the upper parts of the crack system. Exit left to avoid the overhang onto a good ledge with tree belay. Scramble up the easy rock to the top of the kloof.

FA: D. Margetts & N. Margetts, 1985

This climb is situated about 10m upstream of LATE BREEZE and about 3m downstream of SUGERMAN. (The next crack downstream from SUGERMAN.)

  1. 25m 16 Ascend the crack 3m to the first ledge (small tree). Continue up easier ground to a small ledge and tree. Ascend the finger crack past another small tree onto a good ledge. Moving leftwards 1 to 2m, climb the face to the top.

Note: A pleasant climb, well protected and on good rock.

FA: G. Margetts, D. Margetts, A. Mercer & T. Snyders, 1986

This climb ascends a fine crack on the wall just upstream of LATE BREEZE, between the arete (DINGBATS HIMALAYAN EPIC) and COLD FACT.

  1. 30m 20 Ascend the steep face to a good ledge (19 5m) (small wire protection). Continue up easier ground to a ledge and small tree just 1 to 2m left of a larger tree. Climb the steep face above (crux). Follow easier rock to a large ledge and belay.

Note: Technically stimulating moves on good rock.

FA: D. Margetts, G. Margetts & G. Winfield

This climb ascends the arete just upstream of LATE BREEZE.

  1. 30m 15 Starting just upstream of LATE BREEZE, climb the arete.

Notes:

  1. A pleasant climb on good rock but protection sparse lower down.

FA: G. Winfield, D. Margetts & G. Margetts, 1986

1 15 25m
2 13 20m

The route lies on the first big buttress upstream of the grey grassy slabs. The route starts in the obvious polished black corner (the second corner from the downstream side of the buttress).

  1. 25m 15 Climb the open book to a tree belay on the large ledge.

  2. 20m 13 Climb the crack system up the buttress slightly left of the stance either breaking left to reach the tree belay or continuing up the broken rock to reach a stance on the perched block on top.

FA: E. Druschke & R. Nienaber, 1979

1 22 40m
2 17 15m

Start directly below slab 2m to left of the start of LATE BREEZE.

  1. 40m 22 Move up to the start of the slab where a horizontal crack is encountered, Continue up 4m (20) to another resting spot. (This section is shared with PUNCH LINE.) Then continue straight up avoiding the arete to the hollow block. Move up further rightwards to a jug handhold at the start of the fine horizontal crack. Traverse right 4m (across slab) to the base of the prominent crack line (crux). Climb this to the top exiting slightly left to a ledge and tree belay.

  2. 15m 17 Climb directly above the stance to the base of an overhang, pull through the overhang (runner in crack to left). Continue up to the top of the block.

Note: There are various ways to cross from the left side of the slab to the right: a. Hands about 2m below the rail 21/22. b. Hands about 4m below the rail 20. It makes sense to place the nut for the original traverse before down climbing to this height. c. Climb up until hands are about 2-3m above the rail, then traverse right 21. The grades are somewhat reach dependent.

FA: D. Margetts & N. Margetts, 1985

Ascends the fine slab that forms the left-hand side of the LATE BREEZE corner. Start 3m left of LATE BREEZE. Cairn.

  1. 35m 20 Ascend a leftward-leaning crack system until it is possible to step right on to the slab proper, above a small overlap. Protected by friends in the horizontal crack, make hard moves to a good resting ledge. Continue up in the same line, following a shallow recess 2m from the arete, until level with a hollow-sounding jammed block. From here traverse left on to the arete (crux of PICK OF PUNCH) and climb the last few metres of that route.

FA: Russ Dodding & Stewart Middlemiss, 1985

1 15 23m
2 17 23m

Take the arete some 5m downstream of LATE BREEZE.

  1. 23m 15 Climb the buttress, keeping to the crest, to a ledge with blocks. (There are easier variations to the left.)

  2. 23m 17 Climb the left side of the crest for 5m, move awkwardly to the right side of the crest and continue up to a large ledge. A further 7m of climbing leads to the top.

FA: D. Cheesmond & D. Peters, 1979

1 17 30m
2 9 15m

The route takes a very shallow open book to begin. It starts 5m upstream of HAAK-EN-STEEK and climbs the centre of the face until gradually forced left by the roof to join HAAK-EN-STEEK above the tree - Cairn.

  1. 30m 17 Start at the base of the open book. Tricky and thin to start. Climb the steps above until the roof is encountered. Take a stance just above the tree. The crux is to mantleshelf up to the stance.

  2. 15m 9 Finish up the groove as for HAAK-EN-STEEK. Take a comfortable stance on top.

Note: Protection is thin at start, adequate thereafter.

FA: U. Kiefer & T.P. Wilmot, 1994

The route is on the first buttress upstream of the grassy broken grey slabs, on the right side of the kloof. The route follows the first obvious corner on the left-hand side of the buttress (downstream side).

  1. 45m 9 Climb in the corner or just to the right of it. The pitch may be conveniently split.

FA: D.Peters, J. McLennan & C. Ward, 1981

1 7 20m
2 7 10m
3 7 15m

Begin just left of HAAK-EN-STEEK. From the second grey grassy sloping slab walk onto the broad ledge on the right about 15m above the stream.

  1. 20m 7 Move up 1 m, traverse to the right 2 or 3m to a blunt nose. Climb up this nose 11 m, move slightly left on broad ledge and up another 4m onto the big ledge.

  2. 10m 7 Climb over the branches of a stamvrug tree to the right into a chimney which is climbed for 5m, and emerge right onto a good ledge.

  3. 15m 7 Start at the right end of a ledge climbing up over two blocks. Move left towards the chimney and climb up the blocks to the top.

FA: R. Forsyth & M. Forsyth, 1980

1 21 23m
2 17 20m

Starts approximately 20m downstream of LATE BREEZE. A bolt about 8m up marks the face that is climbed. The climb starts at the base of the face to the left of the corner with a tree in it. SOUNDS OF SILENCE ascends the crack around the corner on the left.

  1. 23m 21 Climb directly up to the bolt. Continue past the bolt up the face, then move left onto the arete to a small ledge. Climb the short steep arete to the large ledge shared with SOUNDS OF SILENCE.

  2. 20m 17 Move to the right past a tree. Climb the arete and face to the top of the crag.

FA: D. Margetts, Martin Seegers, Tanja Truter, A. Margetts & E. Boyes, 1988

1 20 30m
2 19 30m

This route starts about 50m downstream of the start of THE THREAD. It ascends the crack around the corner on the left of WHO WAS THAT MASKED MAN. To reach the start, climb a large boulder to the flat, sloping ledge at the bottom of the descent ramp on the true right of the kloof.

  1. 30m 20 Climb the vague crack line for 7m and then move slightly left. Continue up past a number of small ledges to a broad ledge with tree belay.

  2. 30m 19 Move up and left to an open book. Climb the open book to easier rock. Continue up the easy face to the top of crag.

FA: D. Margetts & Martin Seegers, 1988

1 8 18m
2 10 14m
3 8 21m

The climb starts at a large tree at a large rock platform at the foot of the buttress immediately upstream of the scramble descent route. It is a very direct route, straight up the face, 16m to the left of the corner, starting at a cairn.

  1. 18m 8 Climb directly in line with the small tree on a small ledge, do a layback and mantleshelf move, and belay on a tree in a recess on a large, wide ledge.

  2. 14m 10 Climb 3m up to a large ledge, and then 7m up a wide chimney, the top of which is very smooth and strenuous.

  3. 21m 8 Traverse 10m to a corner on the right, initially off-balance, then climb up a steep corner on good holds.

Note: A very pleasant and direct route on good rock.

FA: H.M. Winder & A. Wepner, 1983

1 20 25m
2 20 20m

This climb ascends the steep face situated on the left after one has descended the ramp descent (steep grassy sloping slabs). The start is found about 4m to the right of the climb THE SERPENT and about 10m downstream of RECUPERATION.

  1. 25m 20 Climb directly up to the bulge where a fixed piton protects the crux. Continue up a direct line to a tree belay.

  2. 20m 20 Move up to a higher ledge. Continue up the face (thin) to beneath the obvious overhang. Pull through the overhang (crux). Climb easier rock to the top.

FA: A. Lainis, D. Margetts & G. Margetts, 1987

1 15 25m
2 16 15m

This climb starts downstream of PICK OF PUNCH and ascends a recess (open book) up a face on the left side as one descends the ramp descent route with the large overhang near the top.

  1. 25m 15 Climb the open book to a small ledge on the left. Continue up the face to a large ledge.

  2. 15m 16 Climb the face above the stance, first moving slightly left then tending right near the top.

Note: The name of the route is derived from a large snake seen at the base of the climb.

FA: D. Margetts & V. Nienhaber, 1987

1 13 10m
2 12 20m

Starts to the right of ICEPIG i.e. at the base of the ramp with the large overhang.

  1. 10m 13 Traverse right from the ramp to a good ledge. Climb the corner with the crack on the left side of the ledge to a broad ledge. (Alternatively - climb the easier crack/chimney around the corner to the right, however, it is loose.)

  2. 20m 12 Move along the ledge to the base of the chimney. Climb the face and chimney to the top of the crag.

Note: Good climb for beginners.

FA: D. Margetts, Martin Seegers, Tanja Truter, A. Mercer & E. Boyes, 1988

Ascends the face just to the right (looking up) of the large overhang at the top of the ramp descent gully on the true right of the kloof.

  1. 35m 16 Traverse right from the ramp to the base of the face onto a ledge with a crack at its rear. Climb up the face moving slightly right to the base of a dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a tree. Move left onto a slab and continue to the top of the crag, bypassing an overhang.

FA: Martin Seegers, D. Margetts, E. Boyes & A. Mercer, 1988

Just upstream of MARK THE RIPPLES is a short buttress.

  1. 15m 19 Start on the downstream facing side of the buttress. Climb a crack system up to a large sloping ledge.

FA: D. Margetts, A. McCann, P. McCann & Bonnie

  1. 25m 14 Climb the face and then the crack left of BILIARY KILLS.

FA: B. Schuman, D. Margetts & G. Devine, 1993

Start just to the right of SNACK where there is a small red-brown corner about 10m above the kloof floor with a roof above it.

  1. 30m 11 Climb the face 4m right of SNACK. Continue up in the corner, move over the overhang and traverse right onto a slab. Continue straight up the slab and the wall above to the top.

FA: A. Fatti, C. Fatti & C. Ward, 1981

Start 10m upstream from MARK THE RIPPLES where there is a small recess and crack running up to some overhangs.

  1. 35m 13 Climb the crack to a slab and move left to a flake leaning against the face. Climb this and step around right below a large overhang and move up slightly and traverse diagonally up right under the overhang (tree growing from crack). Turn the overhang at the extreme right-hand end. Continue up the crack and climb the fault line to the top.

FA: A. Fatti, C. Fatti & C. Ward

1 15 20m
2 17 30m

The climb starts 5m right of MARK THE RIPPLES ascending the face and then the overhang mentioned under SNACK.

  1. 20m 15 Climb the face to the left of the flake leaning against the face. Belay at the flake.

  2. 30m 17 Climb up the flake and open book passing a small tree to gain the base of the overhang. Exit left and climb the easier rock to top.

FA: A.M. Maddison, A. Mercer & D. Margetts, 1985

1 11 25m
2 9 20m
3 12 25m

Start on the true right-hand side of the kloof, opposite RIPPLE MARK. The climb begins on a polished sloping black slab at ground level and initially goes up a smooth black corner which overhangs 30m up.

  1. 25m 11 Climb a recess with some cracks higher up to a small stance. (At the stance be careful of large loose blocks, particularly if used as a belay point.)

  2. 20m 9 Traverse diagonally left 20m to a large platform stance above a tree.

  3. 25m 12 Climb a clean pleasant face to the top, with a steeper grassy portion at the finish (crux).

Direct finish Variation:

3 25m 15 Ascend the recess on the left face above via a small tree to the overhang. Surmount the overhang on its right. Follow the recess to top.

FA: C. Fatti, P. Kaiser, S. Gans & I. Kelman, 1979

1 11 25m
2 9 20m
3 15 25m

Start on the true right-hand side of the kloof, opposite RIPPLE MARK. The climb begins on a polished sloping black slab at ground level and initially goes up a smooth black corner which overhangs 30m up.

  1. 25m 11 Climb a recess with some cracks higher up to a small stance. (At the stance be careful of large loose blocks, particularly if used as a belay point.)

  2. 20m 9 Traverse diagonally left 20m to a large platform stance above a tree.

  3. 25m 15 Ascend the recess on the left face above via a small tree to the overhang. Surmount the overhang on its right. Follow the recess to top.

FA: R. Druschke, E. Druschke & H. Vogl, 1979

1 15 18m
2 19 35m

The route starts immediately left of MARK THE RIPPLES, passing through the square-cut overhang above.

  1. 18m 15 Ascend the steep, brown, fluted rock immediately left of the start of MARK THE RIPPLES. (Small friends for protection.) Bridge up until able to reach a side-pull then move up to the ledge above.

  2. 35m 19 Climb the crack system to below the roof, where good protection may be arranged. Exit through the crack on the upstream side by layback/jamming to gain easier ground above.

Variation: From beneath the roof it is possible to exit on the downstream side. Using a small foothold on the nose, move left onto easier ground.

FA: A.M. Maddison & A. Mercer, 1985

1 11 28m
2 15 30m

The route starts immediately left of MARK THE RIPPLES, passing through the square-cut overhang above.

  1. 18m 15 Ascend the steep, brown, fluted rock immediately left of the start of MARK THE RIPPLES. (Small friends for protection.) Bridge up until able to reach a side-pull then move up to the ledge above.

  2. 35m 19 Climb the crack system to below the roof, where good protection may be arranged. Exit through the crack on the upstream side by layback/jamming to gain easier ground above. Variation: From beneath the roof it is possible to exit on the downstream side. Using a small foothold on the nose, move left onto easier ground.

FA: A. Fatti, C. Fatti & C. Ward, 1981

1 15 20m
2 18 20m

Left of APPIE DOCTOR, halfway up the crag a V-shaped groove may be seen. The route ascends the crack below this to gain the groove. Begin 5m right of FIVE ROSES (tiny cave at bed level.

  1. 20m 15 Ascend the open book for 10m, move left onto face and up to ledge below crack.

  2. 20m 18 Climb the crack to gain the base of the V-groove. Ascend the groove to the top.

FA: A. Mercer, D. Margetts & A. Maddison, 1985

1 30m
2 14 25m

From the meeting spot, walk about 100m upstream until a break in the pipe is reached, just below ZIMBABWE FACE. 20m above this, on the true right, there is a steep gully up which one can scramble to reach the top. Just upstream of this again, there is a small amphitheatre, with a small cave at ground level. Scramble up 10m to the start of the open slabs. In the corner on the right, there is a continuously overhanging corner. Left of the corner, there is a slightly on-angle slab, with two steps of roofs. The route takes the obvious crack line through these roofs.

  1. 30m A1 There is a convenient ledge to belay from, belay in the crack on the right-hand end of the ledge, but start climbing 3m left of this. Easy nutting and solid hooking up the slab, until a sketchy free move finds one on a narrow, glassy, sloping foot-ledge just below the first roof. A solid cam in the lip, followed by a few hook moves brings one to the second roof. An awkward move onto a broad ledge is the end of the aiding, and easy free follows straight up to a huge slab-ledge, with superb pro.

  2. 25m 14 Follow the slab above the ledge to the trees and blocks at the top.

Notes:

  1. Descend by abseiling the second pitch, then scrambling easily left into the gully mentioned earlier, and thence to the bottom.

  2. A short, fat "universal" or "stake" piton would be useful on the initial slab on the first pitch to provide protection for the hook moves.

FA: D. Morgan & M. Pretorius, 1998

1 19 35m
2 17 35m

The route starts at the tiny cave at bed level marked on the map just downstream of APPIE DOCTOR, taking a line from the cave to the top of the overhang above.

  1. 35m 19 From the cave ascend easily to below a shallow open book. Climb the open book until able to move right awkwardly onto a small sloping ledge. Continue up the face to a ledge below a slanting dihedral.

  2. 35m 17 From the ledge move right (1m) and then ascend the arete. Climb awkwardly at first to gain a shallow open book. Ascend this until directly below the overhanging crack. Pull through the overhang on excellent jams to the top.

Note: It is possible to omit the final overhang by traversing left, where the grade of the pitch falls to 15.

FA: A.M. Maddison & A.J. Mercer, 1985

This climb starts on the true right on the upstream side of the gully leading up to the climb ONE FOR THE POT.

  1. 40m 17 Climb to the base of short buttress. Climb the break to sloping slab (crux). Continue up the slab to a sloping ledge. Manteshelf onto ledge and climb face above to top of crag.

FA: Ken Thrash, D. Margetts & A. Margetts, 2008

This climb takes the break which starts at the top of a short gully on the true right, just upstream of SOFTY. Scramble up the gully past slab on the left (STONERS DELIGHT) and buttress on right with crack in it (CAREBEAR SURPRISE) to its highest point. It starts higher than the surrounding climbs.

  1. 40m 15 Climb up to the first overhang. Continue up easy rock to open book. Continue up, moving left to top of crag.

FA: A. Maddison, D. Margetts & A. Mercer, 1985

This climb ascends the face and corner on the gully leading up to the climb ONE FOR THE POT. It is just upstream of SOFTY.

  1. 30m 13 Start on the right hand side of the slab. Move onto slab and across it to the upstream facing corner. Ascend corner to a point where one can climb a short recess on the left hand wall. Climb recess to ledge. Continue moving left and up to top of crag.

FA: D. Margetts & A. Margetts

This climb starts right of SOFTY.

  1. 30m 16 Climb the face to start, then the recess to top of crag.

FA: N. Margetts & D. Margetts, 2000

1 18 23m
2 13 15m

This climb starts almost opposite GUNSIGHT in the centre of a buttress where a root (about 8cm in diameter) from a tree half way up the face passes into the ground.

  1. 23m 18 Climb the recess with the root in it until the tree lies to ones left. Make an awkward move rightwards to below an overhang with a crack through it. Climb the overhang (crux) to a good ledge.

  2. 15m 13 Moving slightly left above the ledge climb the recess and crack system to the top.

Note: The crux on pitch 1 can be avoided by traversing right lower down and climbing easier rock to the ledge.

FA: D. Margetts & A. Mercer, 1985

1 19 30m
2 13 12m

This climb is situated on the buttress just upstream of the attractive face with KB4 and ABSENTIA on it. The climb follows the downstream arete with a large tree projecting out from the base of the climb. A prominent gully with a cave recess is found just downstream of the climb.

  1. 30m 19 Climb the short face with roots to the right. Follow the open book moving right when the face steepens, continue up to a small overhang. Move left and up to a block. Continue up the arete using lugs (layback holds) until another small overhang is reached. Move left again and pull through on good holds. Continue up to small ledge.

  2. 12m 13 Move up to the rail, then leftward to a small stance, and then traverse right to the crack system. Follow this to top.

Note: A good clean enjoyable route.

FA: C. Ward, D. Margetts & R. Brand, 1986

1 19 30m
2 21 12m

This climb is situated on the buttress just upstream of the attractive face with KB4 and ABSENTIA on it. The climb follows the downstream arete with a large tree projecting out from the base of the climb. A prominent gully with a cave recess is found just downstream of the climb.

  1. 30m 19 Climb the short face with roots to the right. Follow the open book moving right when the face steepens, continue up to a small overhang. Move left and up to a block. Continue up the arete using lugs (layback holds) until another small overhang is reached. Move left again and pull through on good holds. Continue up to small ledge.

  2. 21 Move up to the rail, then leftward to a small stance. After the small ledge, instead of moving right, move left to a short face and overlap. Climb this into a short break up to a ledge.

FA: Ken Thrash & D. Margetts, 2008

Climb the recess/gully between ZIMBABWE FACE and HIGH RISE - 30m.

FA: D. Margetts & G. Devine, 1993

1 14 20m
2 16 15m

This climb ascends the attractive face opposite PISTOL. The climb starts where a tree grows ± 0,5m from the base of the cliff, and several large flat boulders occur. (This is the same start as KB4).

  1. 20m 14 Climb the face tending slightly rightwards to a ledge with a tree in it.

  2. 15m 16 After moving slightly upwards above the tree step left onto the face. Ascend the face following the crack system to the top (good climbing)

Notes:

  1. Protection on pitch 2 is sparse.

  2. A three star route is created if the first pitch of ABSENT-TEA is combined with the second pitch of ZIMBABWE FACE. Instead of moving left after the first pitch of ABSENT-TEA, move slightly right and continue up the face to join ZIMBABWE FACE.

FA: D. Margetts & A. Mercer, 1985

1 17 17m
2 16 15m

This climb starts 5m downstream of ZIMBABWE FACE in a smooth sided shallow open book, and passes through the overhang above.

  1. 17m 17 Climb the shallow open book (small nuts useful). Move slightly rightwards at the top of the open book to a good ledge. Belay at the right end of ledge where good nut placements are found.

  2. 15m 16 Climb up the face to beneath the overhang with the crack passing through it, pull through the overhang and ascend to the top.

Note: A good abseil tree can be found at the top of pitch 2.

FA: D. Margetts & A. Mercer, 1985

The climb starts in the base of the recess 4m to the right of KB1 (cairn). There is a rhombohedral overhang about 20m up.

  1. 38m 18 Climb the recess past small trees to the overhang. Pull through the notch in the overhang to the ledge. Traverse 1,5m left under the second overhang, up the face for 3m and back right into the recess above the second overhang. Climb the recess and rib above to the top.

Note: Climbing through the second overhang was done by the second at 19.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, A. Maddison & D. Margetts, 1985

10m up from KB THREE on the same side (cairn).

  1. 45m 11 Start at a high point behind a large block. Climb up diagonally left to the obvious break. Move up to the easy ground in the gully. Climb the good jamming crack on the left wall.

FA: N. Cleaver & C. Ward, 1982

1 17 25m
2 13 15m

On the left corner of the chimney containing KB3 is an open book containing a substantial root for much of its length. The route follows the open book to the top.

  1. 25m 17 Ascend the open book to the top, moving left at the overhang (at mid-height) then back right again.

  2. 15m 13 Ascend the steep wall above, moving right round the overhang and up to the stance.

FA: A.M. Maddison, D. Margetts & Stewart Middlemiss, 1985

This route takes the steep face 5m to the right of and upstream of the climb THE SQUAT PINNACLE.

  1. 30m 18 Climb the easy face up to the overhang, move through the overhang on the left side (crux). Continue up the face to a good ledge (avoiding easy open book to the left). Climb the recess/chimney at the back of the ledge to the overhang, surmount the overhang and continue to the top.

Note: This climb can be split into 2 pitches.

FA: D. Margetts, A. Maddison & Stewart Middlemiss, 1985

Start 3m to the right of the chimney with the chockstone i.e. 1 m to left of the large tree.

  1. 20m 14 Climb the series of short open books leading right to the larger smoothed walled open book at the top, climb this to a large ledge.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1985

15m up from KB TWO on the same side of the kloof at a corner (cairn).

  1. 30m 10 Climb the well defined chimney to a good ledge. Scramble up to the top.

FA: N. Cleaver & C. Ward, 1982

1 15 25m
2 9 15m

This route starts 5m upstream of KB1 on the right side of a squat pinnacle.

  1. 25m 15 Climb the right arete of the pinnacle Continue up a short open book avoiding a tree (the climb is 13 if the tree is used). Continue up a pleasant face to the top of the pinnacle.

  2. 15m 9 Climb up the pleasant face behind the pinnacle to the right of a grassy recess.

FA: D. Margetts, A. Margetts, A. Maddison, C. Ward, H. Bolton & R. Brand, 1985

10m up from KB ONE on the same side (cairn).

  1. 45m 10 Climb the wall right of the short chockstoned chimney to a good ledge. Climb straight up to a small recess. Move out right and up a short wall to the top.

This climb can be split into two pitches if required.

FA: C. Ward & N. Cleaver, 1982

1 20 35m
2 8 15m

The route takes the face of the squat pinnacle mentioned in KB 1, slightly downstream from PISTOL, on the opposite side. Start 3m upstream from KB1.

  1. 35m 20 Ascend the face directly below the pinnacle easily to a ledge at mid-height. From the ledge move directly up the face of the pinnacle (crux). Holds improve towards the top.

  2. 15m 8 Ascend the pleasant face to the top, or scramble off to the left.

FA: A.M. Maddison, D. Margetts & C. Ward, 1985

On the same side of the kloof and 10m upstream from NORTH AMERICA WALL. On the wall right of the recess (cairn).

  1. 50m 11 Climb up left of the fault line to a squat pinnacle. Climb past on the left and continue up to the top. The climb can be split into two pitches at the pinnacle.

FA: C. Ward & N. Cleaver, 1982

This climb is situated 10m upstream of NORTH AMERICAN WALL.

  1. 30m 19 Climb the crack to the right of the large cave overhang until forced right to easier ground, continue up to a small tree. Make a difficult traverse 2m left over lip of overhang to a small stance at base of recess (crux). Follow recess to top of buttress with difficult moves at 3m and 6m.

Note: A good route with sustained climbing from the traverse line onwards. Adequate protection on small nuts.

FA: C. Ward, D. Margetts, A. Mercer, N. Margetts & Charles Edelstein, 1986

Upstream from ROAMER there is a large recess capped by overhanging rock. Start on a buttress left of the recess, behind a tree 4m out from the recess (cairn).

  1. 45m 15 Climb straight up the wall over a little bulge to a large ledge. Continue on the right, right of the large root, to the top of the crag.

FA: N. Cleaver & C. Ward, 1982

Take the slim groove 5m right of CIRCLE OF HANDS. Step off the tree and climb the groove direct.

FA: M. Haffner, 1986

Starts 3m to the right of CIRCLE OF HANDS. (i.e. 3m to the left of WAVING NOT DROWNING).

  1. 25m 20 Start directly below the small overhang at 4m. Climb straight up (peg and rope sling for protection). Follow the crack above to ledge, thence move up the wall above, exiting to the left of the small overhang at the top.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1986

This route is situated on buttress about 20m upstream of the meetspot, and takes the obvious crack straight out of the streambed. About 8m away from the rock face is a large tree (unique in Kranskloof) with a very thick trunk.

  1. 30m 20 Climb the break on brownish rock to a small bulge about 6m up. Continue up the book above and exit right and then straight up to a tree .

FA: M. Brunke, Steven Mallory, George Mallory, K. Smith, J. Brown & D. van der Riet, 1985

1 19 15m
2 17 30m

This route starts 2 to 3m downstream from CIRCLE OF HANDS at the deepest part of a small cave.

  1. 15m 19 Ascend the overhanging corner on the left of a small cave just downstream of CIRCLE OF HANDS. Continue up the short face above the corner to easier ground.

  2. 30m 17 Move left to a short chimney on the left side of a steep face. After climbing up a few meters move right onto the arete and continue up to a ledge below the final steep face. Climb this final face tending slightly leftwards.

FA: D. Margetts & A. Mercer, 1987

Some 20m upstream from the meet point is a small undercut buttress abutting the main kloof wall. This buttress and the wall above provide 30m of nondescript grade 10 climbing. The small buttress may be surmounted via a grade 6 pitch behind a tree to the left of a recess or via harder pitches on the left and right sides of the buttress.

  1. ?m 10 Above the small buttress there is a stepped recess which is climbed with the aid of a 2m pinnacle in its second, or to the right lies a pleasant grade 6 face with a series of sloping ledges. Both pitches end on a wide sloping ledge. The way off lies up a short grey recess with two tricky grade 10 moves left onto a miniature grey slab.

FA: Miss T. Wulffers, R. Fox & H. Winder, 1981

1 20 10m
2 8 20m

Climbs the steep face just to the right of CANDLE IN THE WIND.

  1. 10m 20 Ascend the steep face with the sloping ledge at its base. Avoid the corner on the right and the arete to the left.

  2. 20m 8 Climb the easy face above to the top of crag.

Note: On the opening ascent a micro wire was pre-placed on the 1st pitch.

FA: D. Margetts, 1988

This climb starts just downstream of ROAMER (i.e. about 10 to 15m upstream of the lower meet spot). It climbs the open book just to the right of a gully recess.

  1. 30m 15 Climb the open book (recess) using the slab on left. Continue up to a ledge with a small tree. Continue up past the tree by moving left onto the slab. Climb up to a small grassy ledge with a corner above. Up the corner and continue up the open book to the top of the crag.

Note: Can be divided into two pitches.

FA: A. Mercer & D. Margetts

Located in a gully about 20 to 30m upstream of the lower campsite. The route pulls through the overhang at the back of the gully. The gully is about 20-30m downstream of CIRCLE OF HANDS.

  1. 20m 22 Climb up to and pull through the overhang on the right hand side (crux). Continue up the face to a small tree, then make a tricky traverse to the right for two to three metres. Climb the face above to a stance and scramble to the top.

Note: This climb bites early!

FA: Martin Seegers & D. Margetts, 1987

This route starts just upstream of the lower meet site (about 10 to 15m) i.e. downstream of ROAMER.

  1. 30m 11 Ascend the slab to the left of a gully for about 15m, up to a small ledge. Traverse right for 1 to 2m to the arete. Climb this, continuing up easier ground to the top.

FA: D. Margetts & V. Nienhaber, 1987

This climb ascends the overhanging face right of BONNIE, just above the meet spot.

  1. 30m 17 Start directly below the overhang. Climb the face directly to overhang, and pull through to a large ledge. Scramble to summit.

FA: D. Margetts & others, 1989

This climb takes the buttress directly above the meet spot.

  1. 30m 14 Climb easy rock up to the overhang. Move left to the ledge. Climb the crack system just to the left of the nose (crux). Move up to the ledge above the nose. Continue easily up a series of ledges to the belay in the shade of a small tree.

FA: D. Margetts & N. Margetts, 1985

  1. 30m 19 Climb up to the base of the nose of BONNIE but instead of moving to the left of the nose (as in BONNIE), climb up the crack system to the right of the nose. Continue up into an open book. Climb this to the roof and pull through to a good ledge in common with the normal BONNIE route. Continue as in BONNIE.

FA: D. Margetts, A. Mercer & G. Lainis, 1987

The climb ascends the steep face (downstream facing) to the left (looking up) of the nose directly above the lower campsite i.e. to the left of the climb BONNIE.

  1. 20m 22 Climb easy rock up to a good large ledge. Ascend the middle of the steep face avoiding the crack and recess and arete to the right completely. Follow a thin crack line initially up to a rail, then continue up the face to a good ledge where a belay can be made. Climb easily to the top of the crag.

Notes:

  1. A fixed peg was placed near the top of the face.

  2. Small wires (RPs) were used on the lower section of the face which constitutes the crux.

  3. The recess and arete on the right was avoided completely.

FA: D. Margetts, 1987

This climb takes the same buttress as BONNIE and climbs the downstream face. Scramble up to the left of the buttress to a good tree belay.

  1. 25m 12 Climb up the short face to a large ledge. Climb up the small open book to finish up the crack in the slightly overhanging face.

FA: N. Margetts & M. Margetts, 1985

1 10 12m
2 10 40m

The climb takes the obvious red chimney just downstream of and opposite to RHEBUCK GULLY.

  1. 12m 10 Climb generally up the right side of the chimney to the small stance and tree.

  2. 40m 10 Climb the crack in the right corner of the chimney and continue up the chimney to the top.

Note: Variations are possible on both pitches.

FA: D. Peters, E. Druschke & C. Ward, 1980

1 17 25m
2 13 10m

Start 50m downstream of NETTLE GULLY on the true left of the kloof. Scramble up the open book to a broad ledge. Continue up and traverse right to another large platform with a cairn.

  1. 25m 17 Start climbing about 2m to the right of the left-hand edge of the upper ledge. Follow the crack system up to an overhang (this is situated to the left of the more prominent overhang with a V-recess in it). Moving left, break through the overhang, then continue up to a good ledge.

  2. 10m 13 Move up the chimney/recess on the left of the ledge to easier ground and the tree belay.

Note: To descend abseil via the tree from the top of the route.

FA: N. Margetts & D. Margetts, 1985

1 17 20m
2 13 45m

Situated 1 5m from the broken-pipe drip on the true left of the kloof where two obvious breaks take off from opposite ends of an elevated block.

  1. 20m 17 Straddle the overhanging recess for 8m. Continue straight up to the overhang that forms the base of an obvious nose. Stance on the left of the nose.

  2. 45m 13 Traverse right onto the nose. Climb up and out to the left. Continue to the false top of the buttress. Traverse the gap and ascend the crack on the left to the true top of the buttress.

FA: J. de Groot & G. Graafland, 1983

1 15 25m
2 15 40m

Situated 15m from the broken-pipe drip on the true left of the kloof where two obvious breaks take off from opposite ends of an elevated block.

  1. 25m 15 Straddle the grey recess on the right-hand edge of the block for 4m. Move diagonally right over the bulge. Continue upwards via the slightly overhanging open book to the well-defined recess with the intricately rippled floor.

  2. 40m 15 Straddle the recess until it closes. Step out onto the face and pull up. Continue upwards keeping right at the top of the buttress.

FA: J. de Groot & G. Graafland, 1983

1 15 41m
2 15 10m

Opposite GOLDEN GOOSE is a high buttress. The route takes a thin crack line up the broken rock at the left extremity of this buttress and makes for the V-notch visible high up - cairn.

  1. 41m 15 Climb the crack (using the rounded holds which all seem to slope the wrong way) until the angle eases and one can take a stance in the recess below the roof of the V-notch. The crux is about half way up and for height challenged persons comprises a precarious lay back move.

  2. 10m 15 Move up to the roof and straddle through this (airy) to the easier ground above. Climb the headwall of the pinnacle above moving first left and then up and to the right to break through the roof (good grips) to reach the top of the pinnacle

Notes:

  1. A surprisingly excellent climb on steep rock, airy but all there.

  2. Descend from the top, carefully, down the steep gully immediately upstream of the route.

FA: G. Devine & T.P. Wilmot, 1997

1 11 20m
2 15 20m
3 6 25m

The climb starts 30m downstream of the point where water flows out of the pipe, on the left side of the kloof. The climb inclines leftwards up the first solid buttress downstream of a long stretch of broken krantz.

  1. 20m 11 Climb up 3m in a broken open book, move 2m right over the broken bulge. Continue up for 6m to an overhang then move right over the bulge onto the broad sloping ledge. Continue up diagonally left for 5m to the small stance with loose block. (Peg belay.)

  2. 20m 15 Traverse 6m diagonally left to a chimney and climb the chimney to the ledge.

  3. 25m 6 Continue up the ridge via the large ledge to the top.

Variation: 2b. 11 After 5m up the chimney, traverse 5m right then straight up the crack and round the small tree to the right. Move 5m left along the ledge to the same stance.)

FA: A. Venzo, D. Peters & S. Spottiswoode, 1972

1 15 35m
2 11 15m

Left of FIONA'S FOLLY, this route takes the prominent corner which goes right up the crag on the downstream side of the white buttress taken by FIRST CHOICE.

  1. 35m 15 Climb the recess to a ledge. Continue up the recess via a steep bulging face to the large ledge below that overhang.

  2. 15m 11 Climb out right under the overhang. Straight up to a small chimney and out left to the top.

FA: R. Druschke, E. Druschke & H. Vogl, 1979

1 19 25m
2 17 30m

The climb starts about 35m downstream of the point where water flows out of the pipe on the first solid buttress downstream of a long stretch of broken krantz. Start just right of a beacon at the base of a recess sloping diagonally up leftwards (FIRST CHOICE) and below a prominent buttress spilt by a shallow recess in the upper half of the cliff.

  1. 25m 19 Climb up on the left-hand side of the buttress for 5m. Traverse right across a steep face and then up on to the buttress. Climb diagonally right to the base of an undercut chimney. Climb this (crux) and at the top step left to a small stance in a recess below some steep rock.

  2. 30m 17 Climb steeply diagonally up left onto a block. Continue diagonally left until it is possible to swing left into the base of the shallow recess in the front of the buttress. Climb this to a small overhang, Surmount this on the left and then step right and move up to another small overhang. Step right on to easier rock and climb to the top.

FA: P. Fatti & Ms F. Richardson, 1979

1 19 25m
2 17 30m

An alternative start is found 8m further downstream

  1. 25m 19 Climb up the wall to a semi-layback crack. Continue up until the wall eases off at an off-width crack. Climb this (awkward), then move diagonally left to a prominent nose (bent right). Continue up to a small stance.

  2. 30m 17 Climb steeply diagonally up left onto a block. Continue diagonally left until it is possible to swing left into the base of the shallow recess in the front of the buttress. Climb this to a small overhang, Surmount this on the left and then step right and move up to another small overhang. Step right on to easier rock and climb to the top.

FA: Alvin Wood, D. Hunter & C. Ward, 1980

1 15 25m
2 10 10m
3 19 20m

The route starts about 5m downstream of the direct start of FIONA'S FOLLY. The route goes up a groove line for 25m to a large ledge and then up a black water-stained face for 15m to a large ledge. It finally finishes up the overhanging face with the cubbyhole directly above.

  1. 25m 15 Climb the groove (awkward start) which lies 5m to the right of the direct start to FIONA'S FOLLY. At 10m traverse a few metres right and continue up the groove via some balancing moves to a large ledge with a tree belay.

  2. 10m 10 Climb the black water-stained face above to the large ledge.

  3. 20m 19,A1 From the left side of the ledge step down and traverse 5m left to the first of two obvious corners about 2m apart. Climb the corner for a few metres then use aid to overcome the overhang. Make some obvious moves to gain the cubbyhole, then aid to move right out of cubbyhole and up. Make some strenuous moves to gain the top of the face.

FA: L.P. Fatti, D. Peters & M. Arsenjevic, 1982

Climbs the corner 5m to the left of THAT LITTLE FAGGOT.

  1. 15m 16 Climb the corner.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss, 1988

Climbs the steep wall 10-15m upstream of RAMBO / LIKE A CHIMPANZEE / MADISONS MISTAKE.

  1. 24m 19 Boulder problem to start and then straight up the steep crack above to a ledge.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & G. Murray, 1988

1 18 25m
2 12 30m
3 12 30m

This climb starts downstream of FIONA'S FOLLY and PETFATARS and ascends an obvious recess with a wide off-width crack in the upper section.

  1. 25m 18 Ascend the recess with the crux at the top off-width section. Scramble to a large ledge.

  2. 30m 12 Move down and leftward from the ledge to stand on a block. Climb the steep face on good grips to an open book with a slab on the right. Climb the slab to a good ledge.

  3. 30m 12 Climb a series of open books up the arete to the top of the crag.

Note: #4 Friends are useful on the 1st pitch.

FA: D. Margetts & A. Mercer, 1987

A line at the top of the gully behind THAT LITTLE FAGGOT.

  1. 15m 25 Start at the bucket right of the bolt. Up to a bolt (RP2 and RP1). Left past the bolt and then follow the line to the top.

FA: Roger Nattrass, 1988

This route takes the 90o overhanging open book about 30m upstream from FOETUS.

  1. 10m 17 Scramble up to the start of the open book then climb it.

FA: C. Curson, 1985

This climb starts about 12m left of FOETUS at a squat 3m pillar in front of a blunt arete.

  1. 25m 18 Climb up the front of the pillar. Using some holds on the left, ascend the thin crack on the right. Climb the shallow groove above. Step right onto the arete and pull up to a large ledge.

FA: C. Curson, Charles Edelstein, K. Smith & H. Gill, 1985

  1. 25m 18 Starting at the tree 5m left of FOETUS, climb the crack to easier ground.

FA: C. Curson & H. Gill, 1985

1 17 20m
2 17 10m
3 11 15m

Start 15m upstream of ASTERISK.

  1. 20m 17 Climb a crack until it opens out into a recess below an overhang. Move over right to a corner. Climb this to a small stance below another overhang.

  2. 10m 17 Move over left onto a wall. Climb up and left around an edge. Continue left for 2m and then up diagonally right. Continue straight up a wall to a good ledge.

  3. 15m 11 Climb broken rock above to the top.

FA: E. Haber, E. Nienaber & H. Zangerl, 1979

1 20 40m
2 17 20m

Starts 2m left of THE CRUISE on the edge of the ledge. A line of bolts will be seen on the arête to the right of the start.

  1. 40m 20 The dihedral which FOETUS partially takes is climbed in its entirety to give a long, superb quality pitch. The crux is the first 5m. Moving initially slightly left, climb up to a ledge at the base of an upstream facing open book. Ascend this (initially shared with FOETUS) past one small overhang to belay on a small stance just past the second.

  2. 20m 17 Continue up the dihedral (slightly right) to a ledge. Traverse right a few metres and climb up to another ledge. Traverse back left to the arete (above the stance) and climb to the top.

Notes:

  1. On pitch 2, if you take off leftwards from the first ledge, it is 19 (scarce pro). The overhanging groove just left of the stance, and stepping right onto the face about 3m from the top, is 20.

FA:

FA: C. Curson & M. Haffner, 1985

Climbs the arête between CLIMB OF THE CENTURY and THE CRUISE. Bolted.

Start as for ASTERISK.

  1. 30m 22 Climb the crack running up the middle of the steep pink wall and continue straight up the face above, moving right onto ledges.

Note: THE CRUISE follows the line of the aid route ASTERISK but finishes more directly.

FA: K.M. Smith, George Mallory, M. Brunke & J.M. Brown, 1985

1 19 35m
2 15 25m

On the opposite side of the kloof to the PUNCHLINE buttress is a smooth pink slightly overhanging face, which faces downstream. The climb goes up the crack line in this face. Scramble 5m up to a large ledge with a deep chimney at the back of it.

  1. 35m 19,A2 Climb the groove in the middle of the overhanging pink face on polished rock to a small overhang 8m up. Move right and climb the crack for 3m using one aid point to an off-balance stance. Continue up the crack for 8m using aid and climb the final 3m of the face to a small ledge. Traverse left along the ledge for 5m and move around the corner. Climb the face above for 8m before traversing right 5m and moving down to a good ledge.

  2. 25m 15 Climb a series of steep corners above to a large ledge 10m up. Continue up the easy corner on the right to the top.

FA: P. Fatti & D. Peters, 1981

The direct version of SEA OF MADNESS

FA:

The wall to the right of THE CRUISE.

  1. 20m 26 Pull through a small overhang and climb straight up the face past a bolt, until able to move left to a friend rail. Continue up the right-trending break above.

FA: 1986

About 20m downstream of SEA OF MADNESS and THE CRUISE is a lower short buttress.

  1. 12m 25 Climb up the middle of this short buttress.

Note: Small friends and bolts.

FA: Martin Seegers & D. Margetts, 1989

1 11 22m
2 18 22m
3 6 7m

Start upstream of a small buttress angled 45o facing upstream and scramble 15m up to the back of a very deep chimney.

  1. 22m 11 Climb the back of the chimney by straddling and chimneying and move out right to a large ledge.

  2. 22m 18 Ascend the magnificent red smooth-sided corner to a large ledge.

  3. 7m 6 Climb the crack at the back of the ledge.

FA: D. Cheesemond & D. Peters, 1979

1 10 10m
2 6 20m
3 13 30m

The climb starts 30m upstream of the minor gully between THE SWARM and STOEP POLISH. The first pitch goes up the obvious 10m high crack in the corner with a flake on the top of it. The left side of the corner is formed by a smooth shiny white face which faces downstream.

  1. 10m 10 Climb the crack in the corner and move left to a very large ledge beneath a large overhang (it is possible to scramble onto this ledge from the upstream side).

  2. 20m 6 15m to the left there is a broken corner. Climb this for 15m and move onto a large ledge on the left (shared by THE ODYSSEY).

  3. 30m 13 From the right-hand side of the ledge climb diagonally right past white roots and continue up the corner to the top.

FA: Greg Moseley & B. de Villiers, 1979

1 8 35m
2 8 15m
3 9 15m

Start in the easy corner 5m downstream of DEVIL-DODGER.

  1. 35m 8 Climb the obvious corner and continue up to a tree belay at the point where the face steepens and the corner becomes more defined once again.

  2. 15m 8 Climb the corner to a large ledge.

  3. 15m 9 Climb the steep chimney above on good grips.

FA: D. Peters & P. Fatti, 1981

1 19 25m
2 10 35m
3 12 15m

This climb starts on an elevated ledge 5 to 10m upstream of STOEP POLISH. The climb starts in an obvious crack system with a tree growing close to the face.

  1. 25m 19 Climb the layback crack for 5m. Using the left face continue up the crack system to a small resting ledge. Continue up to a small overhang. Continue past the overhang to a good ledge with a tree belay.

  2. 35m 10 Continue up the crack system behind the ledge to another ledge. Climb the corner with a crack in it and smooth sloping slab on the right to a large ledge.

  3. 15m 12 Climb the left-hand crack system, using a tree root, to a good ledge.

FA: A. Mercer, D. Margetts & H. De Koningh, 1985

1 8 21m
2 12 18m
3 10 27m

The climb starts up a broken sloping white face 10m upstream of the narrow gully upstream of THE SWARM.

  1. 21m 8 Climb the sloping white face to the prominent corner which leads up to the right. Continue a few metres up the corner to a large ledge level with a tree on the right.

  2. 18m 12 Climb diagonally right over polished red rock, keeping to the corner, onto a comfortable stance below the point where the corner leads straight up the krantz.

  3. 27m 10 Continue up the corner to the top.

Note: This is a clean climb on top quality rock.

FA: D. Peters, C. Fatti & A. Fatti, 1981

1 18
2 15
3 8

On the opposite side of the kloof to the GRASSY SLAB the river runs (occasionally) over some polished slabs right next to the krantz. RIGHT SLANT goes up the steep recess above the slabs. 5m upstream there is a corner capped by an overhang 20m up. A small tree grows at the foot of the corner. The climb goes up this corner.

  1. 32m 18 Climb the corner to the overhang. Traverse left across the slab beneath the overhang. Traverse a few metres further left and climb up to the cubbyhole at the base of a steep face .

  2. 22m 15 Climb diagonally right to the large tree on the face. Continue up to the overhang on the left. Turn the overhang by climbing up and right and continue up to another overhang. Bypass this on the left and continue to the ledge.

  3. 27m 8 Scramble up to a face on the right and climb it.

FA: Greg Moseley & D. Peters, 1980

19 A more aesthetic finish is to be found by climbing the wall direct after the old aid move under the roof.

FA: A. Wood & D. Peters

1 14 13m
2 15 15m
3 13 36m

The climb is situated on the second rock face on the right as one enters the kloof. The first rock face is approximately 40m high and the second, moving up the kloof on the right, is approximately 50m high. Start on slanting rock slabs at the base of the main wall.

  1. 13m 14 Climb the second main recess from the left (cairn). Climb up the crack and move diagonally right to a small tree growing out of a crack. Move over this and up, traversing diagonally left to slanting ledges. Belay on blocks (a good thread on jammed blocks).

  2. 15m 15,A2 Continue straight up crack above the stance to a small tree also in a crack. Move diagonally up right across an overhanging wall (three points of aid) to an obvious shallow recess . Continue up (peg) to a metre wide ledge, then move left and up to a giant ledge. Small tree belay.

  3. 36m 13 Continue up a short wall, with all the holds slanting towards you, to a ledge. Climb a crack system and flake on the left side of a buttress for about 25m to a tree. Move left to a wall which forms the highest rock point from the face below.

FA: Greg Moseley & C. Ward, 1979

1 17 20m
2 18 20m

The intention was to free the aid on RIGHT SLANT, but a completely new line was found 4m to the right.

  1. 20m 17 Climb onto large block then ascend corner to tree noted on Pitch 1 of RIGHT SLANT. Belay just above.

  2. 20m 18 Straight up into the corner capped by the overhang. Step out onto the right wall and up.

FA: Alvin Wood & D. Peters, 1983

Climbs the pinky-white corner and continuation crack which lie between RIGHT SLANT and RED HOT TOOTIE.

  1. 25m 24 Climb the dihedral, continue up to the roof, pull through leftwards and follow the crack to a ledge.

Note: A fixed piton protects the crux.

FA: K.M. Smith & George Mallory, 1985

1 15 30m
2 11 20m
3 15 30m

Start just right of RIGHT SLANT.

  1. 30m 15 Move up the corner following the roots to a large tree. Gain height with the aid of the tree (this tree is now missing - use Pitch 1 of RED HOT TOOTIE) moving right with a hand jam in the crack then up the crack to good hand holds. Carryon up broken rock to a largish tree at the foot of an overhanging recess.

  2. 20m 11 Move over the block via the corner then across a large flat rock to the next large block. Move over the block then belay at the tree. (Common stance with RIGHT SLANT.)

  3. 30m 15 Move up the recess for 5m then move left around the corner (thin). Move up to the top.

FA: G. Langmore, R. Brown & N. Owen-Smith, 1980

1 17 25m
2 19 25m
3 20 20m

Now that the tree that was used to overcome the difficulties on pitch 1 of TOOTIE ROOTIE has fallen down, one is faced with more severe problems. The 2nd and 3rd pitches of the route take the direct line instead of escaping to the left as the original route does.

  1. 25m 17 Climb the obvious corner just downstream of RIGHT SLANT and THE SWARM until it runs out. Move slightly right and layback up a smooth corner to gain a large ledge. Move right to a nearby tree belay.

  2. 25m 19 Climb directly up on polished rock to immediately beneath an overhanging nose. Move right onto the steep smooth convex face. Climb this to a stance at the foot of an overhanging chimney which is capped by a roof 10m up.

  3. 20m 20 Climb the overhanging chimney to the roof. Traverse out left and continue to the top.

Variation: This alternative which lies some distance downstream of the original start, makes the climb completely independent of TOOTIE ROOTIE. 1a. 20m 15 Start just left of an overhang at ground level which lies 10m upstream of the end of the buttress. Climb diagonally left for 10m passing beneath an inviting crack to the base of an open book which lies 5m to the right of the crack used by the original first pitch. Ascend the open book until it is possible to move out right onto the nose. Continue up to a good tree belay.

FA: M. Arsenjevic & D. Peters, 1983

FFA: M. Arsenjevic, D. Peters & T. Lambrecht, 1984

1 20 10m
2 19 28m

Start 8 to 10m downstream from RED HOT TOOTIE on a wall with two cracks in it, 2m apart.

  1. 10m 20 Climb the right-hand crack to a large ledge.

  2. 28m 19 Climb the crack, which becomes a downstream-facing corner/recess, up to a roof (loose block). Move left onto the nose and straight to the top.

FA: Stewart Middlemiss & D. van Zyl, 1987

1 12 25m
2 10 30m

Situated opposite grey grassy slabs on far side of kloof, downstream of a pinky-white recess.

  1. 25m 12 Leaving prominent ripple-marked slabs about 10m to the left, climb up just right of a shallow chimney, onto face and up this to a large stance (tree).

  2. 30m 10 Traverse diagonally up left, then up an open book to the top.

FA: C. Fatti, P. Kaiser, S. Gans & I. Kelman, 1979

Starts 25m upstream of GUNSIGHT where an obvious looking weakness leads diagonally left.

  1. 40m 15,A1 Climb diagonally left along the weakness. Continue leftwards on rounded holds for 5m to a block. Move up the black "waterchute" recess until 2m from a large ledge above. Make final hold-less moves with 2 pegs.

FA: D. Peters, S. Spottiswoode & A. Venzo, 1972

1 22 17m
2 21 20m

Start 3m to the left of THE DOGFATHER directly below the overhanging jam crack.

  1. 17m 22 A hard move from the left brings you onto good holds below the jam crack. Climb the crack to a belay ledge common with THE DOGFATHER.

  2. 20m 21 Climb the crack in the right facing open book to a ledge and continue up the centre of the narrow orange face above, exiting to the left just before reaching the tree.

FA: Charles Edelstein, 1986

1 22 20m
2 22 20m

This takes the deep pink recess 3m to the left of GUNSIGHT.

  1. 20m 22 Pull up through the overhang and diagonally left into the recess. Up the recess to the overhangs and step right. Continue straight up to a ledge and belay.

  2. 20m 22 Directly above is an open book with a crack in its rear and a crack 2m to the right. Climb the right hand crack to a large ledge, and then continue up the open book at the back of the ledge.

FA: Charles Edelstein & M. Haffner, 1985

1 6 10m
2 17 22m
3 13 12m

The climb is on the first rock face, approximately 40m high, on the right side facing upstream. A rock formation at the top of the highest rock looks like a gunsight.

  1. 10m 6 Scramble up a stepped ramp which bears diagonally left to a sloping ledge and shallow cave directly below the gunsight.

  2. 22m 17 From the right hand end of the ledge, pull up onto a small ledge on a steep wall to the right of a large nose 3m above. Continue up a groove and flakes into a shallow recess. Step over left onto the top of the nose. Climb a V-groove directly above the nose. Move up as high as possible and swing right to a smooth sloping ledge. Move diagonally up left to a large smooth sloping ledge. Traverse 2m right of this crack to a good jamming crack. Move up slightly right of this crack to a good ledge. Continue bearing left toward the gunsight onto a comfortable sloping ledge on the left below the gunsight. Belay.

  3. 12m 13 Climb a short wall just to the right of the gunsight. Continue up past the right rock projection of the gunsight and over through a cleft to the top.

FA: Alan Lambert, D. Peters & Clive Ward, 1979

1 20 20m
2 23 12m

Climb the crack 1m to the right of GUNSIGHT.

  1. 20m 20 Climb the crack 1m to the right of GUNSIGHT to below the overhang level with the top of the prominent prow (where GUNSIGHT steps left). Move slightly left and climb the steep crack above easily to a point where you can traverse right to a ledge and belay.

  2. 12m 23 Above is an overhanging face with a short bottomless "friend" crack 3m up. Use the face up and slightly right of the "friend" crack, and then move up on small holds directly above the "friend" crack, and climb to a ledge and tree belay.

FA: Charles Edelstein & Neil Margetts, 1986

FA: Charles Edelstein & George Mallory, 1986

A short distance upstream of the lunch spot is a steep crag on the true left. This route is between PISTOL and GUNSIGHT.

  1. 30m 21 Start 0,5m left of PISTOL and continue up the independent line until a ledge is gained. Traverse easily left 4m and climb the break in the face up to a sloping ledge at the top. Sustained climbing after a tricky take-off.

FA: George Mallory, K. Smith, M. Brunke & Steven Mallory, 1985

Start approximately 8m downstream of GUNSIGHT, in the triangular cave about 10m up.

  1. 30m 18 Climb to apex of cave and exit via crack above. Climb up narrow chimney past overhang to the top.

FA: M. Brunke & D. Cheesmond, 1981

This climb starts about 2m downstream of PISTOL.

  1. 15m 20 Climb the steep overhanging wall on good grips tending rightwards 4m to a prominent pointed block. Continue up the cracks above to a good ledge.

Note: A short pleasant route well protected. Abseil off good tree.

FA: N. Margetts & Charles Edelstein, 1986

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