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Access issues

For more information on routes, access and permits please see the following websites:

Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA) http://www.mcsa.org.za/ Look at “Who we are” for the different sections of the MCSA

Mountain Club of South Africa – Johannesburg Section website https://mcsajohannesburg.org/ Click on “Access and Properties” for more information Click on “Contact” to get in touch with the MCSA for more information.

ClimbZA website http://www.climbing.co.za/wiki/South_African_Climbing_Wiki Welcome to the largest & most comprehensive online database of Southern African climbing information.

http://www.climbing.co.za/forum/ A forum site to find climbing partners or to find out more about different climbing areas and climbs.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the corner past a bulge until a small tree is reached (12m). Step right and make a rising traverse under the roof past loose blocks and onto a pinnacle. Step 1m left and follow the crack up the wall to the summit.

FA: R. Dodding & L. Gardiner, 1985

This climb is situated on the next buttress downstream of the climbs SPECIAL EDITION and OUMA'S KOOL KAT KOEKSUSTER. The climb can be distinguished by a crack starting halfway up a steep buttress. A distinctive open book is found about 2m to the right of the crack.

  1. 20m 17 Climb the buttress tending slightly rightwards for 2 to 3m, then move leftwards to the base of the crack. Ascend the crack to the good ledge. Ascend the open book behind the ledge to easier rock and a large grassy ledge.

  2. 20m 16 Walk rightwards past a pinnacle (small) on the left. Climb the steep rock face with a large block at the base of the cliff and the roots hanging down the cliff. Move up the rock face making for a small recess. Break out rightwards at the recess. Using the roots, climb up to ledge past a tree. Note: Use tree for abseiling.

FA: A. Mercer & D. Margetts., 1986

Immediately upstream of the ENTERPRISE buttress and the route ITS LIFE JIM, BUT NOT AS WE KNOW IT are two small detached columns one behind the other. The route takes the chimney and then the crack in the stream facing side of the lower of the two columns. Start at the tree next to the chimney in the downstream facing side of the lower of the two columns.

  1. 23m 16 Climb the chimney and surmount the chockstone above to reach the top of the block. Climb the clean crack to the right with difficulty to reach the ledge above. Step to the left and ascend the obvious crack. Move left to the arête and pull up the crack to the tiny summit. The summit is only able to stance a medium sized dassie and, for this reason, take a belay on the little ledge on the upstream side of the column summit. The rest of your party can be parked on the large block below and on the upstream side of the column. Notes:

  2. Scramble down on the downstream side by traversing in towards HUMBLE TRUNDLE below the ENTERPRISE buttress and then down the obvious gully.

  3. Excellent climbing on clean rock.

FA: U. Kiefer, T.P. Willmot, J. de Wet & M.T. Willmot., 1994

The route takes the thin crack line some 10m upstream of BEAM ME UP SCOTTY, on the upstream facing side of the ENTERPRISE buttress. Start at the 5mm wide crack after fighting through the bush/tree (cairn).

  1. 15m 15 Climb the crack to easier ground above. Ignore the first crack branching off to the right and bridge up the second crack which branches off to the right. Heave through the roof to comfortable stance above.

FA: F. Greig & T.P. Willmot., 1990

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