The start of the climb lies a third of the way downstream from the 15m high waterfall to the huge chock stone wedged across the kloof i.e. at the lower end of "the pool across the kloof". The climb starts up the obvious crack on the left side of the kloof which leads up to a gully. The climb continues up the faces to the left of the gully.
20m 17 From a small cave a few metres above the river traverse left to the obvious crack. Climb the crack passing a small chockstone (crux) just over halfway up and continue to a large ledge.
30m 13 Climb the crack/ramp to join a large ledge at 25m. From the left side of the ledge traverse left onto the grey face, climb up several metres then traverse left to a large ledge.
25m 15 Climb the easy grey face to a grassy ledge at 15m. Climb up the middle of the 5m face above at grade 15 then traverse left to a corner at the foot of the final buttress.
30m 15 Climb the polished corner on the buttress for a few metres to gain a ledge on the right of the corner where the corner ends in an overhang. Straddle across the corner and continue traversing leftwards to the crest of the buttress. Climb the crest of the buttress using cracks and corners to reach the top.
Notes:
The first and last pitches are particularly enjoyable.
This route is possibly the same as LOST CAUSE.
6 May 1984 | First ascent:
D. Peters, T. Snijders, A. Fatti & Greg Moseley This route is possibly the same as LOST CAUSE. |
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17,13,15,15 | Assigned grade |
★★Marc dM | |
17 | SACIN - South African Climbing Info Network |
No fire allowed as per “No Fires in Magaliesberg Policy”. There is currently a moratorium on bolting in Magaliesberg. BLACK EAGLES nest from April to October inclusive and the following climbs should NOT be done during this period. NEW ERA CRACK, LILLIPUT RIDGE and THE CRYSTAL SHIP.
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