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1 45m
2 45m

The climb starts on a small ledge in a recess above a pool above a waterfall. Cross the stream at the top of the waterfall and walk right for 3m against the wall to the ledge (footholds may be just under the water if the water level is high). The ledge is about 1m above the stream. The climb follows the crack all the way to the top.

  1. 45m (13) Above the waterfall climb up inward flaring jam crack to ledge with tree. Climb into the small cave and out right at the top. Follow the corner to a large ledge with an overhang and the Burton Memorial.

  2. 45m (15) Climb up the overhang and out on the right (crux). Follow the crack, and later a short chimney, to the top.

Note: An excellent grade 13 variation is to climb Tonquani Crack to the Burton Memorial and then Tonquani Ridge from that point. This involves walking left on a horizontal tree from the memorial which is now fairly rotten. This linkup can also be done by traversing left on good holds a few meters above the crux of pitch 2.

Ethic: inherited from Upper Tonquani Kloof

Leave no trace. Monkey cages are installed at the campsite and at the meet spot in the kloof, you are advised to store food items in these to prevent the monkeys from eating it. Please do not leave litter in the cages and please do not feed the monkeys. Bolting is prohibited.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: D. Abercrombie, C. Nicholls, J. Langmore & C. Gebhardt, Apr 2038


Located in Upper Tonquani Kloof approx:
Lat/Long: -25.849006,27.499190

Route Grade Citations

15 Community registered grade
15 SACIN - South African Climbing Info Network

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 50%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

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Check out what is happening on Tonquani Crack (note there is an unresolved system issue where ascents logged before 2010 are not displayed in the stream below). If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta.