Routes in Magaliesberg for selected grade

A line at the top of the gully behind THAT LITTLE FAGOT.

1. [25] 15m Start at the bucket right of the bolt. Up to a bolt (RP2 and RP1). Left past the bolt and then follow the line to the top.

Climbs the arête between 'Clime Of The Century' and 'The Cruise'. Bolted.

About 20m downstream of 'Sea Of Madness' and 'The Cruise' is a lower short buttress.

1. 12m 25 Climb up the middle of this short buttress.

Note: Small friends and bolts.

Climbs the very overhanging wall on the true right of the kloof downstream of the main climbing area. This is where the kloof makes a turn to the left, but is upstream of the pinnacle.

1. [25/26] 15m Climb the steep corner/ crack past a peg to the top.

Climbs the smooth wall, with two bolts, to the right of 'Stone Needle'.

1. [25] 15m From the base of 'Stone Needle' climb diagonally right to the first bolt. Climb straight to the top past the second bolt.

Climbs the arete to the right of 'The Moke' and continues up the face between the final section of 'The Moke' and 'Hyperadrenia'.

This route shares a start with Blood Before Tea before moving left and up the immaculate face to break through the roofs above.

1. [25] 30m As for 'Blood Before Tea', climb easy rock to gain a vaguely rightwards trending rib, then step right to a ledge. Move up and left to the obvious rail in the clean wall on the left. Rail 1.5m left then climb the face to the base of a rightward facing corner. Climb this as it gradually steepens then exit leftwards above the lip to beneath the large square roof. Pull past the left edge of the roof to easy ground and a fixed anchor (three nuts and a manky old peg – shared with Finger Hatchet). Either rap off or climb 'Blood Before Tea' top pitch.

Approximately 100m upstream from 'Red Column' there is a very overhanging orange wall which starts about 30m below the top of the kloof. The wall faces slightly upstream, is opposite a dry gully and is split by a left-tending break. The route is best approached from the top.

1. [25] 30m Start just left of the tree and climb the break to the roof. Step left and pull onto the wall. Continue straight up for about 6m then move slightly right to join the left-tending break. Follow this to the top.

Climb left break on the wall, kinking to the right briefly at a bolt and then exiting left.

The smooth grey slab above the grassy ramp which leads up to the base of, and is left of, 'Red Column'.

1. 20m 25 Climb the thin crack up the centre of the slab.

Note:

Small wires are useful as protection.

Rap in to the ledge and climb the white slab/face to the left of 'Bumping Weight Tosser'. Wanders around a bit to contrive gear

At the same level as the start of 'The Doppler Effect' walk about 30m left along the grass ledge to a large flat good bivi ledge (lizard ledge), to the left of this is a overhanging face with a crack up the centre which fades away after 7m.

1. 15m 25 Climb the crack to its top, and at this level move up to the right arete which is climbed to the top (do not move around the corner i.e. stay on the arête).

Takes a line up the centre of the wall to the left of 'Reggae Music' . Starts off the lizard ledge.

1. 20m 25 Climb up to the ledge and gain the flared crack on the left side of the scooped face. (Rock 1 or better still a Choinard 3). Up this to a bolt on the right. Continue diagonally right up to a rail. Then up and back left to a groove which is followed up to a ledge on the left.

1. 15m 25 Just right of 'Life After Enlightenment' there is a right-facing, black-streaked dihedral, with a roof and an old peg. The route goes straight up the dihedral and through the roof, onto a ledge. From this ledge, climb 'Scotsman's Safari' to top out.

Climb the crack line 3m left of 'Horse Latitudes' .

Note:

Bolt replaced in 2005

Just downstream of the wormhole descent, on the right side of the kloof, there is a 12m high conical buttress with some detached blocks on top of it. A continuous crack leads from it, bearing slightly left, up a steep smooth face for 9m and then continues through a 3m roof.

1. [25] 30m

   ???1. 30m 25 Use roots to climb the left side of the cone. Climb the continuation crack which overhangs to begin with before tackling the roof crack. Gain slab above roof, and hence onto ledge on the right and then up to a large ledge.

2. [15] 18m

   To the right an impressive smooth corner slopes up left. Belay near its foot. Climb up to the sloping corner and follow it to the top.

Variation: 2a. 18m 13 For a direct finish, belay at the foot of the obvious corner on the left (tree belay). Climb directly up the face for 3m to corner, continue up corner to tree on ledge. From the back of the ledge take a steep chimney in the corner which ends 3m from top, where two parallel cracks continue up. Ascend right crack to top. (Mar 1974 J. Linke and T. Hoy)

Starts from a wet sloping ledge below an undercut face approximately 10m to the left of 'Twist and Shout' .

1. [25] 20m

   Start up undercut face from wet ledge and climb rails to traverse left to a peg. Step back right and climb blocks to roof, then left to follow discontinuous crack line through the roof to a ledge. Originally graded 23! Well protected, with good small cams at the now-redundant peg.

2. [23] 20m

   Climb the interesting crack/groove through the overhang above and continue to a ledge.

Essentially a variation to the last pitch of 'Agonising Hands' .

1. [25] 25m Follow the line of 2 pegs to the left of the last pitch of 'Agonising Hands' and then go up the "V" groove above.

Start directly opposite 'Frog Gully' on the true right-hand side of the kloof, below a huge open book in the overhangs in the upper part of the kloof.

1. [22] 35m

   Scramble up the vertical grass (often wet) to the tree. Step 1m right and climb up 3m before pulling left into the thin groove. Climb up strenuously to a resting place below the overhang. Stretch across and clip a thin wire (in place). Using this for aid, step right and up into the base of the steep, broken crack. Climb the crack for about 15m to where the angle eases at the level of the 'Cedarberg Traverse' . Follow this route up and left around the corner and then back down to a stance just to the left of the crack which leads up to the big dihedral above.

2. [25] 25m

   Climb back up the crack to the small overhang. Pull through this and continue for about 1m from where it is possible to pull left to the prominent flake and crack. Steep jamming and lay-backing leads to a resting position on top of the broken flake. A further 3m leads up to the first major roof in the dihedral from where the aid climbing starts. Aid through this roof and continue up into the dihedral above. Climb this past some guano and continue to where the dihedral runs into the final, huge overhang. Traverse right (on aid) to the end of the overhang, step right and up onto a good stance.

3. [12] 10m

   Step right into the groove, climb this and continue to top.

Starts as for the 'The Fingertip Fandango' .

1. [25] 10m Up the 'The Fingertip Fandango' but move right where the 'The Fingertip Fandango' goes left. Finish straight up from the small cubbyhole.

This route climbs through the roof mentioned in STICKY CORNER on the left side.

1. 25m 25 Start directly below the left most point of the roof. Climb up the easy angled rock to the left of the small overhang, up to the first ledge. Make an awkward move right, across the gap to the base of a short left leaning corner capped with a small triangular white roof. Climb the corner to the small ledge. Climb diagonally left across the slab up to the left end of the roof. Pull through the roof and amble up to the mega ledge.

Note: Abseil down using the horizontal branch of the large tree.

Right of QUINTESSENCE.

1. 10m 25 Start as for QUINTESSENCE and step right at the overlap. Up left of the peg, finish straight up.

1. 10m 25 Climb the wall with 2 bolts to the right of TRICK OF THE LIGHT.

Takes the wall 3m to the left of DESPERATE BUT NOT SERIOUS.

1. 15m 25 Start beneath the bolt and climb straight up passing to the left of the peg. Pull directly through the bulge of the rightward curving crack and exit straight up. Follow easy rock to the top.

Takes the reddish overhanging wall halfway down the descent gully. Three bolts.

1. 15m 25 Climb up to the hand rail and go left. Climb up to below the small roof and pull through on the right. Continue to the top.

A roped boulder problem through the obvious break in the roof upstream of Forever Young. Start in a hollow formed between a boulder, the wall and the big Forever Young tree. I.e. immediately right of Yahoo.

Start 3m right of WHERE DO YOU THINK YOU ARE GOING, above the large boulder, but downstream of the obvious chimney cracks.

1. 25m 25 Climb up a few metres to steeper rock. Move right then make hard moves up to a good hold. Continue more or less straight up via the corners and small roofs above.

Climbs the steep wall on right of the top pitch of GOOD DOG. An amazing, airy route.

1. 30m 25 Climb the wall passing a few pieces of fixed gear.

Note: Fixed gear replaced in 2023, making this a safe but airy lead. A stickclip is useful for the start.

Shares Good Dog Pitch 1 and portion of Spaced OutPitch 2

The obvious thin crack up the face about 2m right of BORED GAMES.

1. 10m 25 Climb the crack to a gnarled tree. Either abseil back down or continue up easy rock to the top.

Climbs the face and arête past some bolts immediately left of CEE CRACK.

1. 20m 25 Climb face and arête past some bolts.

Climbs the steep corner/crack up the middle of the overhanging band of rock downstream of VORTEX, i.e. upstream of the sandy pool-bed above MHLABATINI CHIMNEY (opposite and slightly downstream of INVALID).

1. 15m 25 Climb the corner and continuation crack.

Climbs the crack 2.5m right of ELITE STREET (and therefore 9m downstream of RASP). Scramble up to a ledge and traverse right to the base of the crack.

1. 25m 25 Climb the crack past a mega hold to the base of a "shield". Continue up the right side of the shield to a ledge, move left, and climb more easily to the top.

18m downstream of a large collection of boulders in blocking the stream, on the true left, the kloof cuts back with a very attractive looking, purple-streaked overhanging downstream facing corner. The route takes this. Scramble 10m up to the obvious large ledge below the obvious corner.

1. 25m 25 Up the very sustained corner to belay in the tree.

Bold climbing up the tenuous flake-line left of TOTAL ON-SNORT.

1. 15m 25 Start 2m left of TOTAL ON-SNORT. Head slightly leftwards to peg. Straight up flakes (exiting left at the top).

This route is situated on the short overhanging face 60m upstream of the wade pool on the true left side of the kloof i.e. 20m or so upstream of FUTCH on the same side of the kloof. Scramble up onto the rock ledges below the start of FUTCH and walk left past DIRIGIBLE DOG. Scramble up about 4m to below the short face.

1. 15m 25 Start on the right and climb the obvious crack to a peg, move up with difficulty to good holds. Continue to the top.

Notes:

1. Peg left in-situ, placed on abseil.

2. Opened with multiple falls.

3. Excellent climbing - only shortcoming of the route is that it is short.

4. Maybe harder than 25.

Start just left of the leaning tree, a fun route.

A 10m route. 10m upstream of MIRROR MIRROR is a short overhanging wall. Starting off a boulder on the right, climb the broken crack-line to exit right to a ledge about 2m from the top of the wall. This route was originally opened by Roger Nattrass on natural at grade 24. A key hold has broken off to bring the grade up to 25 or maybe even 26?

This climb starts on the steep face above a boulder which is ascended after the pool. Climb up the face (1 bolt) to a ledge. Traverse left and up to a corner, climb the corner to a roof. Pull through the roof and climb the headwall to the top. (Permission has been given to retrobolt this route as long as long as the first ascent remains.)

The climb shares its start with MIRROR MIRROR. Head up right and up to the roof. Pull through the right hand side of the roof.

The route starts from the little island below the MIRROR MIRROR wall. Boulder up the start to a ledge and climb the open book to a small roof then pull though to chains.

A crimpy number that starts from the boulder with the first 2 bolts pre-clipped. The intention was to start the route from the ground, but a blank section has put that on hold, for now. There has in the past been a ball of wasps about 3m below the chains, so take care.

The obvious and stunning leaning groove. Belay off the bolt on the ramp. Feels traddy so even if you climb 30, prepare to struggle. MCSA/Boven Fund hardware. Rebolted Andrew Pedley in 2015