Site navigation

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is the please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Description

Large wall left of the Eagle's Head

Access issues inherited from Mt Everest Nature Reserve

  • Climbers must report to reception on arrival and again before leaving the resort. No climbing is allowed on the climbing wall unless the prescribed fees have been paid. No climbing is allowed after sundown. No climbing at all is allowed at the Bushman Complex.
  • No pets (this is a game reserve, full of animals), loud music or open fires except in designated braai areas.
  • If a section of rock is marked with an X, written in chalk, don’t touch those features as the X indicates that the rock is loose. Don’t try knock it off.

Approach

Follow the road to the Eagle's Head chalet and park about 100m before the chalet. Take care not to block in or disturb the occupants. Walk to the chalet resident's parking and just before the wooden bridge/deck go left into the bushes and follow a trail to the Eagle's Head. Leave the trail below the cliff and cut through the grass up to the base.

Descent notes

At the top you can walk towards the right and down the gully between the Eagle's Head and Eagle Crag. Alternatively you can abseil down Take It Easy.

Ethic inherited from Mt Everest Nature Reserve

  • Do not drop any litter, however small, including cigarette butts, finger tape and tissue paper! Take all this rubbish home with you. If you find rubbish, please pick it up, you are helping us all.
  • If you must take a crap at the crag, go at least 30 metres down-hill and away from the cliff and make sure you dig a hole and cover it with dirt, sticks, rocks afterwards. Never do your business in a cave or corner. Do not leave toilet paper lying around; it must be buried or carry it out.
  • If you take a pee, do not do it close to the cliff, make sure it’s in a place that is not sheltered from rain, otherwise it stinks.
  • Small tick dots are fine but tick marks over 3 cm are an eyesore and are unnecessary except for the hardest to see hand or footholds. Brush them off afterwards! Please brush chalk-caked holds after you have finished with a route, especially if it’s a route that is sheltered from rain.
  • NEVER use wire brushes!! They will destroy this rock. A soft toothbrush is fine.
  • Respect others; try not to be too loud and think carefully about smoking, bringing your dogs or crying children to the crags; these things can spoil the pleasure for others.
  • ‘IP’ written on the rock in chalk or a piece of tape/plastic on the first bolt means the route is ‘In Progress’ and the route is a closed project. Do not try these climbs unless you have permission from the route setter.
  • Do not remove other peoples draws from a route even if they have been hanging there for weeks. Some locals like to leave projects clipped-up. You may of course climb the routes using the draws left up.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1 40m
2 20 25m
3 11 25m
  1. 40m (18) 13D. This pitch ends on a large ledge below the overhanging Red Wall. One-bolt belay.

  2. 25m (20) 15D. Climb back and clip the last bolt of the previous pitch and continue up.

  3. 25m (11) 6D. This pitch takes you to the top.

Abseil back down the route. From the anchors at the top of pitch 2, abseil over the edge and onto the ledge below the Red Wall. The final abseil bolts are located on the clean rock face adjacent to the extreme right-hand side of the ledge. After the final abseil scramble down an easy gully to reach the base of the crag. Tie a knot in the end of your rope - this pitch is almost 35m long.

FA: Grant Murry & Mike Cartwright, 1994

FA: Mike Cartwright & Grant Murray, 1994

1 18 30m
2 17 20m
3 17 35m
4 15 35m
5 18 45m

It is possible to avoid the final pitch by walking off to the left. Decent by hiking around the back of the mountain to the right and then down the gully between Eagle Crag and Eagle's Head.

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud, 2017

  1. 25m (19) 10D

  2. Project

Set by Philippe Grandemy

1 18 25m
2 23 25m

Both pitches can be combined (20 draws)

FA: Philippe Gaboriaud

FA: Andrew Pedley

  1. 28m (27) 10D

  2. Project

Set by Philippe Gaboriaud

1
2 28

Activity

Check out what is happening in Eagle Crag.