I strongly recommend climbing this route with two ropes or/and taking along slings to avoid the intense rope drag you will have in the first pitch if you don't do so. This route is less run out, more technical with longer pitches than "Hannes Rebirth". A fun route.
50m, 10 bolts. Above some big blocks climb a crack that bends diagonally left keeping attention to go up before the anchors that is further in the same crack (these anchors belong to another route). Smear up and then diagonally left to the left of a short groove. Smear up and traverse right once above the groove to the anchors.
9 bolts. Climb up and diagonally right following the bolts towards a long crack that opens up (coming from the ground) becoming a small ledge. Make your way to the face and smear up the black/dark green wall to another small ledge.
5 bolts. Smear easy rock to a bigger ledge. One can bail here and avoid the 19 pitch by climbing an easy bolted (grade 11) traverse of the Garden Route to your right.
11 bolts. Smear up the face just right of the box that contains a book to log your climb. Follow the bolts balancing your way up in a beautiful sequence of moves to the anchor.
6 bolts. Follow easier rock to the top.
2005 | First ascent: Mike Scott & Josef Mayer |
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17, 16, 15, 19, 16, | Assigned grade |
★Scurvy | |
★★Cormac Tooze | |
19(S) | Russell Warren |
20 [19 - 21] ++ | grAId |
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