A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Wian van Zyl Nicola Clementel Anika Wojjy Terenc Cormac Tooze Clément Lechaptois robbiephillips Austin Purdy Isabelle Faus
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. E: Question of Balance 22 in Boulder
- 2. Index by grade
1. E: Question of Balance 22 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -32.163703, 19.036463
Bury your faeces and carry out your toilet paper. If the ground is too hard to bury your faeces, please carry it out with you and dispose of it in the campsite bins. Poop bags are available for free at De Pakhys. (A special note about this: Tea Garden has been closed primarily due to this problem. Animals such as baboons may eat human faeces and could contract diseases such as Tuberculosis and hepatitis, which could prove detrimental to the population)
Do not litter – carry everything you bring in with you back out with you and dispose of your litter in the bins at the campsite.
Stick to the allocated paths marked by cairns and as illustrated in the guidebook. Diverting from these paths causes far more erosion than is necessary and may cause the extinction of certain sensitive plants in the area.
No graffiti on rock surfaces. (Black Shadow boulder has been closed to climbing due to graffiti)
No pof is allowed in Rocklands. The resin damages the rock surfaces and this damage is irreversible.
access issues
(Leaving this here as its inherited by child locations - please take the time to take pictures of the boulders you visit and post them under the relavent locations so that we can start populating more topos 🙂).
As of 2014, no climbing is allowed in Rocklands without a valid climbing permit. Land owners often conduct inspections in the climbing areas and anyone found without a permit will be asked to leave the climbing area. Permits can be obtained online - www.quicket.co.za - or purchased at CapeNature's Kliphuis campsite office; De Pakhuys campsite office; or Traveller's Rest farmstall and restaurant.
ethic
The complete disrespect of boulderers for the land on which they climb is a very serious and has become a very real threat to bouldering in Rocklands.
Rocklands bouldering is in peril. Rocklands does not belong to the climbers.
Our access is not a right, it’s a privilege and our treatment of the land is the difference between us being allowed to climb in Rocklands and us being banned from climbing in Rocklands altogether.
Irresponsible boulderers have caused this problem and boulderers are the only ones who can fix it.
Please respect the land you climb on in South Africa and adhere to the above mentioned rules. Your privilege to climb in Rocklands depends on it.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ La Gloire Des Papous
Sit-start in a small cave, move out and climb up on small holds. "Papou is the Greek word for Grandfather" FA: Fred Nicole, 2002 | {FB} 8A | ||||
2 | Giftla | {FB} 7B | ||||
3 |
★★★ Baboon Master
Start with left hand on undercling and right hand on edge and climb up. "Harder than it looks" FA: Fred Nicole, 1996 | {FB} 8A | ||||
4 |
★★★ Monkey Wedding
Sit-start below the corner with pinch for the left hand, climb up leftwards on rails to sidepull / pinch then move up right and finish up the seam. "After many years it still remains one of the hardest problems in Rocklands" FA: Fred Nicole, 2002 | {FB} 8C | 4m | |||
5 |
★★★ A Question of Balance
Listed as a classic in the guidebook Climb diagonally right up the seam and finish up groove. "The name says it all. One of the first and still one of the best" FA: Fred Nicole, 1996 | {FB} 7B | ||||
6 |
★★ A Matter of Power
Sit-start with underclings and climb into A Question of Balance. FA: Fred Nicole, 2000 | {FB} 7C+ | ||||
7 |
★★★ Out of Balance
Climb A Question of Balance but continue out right using pockets. FA: Fred Nicole, 2004 | {FB} 8A | ||||
8 |
A Matter of Balance
A mega link-up of A Matter of Power and Out of Balance. FA: Matt Bosley, 2007 | {FB} 8A/A+ | ||||
9 |
★★ Tai Chi
The Ultimate Energy with the toehook beta | {FB} 7C/C+ | ||||
10 |
The Ultimate Energy
Tai Chi without toehooking (Tai Chi's first ascent method) | {FB} 8A | ||||
11 |
★★★ Sunset Arête
Listed as a classic in the guidebook Start with both hands just above the roof and climb the obvious hanging prow FA: Fred Nicole, 1996 | {FB} 7C | ||||
12 |
★★★ Nutsa
Crouch-start with crimps and climb into Sunset Arete. FA: Fred Nicole, 2000 | {FB} 8A | ||||
13 |
Nut Sack
Sit-start below prow (The base is lower after rocks were moved). FA: Giuliano Cameroni, 2016 | {FB} 8A+ | ||||
14 |
★★ Vertige / Vertigo
From the large undercling climb diagonally left up the face. Top out as sunset traverse. | {FB} 6B+ | ||||
15 |
★★★ Sunset Traverse
Sit-start on the right in the corner and traverse into Vertige. Listed as a classic in the guidebook | {FB} 7A | ||||
16 |
★★★ Freaking Heights
Start as Vertige but climb straight up through the small roof. | {FB} 6C | ||||
17 |
★★ Sunset Freak
Sunset Traverse into Freaking Heights. | {FB} 7A | ||||
18 |
★★ Tremdel
Sit-start with crack, climb out right and up the high arete. | {FB} 6C+ | ||||
19 |
★★ Tyrolean Traverse
Climb Tremdel but climb out left on thin holds. (Direct without jug, see: Tyrolean Traverse (harder) | {FB} 7B | ||||
20 |
Tyrolean Traverse (harder)
Direct without jug on the right FA: Fred Nicole, 1996 | {FB} 7B+/C | ||||
21 |
More Balance
Sit Start | 7C+ | ||||
22 | The Great Depression | 7A+ |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
6B+ | ★★ | Vertige | |||
6C | ★★★ | Freaking Heights | |||
6C+ | ★★ | Tremdel | |||
7A | ★★ | Sunset Freak | |||
★★★ | Sunset Traverse | ||||
7A+ | The Great Depression | ||||
7B | ★★★ | A Question of Balance | |||
Giftla | |||||
★★ | Tyrolean Traverse | ||||
7B+/C | Tyrolean Traverse (harder) | ||||
7C | ★★★ | Sunset Arête | |||
7C/C+ | ★★ | Tai Chi | |||
7C+ | ★★ | A Matter of Power | |||
More Balance | |||||
8A | ★★★ | Baboon Master | |||
★★★ | La Gloire Des Papous | ||||
★★★ | Nutsa | ||||
★★★ | Out of Balance | ||||
The Ultimate Energy | |||||
8A/A+ | A Matter of Balance | ||||
8A+ | Nut Sack | ||||
8C | ★★★ | Monkey Wedding | 4m |