Routes as sport in South Africa

5 meters to the right of Willows Way, a small crack line leads into a bulge. Climb the crack and pull through the bulge on small but good holds. Then, over easy ground to the anchors.

Start in the small recess. Climb the corner and move out to the arete when possible. Follow the crack line and then pull through some overhangs to the top. Easy but technical first 10 meters.

Starts to the right of too legit to quit, takes the obvious crack line through the roof, easy pulling through nice overhangs.

Starts left of Too Legit to Quit. Are you👆 going left or right at the roof?

open project through the roof, estimation 23 to confirm

This climb starts on the far left of the Goat Face about 50m on the other side of the fence. (Squeeze through fence next to the rock face). Climb up just to the right of a vegetated recess.

Starts just left of Intrusion, abseil possible with a single 60m rope.

This climb starts below a wide dihedral/open book, about 25m to the left of a large flake with a tree at its base.

Starts at the foot of the first scramble up the gulley. Pitches 1+2 and 4+5 can be combined.

Climb the arête on the left of the dome. The route starts in the gully after a short scramble. Note: The first 2 and the last 2 pitches can be combined.

This route starts 25m to the left of Where Eagles Dare and joins that route at the last pitch.

This climb starts at a strange pocket feature at the base of the wall 40m from the left arête. Pitches 1+2 and 5+6 can be combined.

Start 10m to the right of Where Eagles Dare at a block. Note: If a party has to escape off the climb from the top of pitch 4 and has only a single rope, it is recommended to traverse right onto the ledge after pitch 5 of BDND or to abseil down pitch 4 below in 2 sections leaving some gear on one of the hangers just above the bulge.

Start just to the left of the bushes to the left of the start of BDND. Notes: The pitches are longer than 30m so to escape off the climb you have to do the following: For pitches 1 and 3 – traverse right into BDND. For pitch 2 Abseil diagonally down right onto the big ledge of BDND.

This 140m route follows the most prominent feature (large scar in the face) on the left hand side of the main wall of the dome. This was the first route opened at Wellingtons Dome and the bottom half was initially opened on trad. Start just to the right of a bush at the base of the dome below the large prominent recess.

Start as for Big Dreamers Never Die.

1. Climb straight up just to the right of the grey water mark.

2. Climb up to the right of the tree and left above the large ledge and up a ramp to a small ledge shared with BDND.

3. Climb up the crack/flake on the right to its top, then traverse left for 4m into the big recess (crux). Climb up the recess (sustained) until one reaches an awesome large shady ledge with chains. This is the same as pitch 5 of BDND

4. Traverse right over a tree into the base of a recess. Climb up the recess and at its top move up right into an exposed position on the nose. Climb up from there to the top.

Starts approximately 50m right of BDND.

Start to right of WWOF up broken recess to right of flake crack.

This climb is located slightly right of the center of the main face. It takes a straight line to the top, avoiding roofs and corners and provides pure face climbing.

Start to the far right off a ramp with a Smart Car sized block on it. Note: There is an Black Eagles nest near the climb so avoid the climb in winter months.

Climb up straight from Raptors, 2 pitches further

This climb starts up a small corner to the left of a tree. Pitch 1 Climb up the corner until one can step up right onto a large foothold on the nose. Then traverse left (crux) for 5m, after which continue up on easier ground to the chains.

This climb starts up the crack to the right of a deep corner/crack, about 10m right of Rhamses Ramrod.

Climb up the crack system just to the right of Tutankhamuns Touche starting up the pillar on the left.

Climb up the pillar with brown water marks. 1st pitch up the face on small crimps. 2nd pitch up the slab.

Leftmost route on the west side of Sarcophagus about 50m left of the right hand arête. Go up the slab rightwards. Share chains with Dancing with Anubis

Go up the slab leftwards. Share chains with Archimedes Screw

Start just to the left of Eye Of Osiris and go up black rock just to the left of a large flake.

Start from a block, straight up the pillar.

Start down next to the block right of Eye Of Osiris, follow up the small crack / water mark. Thin exit up slab. This is the rightmost climb on the west face.

Up to bolt then right to share chains of Loula

To the right of Surami. Starting in the small crack in the open book, the head left up the main crack

Same starting place as "Just for kicks". Move on right along a traverse

Route can be top roped, else 1bolt+Anchors

Route starts at the granite slab, then up the crack, out right and up to the anchors. Use the crack and stay left for 15. Use the face right of the crack for 18. (Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis use the same anchors.)

Straight up the face of the bulge. (Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis use the same anchors.)

Use the crack then over the top to the anchors. (Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis use the same anchors.)

Right of the crack, awkwardly through the corridor and step over to a thin face before easy finish. Probably around grade 16/17.

5m left of MBT, start at flake under the tree. Consistent on thin flakes until the bulge.

This nice climb starts a few meters to the right of the route "My Big Toe". There are some run outs in this route. The route was done by climbing and bolting from the bottom without prior establishing of bolts bias the use of a top rope.

The line of bolts following the off-width crack is Scorpion. The bolt line to the left of the crack is direct start. Variation pitch is a grade 23.

1. 19, 20m 10 bolts. Belay on big ledge

2. 16, 30m 5or6 bolts. Belay in big scoop

3. 10, 35m 2 bolts. Top out(Climb for the view)

The line of bolts following the off-width crack is Scorpion. The bolt line to the left of the crack is direct start. Variation pitch is a grade 23.

1. 19, 20m 10 bolts. Belay on big ledge

2. 16, 30m 5or6 bolts. Belay in big scoop

3. 10, 35m 2 bolts. Top out(Climb for the view)

When Abseiling and you're using 60 meter ropes, use the chains you pass as you climb pitch 3. The abseil is only 5 meters between the two point but necessary. You will be caught short on a 60 meter rope.

1. ** 23, 22m Starts to the left of the elephant's trunk. On balance, small holds on a relatively smooth surface. Crux 1/3 of the way up, then straight forward to the top

2. ** 19, 23m Start right to avoid loose slab, then left under the boulder, continue left over dassie shit - worst section on this climb

3. * 18, 23m Starts from a small cave through which on can see under the elephant to the other side of the rock face. Route moves over to the left past the elephant's ear.

4. * 17, 22m Route moves directly up to just short of the top.

5. ** 15, 10m Short easy finish.

Starts on the left side of the hut at the open book in the corner. There are 2 seperate anchors is on top of the bolder. Mainly used for youth abseil and top rope.

Starts on the right side of the hut on the granite slope. The route moves directly up. Ideal for beginners sport climbing.

This line is the first sport route to the summit of Ngopane, taking three pitches up the eastern arete.

1. (16, 35m): Start on the very thin, low-angle slab at the base of the eastern arete to bigger holds after the third bolt. Follow the undulating terrain to the first stance.

2. (12, 18m): Move up from the stance, then right to the arete to the comfortable ledge.

3. (14, 50m): Pull the thin move off the ledge to easier ground above until you reach a second ledge. Pull a bulge on good holds, then move up and right to the summit ridge. Follow the narrow ridge to the summit anchors.

Descent: Abseiling twice (from the top of third and second pitches) with two 50m ropes will get you to the ground - just!

Climb the centre of the slab immediately behind the tower, on the head-wall. Long, sustained route.

Start right of the water berry tree on the easy steps up and move left to find the first clip on a bulging corner. The next few bolts are fairly steep and technical climbing, followed by a generous rest on a podium after the 5th bolt. Step further left around the slabby corner to climb the arête moving through glossy rock, a series of balancey step ups to a working rest next to a small tree. Now move right through the exposed crux of the route, follow the bolts to the chains.

Follow the bolts to the left of an overhanging bulge directly below the obvious pinnacle on the right side of the crag (facing the crag). Follow the open book to a large ledge. Beware a large loose overhanging block to the right, above the second bolt! Continue up the open book through an obvious slot to the rings. Make sure to extend the anchors when top-roping to avoid rope drag. The anchors can be reached by scrambling up the gulley behind the pinnacle - skirt the top of the pinnacle from this gulley, scrambling leftwards until reaching the rings.

Move up the open book, traverse to the right and then keep to the right of the bolts, past a large ledge, to the anchors.

Route follows the obvious, stepped overlap in the centre of the face on the left of the Picnic Sector. Follow the bolts, trending to the left to a set of hangers. Original top anchors replaced in 2021, with rings to allow rapping.

This route starts on Squeaky Staircase, moving right after clipping the third bolt and then comp[leting the rest of Hidey-Holds.

Follow the arete to the right of Squeaky Staircase to two glue-in staples. Be careful not to Z-clip when clipping the second bolt.

Climb the short line of bolts to the left of Incy Wincy Spider, keeping to the left wall of the latter's open book until the line pushes you into a large crack on the right.

Follow the arête to the right of the face containing Waterspout. The route starts steeply, but eases off considerably after the second bolt.

Immediately to the right of Spin-Arete, follow the line of bolts up the centre of the small face. Shares the fourth bolt with Damhan-Allaidh and ends at the top anchors of Spin-Arete.

Climb the arete immediately to the right of Gossamer, following the line of bolts. Shares the fourth bolt with Gossamer and ends at Spin-Arete's chains.

This climb follows the north-eastern arete of the free-standing pinnacle to the left of Real Regal Eagle.

5m right of Real Regal Eagle head up a broken crack system on a series of fins. An exciting lead.

Climb the arete on the eastern side of entrance to the gully (true left). The route tends to the right, following the arete. There is a fair amount of rope drag - probably best to belay from the top. Anchors are hangers, placed horizontally on the top of the crag - take along slings to extend these over the edge. Either walk off to the north or abseil from Silence of the Lambchops's rings.

Climbs the arête between 'Clime Of The Century' and 'The Cruise'. Bolted.

15 using the open book. 17 using the thin face on the right without the left corner.

Climb the left hand side of the Lower Area. Starting behind a tree, climb up steep rock and move diagonally right to a groove. Climb this to the top. The tree you start behind has a bees nest halfway up the tree. The climb was first opened ground up on trad trending more left at the start and then up right. The direct bolted variation is about 24. Use the rightmost bolts at the start.

Steep line first opened on natural gear.

Start from the river bed at the base of the boulders, a spot is a good plan here to stop the climber falling backward into the rock. Continue up as for 'Vandals'. This variation adds a bit of pump to the already sustained 'Vandals'.

Starts on 'Vandals', uses the first 3 bolts of 'Vandals' then breaks right onto 'Hoodlum' and continues on 'Hoodlum' to the top.

Steps out over the pool. Tend leftwards to finish on 'Vandals' chains.

A classic sustained route, a must do!

A complex and sequential sport journey, not a give away at its grade! It was the first 31 in the country even though there was no 30 yet at the time. The direct start is grade 32.

Start in the upstream facing corner of BREAKING THE RULES before moving left onto the face above. A good, pumpy route.

Starts just right of the arete moving up slightly rightwards up to a cubby hole with chains on the left of this. This route has been recently re-bolted.

Start just left of the leaning tree, a fun route.

The climb ascends the slab above the first pool, opposite the MIRROR MIRROR wall. Traverse in rightwards above the water and up the seam via a mantleshelf move.

Route tops out

Climbs a line that curves rightwards to share the chains with ACROMAX.

The third bolted line downstream from the big pool, starting at the undercling just left of the tree. A short bouldery route, pack in the power.

Starts just right of the tree, 2m right of ACROMAX. If you use the tree, the grade drops to 22.

Climb the groove 3m right of ACROMAX.

Note: Retrobolted by Neil Margetts (with permission)