28m (24) Start as for Incy Wincy Spider. At the first rail, move left and then up over easy ground aiming for the bottom part of the darker grey face. At this point, there is a sickle-shaped flake up and right (very loose). Traverse 1m left at the finger rail and then straight up the steep face to the next set of rails. Move 1.5m left and follow the right side of the vague arête, then up the short slab to the narrow ledge. Stance at an old peg and ring.
15m (25) Bring small and micro cams for this pitch. Place a high wire on the Bust Up pitch, and then move back down and left across the blunt arête. Follow the good holds just left of the arête until the wall blanks out. From the undercling, traverse ~2m left using two small uncut holds and then up to a large side-pull below a handrail. Head straight up past some large pockets to a rail below the roof (and garden above). Move slightly right to a hanging stance with a good foothold.
Pitch 3. 20m (22) Traverse right, under the Bust Up roof flake, and all the way to join the last few moves of Uber Huber. Abseil from fixed gear to the start of the route. If you want to top out, traverse right then join Bust Up.
Aug 2015 | First ascent:
Richard Halsey, J. Theron & G. Lipinska P1: R. Halsey, W. Gans |
---|
24, 25, 22 | Assigned grade |
★★Scurvy |
Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing
Login to see the timeline!