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Description

This area lies in a hidden gully parallel to the main gully but closer to the Snake Charmer area.

Access issues inherited from Truitjies Kraal

You need a permit to climb at Truitjies Kraal, permits are obtainable from the Kromrivier office. Wildcard or MCSA cardholders can get the permits for free.

Approach

From the central parking, follow a well marked path that runs parallel to the road and keeping some smaller crags on your left. Follow the cairns right, up, and onto some rock slabs. Scramble up and over boulders to access the hidden gully. The routes are on the left wall.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: J. Gordon, 2016

Climb the obvious diagonal crack on first buttress. Lower from Fynhoud chains.

FA: Mike Scott, Patrick McCann & Adele McCann, 2002

FA: A. von Hase & M. Gowans, 2015

FA: M. Gowans, 2015

Route on second buttress in alley. Climbs obvious lay back at 1/3rd height, then steep jugs to top.

FA: Patrick McCann, Mike Scott & Adele McCann, 2002

FA: J. Gordon, 2016

Climb arête on left corner of third buttress to lower off chains

FA: Mike Scott, Patrick McCann & Adele McCann, 2004

FA: Cormac Tooze, 2011

Set by M Gowans & A. von Hase

FA: Amrei van Hase, 2013

FA: Malcolm Gowans, 2011

FA: Malcolm Gowans, 2013

Route on fourth buttress. Climbs obvious diagonal open book (near arch).

FA: Mike Scott, Patrick McCann & Adele McCann, 2004

Climb to lower offs at top. Well protected. Small cam protects exit move to lower offs.

FA: Mike Scott, Patrick McCann & Adele McCann, 2010

FA: Mike Scott, Patrick McCann & Adele McCann, 2010

Set by Javier Gutierrez & Malcolm Gowans

FA: Javier Gutierrez, 2014

FA: Malcolm Gowans & Amrei von Hase

Start at tree as for alternate start to Moulin Rouge. Climb up past cauliflower feature, to vertical crack at 2/3rd height (crux) and then jugs to top. A large nut (BD size 13) is useful for the vertical crack. (now bolted as an average sport route - better as a trad climb)

FA: Patrick McCann & Adele McCann, 2014

FA: Patrick McCann & Josie McCann, 2014

Set by Patrick McCann

FA: Mike Scott, 2015

FA: Patrick McCann, 2015

Activity

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