Lekker Time Buttress All Trad climbing 6 routes in cliff

1. 25m 21. Climb up the easy ramp. Crank onto the grey face and then head up the seam on the orange-red face to a thin rail below the overhang. Crank through toa juggy rail then crank strenuously out right on grey jugs to attain a balancy face. Move up and left to a ledge. Alternative Pitch 1: 25m 16 or 18. Climb the left facing corner on the left of the standard start. Make it more interesting by moving right after into the steep left facing corner after 7 or 8m.

2. 45m 16. Continue up the faces and flakes heading onto the arête on perfect rock to a ledge below the large overhangs. (Stance shared with “Lekker Time”.

3. 20m 19. Head up past the fixed cam to the roof rail with lay-backs and or hand jambs Rail right to the lip and continue up the face to the left of Fun Time’s crack to belay on top of the large gendarme on the left. (Small cairn). Alternative 3. 20m 17. Climb up the gulley on the left to the large obvious rail on the right wall. Traverse out to the arete and then climb airily up it to a stance. (This pitch can be combined with pitch 4.

4. 40m 16. Step across the gap and move left and follow corners and cracks upwards to belay on a ledge below and slightly down from a distinctive square orange rock scar.

5. 25m 16. Climb past the rock scar 2-3m to the right and continue diagonally left on excellent rock and good holds to stance on a large ledge shared with Lekker Time.

6. 50m 20. Climb carefully up the mottled black recess on dodgy looking flakes but excellent pro just left of Lekker Time. Once the angle eases step left 3m and climb the grey panels of rock parallel to Lekker Time.

7. 20m 19. Pull up onto the slab and head towards a slot in the overlap, just to the left of Lekker Time’s crux. Pull up into the slot and then up to the next slot. Then head up to the roof to the semi hanging stance under the overhang where shade on a hot day may be welcome.

8. 15m. 23. Crank strenuously through the overhang on good pro and then easily up to the stance. (You can also easily escape to the right if the crack through the roof seems a little daunting.

Descent: Walk along the ledge system in a south-westerly direction for about 100m to the Timerity Abseil.

1. 40m (15) Climb up a shallow left facing corner to a ledge. Walk right a few metres and climb steep, juggy rock tending slightly left. Belay on a small ledge below a short steep orange face. (Or start straight up and pull through the overhang (16))

2. 20m (17) Climb the short face and find your way more or less straight up to a left facing recess. A small nut protects the next move. Climb up under the small overhang and search for a small but good hold that you use with your left hand to step round right onto the arete. Continue to a ledge with blocks under a large overhang. (The "small hold" move can be avoided by fighting your way past a yellow wood tree on the left.)

3. 25 (17) Climb up and head right to the arete. Climb till you are level with the overhang. If you can't or won't fist jamb you are going to find the next move hard. Then continue more easily to a large ledge and belay at the base of a massive block. You are now on top of the pillar.

4. 25m (16) Move your belay by walking around to the back of the block on its right. Climb up and head diagonally left first on cleanish grey rock but heading for the darker lichen covered rock. Find somewhere to stance after about 25m as pitch 4 and 5 combined is 70m.

5. 40m (17) Climb carefully on gnarly lichen covered rock (but positive holds) heading left! Do not be tempted to go straight up as it is chossy. Stance at the obvious ledge below a right facing corner system.

6. 45m (17) Climb 3m or so carefully on juggy holds but swing left 2 metres or so before the overlap above. Going straight up is harder but there is a medium size cam placement above you that you may want to use before stepping left. Once you place the cam reverse a move or two and then swing left. Continue up clean steep juggy cracks to belay before the final overhangs on a large block.

7. 30m (16) Climb up and right to the notch. Crank up and then move left to a point where the overhang is at its smallest. Be careful about using extenders on your pro so as to not incur drag. Climb up and then diagonalright to the skyline on slabby rock. Continue up the crack and find your way to a grassy ledge.

Descent is an elegant and safe 3 abseils.

Walk horizontally right and a bit down for about 100m along a ledge system capped by an overhang. Where the overhang ends look down to see a grey square shaped flat block where there is a bolted abseil point.

1. Abseil 45m to a bolted stance

2. Abseil 35m to the next bolted stance.

3. Abseil the way with sixties. You can abseil to a ledge system with fifty metre ropes and walk off left (west) along a ledge system and to an easy scramble down/

This is a 4 or 5 pitch route depending on your appetite for long pitches and rope drag. It is a short walk up from the water drip at the start of Divine Time and starts about 20m left of Adventure Time.

There is only one tricky move on the first pitch at around 6m past a bomber nut placement.

It exits easily and spetacularly round the the left of the top overhangs.

It is shady all morning and quick allowing for the option of doing another route on the day

Start: Take off from the Snotter Camp up the easy ramp just left of the water drums.

1. 12 (30m). Find your way to a wide ledge which is shared with Timerity and Another Fck’n Time.

2. 17 (25m). Start up the recess. After 5m, traverse left 5m to round the awkward bulge. Do not stray into the cClimb the clean face above by staying left of the corner, to a rising traverse eft on the best holds before the angle increases. Stance around the corner in the obvious deep recess.

3. 20 (20m). Climb up the right wall of the recess and crank on to the arete. Continue to the overhang above and move left to climb more easily to a ledge with bolted anchors on the last Timerity Abseil.

4. 18 (35m). Climb directly up above the bolts to the overlap and crank through on the right to a large ledge. Climb the grey-black arete on the right side (in common with Timerity) to below the bushy gulley. Move left and climb the left leaning ramp to a ledge. Belay at the abseil bolts on Timerity.

5. 18 (20m). Climb the left leaning ramp past the overhang and then step right to attain a left leaning crack. Climb this for a metre or two and then leave the crack to climb up the face to a small standing ledge.

6. 25(20m). Climb up the slightly left leaning grey break to where the rock becomes yellow and orange to an obvious under-cling. Do tricky move up and right to the overhang. Place small good cams and move left two metres. Crank the crux on thin holds and continue to a good rail. (Small cams). Finish easily to stance in the shady walk-off cave on blocks.

7. ???26 (40) WORK in progress. The Brotality Roof. Walk left about 40m and stance at the same place as Timerity 6th pitch. Find your way to the roof and fight your way through it with or without aid moves.