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Don Quijote

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 94
  • Aka: Coro Alto

Access: COVID-19: Lockdown

The Spanish government has imposed a national lockdown to stop the spread of the COVID-19 virus from March 14.

For Margalef and Siurana even explicit climbing bans were issued.

https://www.lamoncloa.gob.es

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Created 10 weeks ago - Edited 7 weeks ago

Seasonality

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Description

==[en]==

Large sector in the center of the Casucho riff. To get there go to the left from 'Steinschleuder' or to the right from 'Horzelbub' on small trails. Steep climbing on very abrasive rock up to 25m on some beautiful natural lines are the positive facts the extreme sun trap after noon is the opposite point.

==[de]==

Grosser Sektor in der Mitte vom Casucho. Zustieg entweder rechtshaltend vom 'Horzelbub' oder linkshaltend von der 'Steinschleuder' am Wandfuss entlang. Steiler und zum Teil sehr rauer Fels mit einer Höhe von bis zu 25m. Einige Wege folgen schönen Linien entlang von Rissen und Verschneidungen. Die Sonne erreicht den Sektor gegen Mittag.

==[es]==

Sector grande en el centro del Casucho. Acceder al pie de la pared desde 'Horzelbub' o 'Steinschleuder'. Roca buena y muy vertical con una altura hasta 25m. Unas vías hermosas siguen fisuras y diedros. El sol entra aproximadamente al mediodía.

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History

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hzQXOMuiYE

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Montaraz Climbing Club (Copyright Montaraz Climbing Club)

Routes

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Grade Route

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Ramon Cadalas, 14 Dec 2015

FA: Ramon Cadalas, 14 Dec 2015

==[en]==

The corner to the left of the small pillar leads to a steep headwall with pockets. Go right at the end to the anchors of 'Rucio' .

==[de]==

An der linken Rissverschneidung vom Pfeiler zur löchrigen und steilen Headwall dann nach rechts und wie 'Rucio' aussteigen.

==[es]==

Pasar el diedro izquierdo del espolón (fisura) a la pared vertical. Se reúne con 'Rucio' al llegar a la penúltima chapa.

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Mirko & Nicky, 11 May 2012

FA: Mirko & Nicky, 12 May 2012

==[en]==

Homogeneous face climbing on good pockets. Same anchors as 'Rosinante'.

==[de]==

Homogene Wandkletterei an teils scharfen Löchern zum gemeinsamen Umlenker mit 'Rosinante'.

==[es]==

Escalada vertical y homogénica con buen agarre. La misma reu como 'Rosinante'.

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Mirko & Nicky, 11 May 2012

FA: Nicky & Mirko, 12 May 2012

==[en]==

The small pillar from the ground leads to a crack with good pockets and crimps. Before you climb to the right chain a awkward move up to the ledge is waiting on you.

==[de]==

Über kleinen Pfeiler hin zur markanten Rissverschneidung an schönen Löchern und Leisten hin zum abdrängenden Überhang weiter nach rechts zum Umlenker.

==[es]==

Un pequeño espolón lleva a una fisura con buenos agujeros y listones. Poco antes de girar a la derecha te espera un movimiento algo raro.

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Mirko & Nicky, 10 May 2012

FA: Mirko & Nicky, 13 May 2012

Set by Mirko & Nicky, 12 Dec 2015

==[en]==

Reachy and sustained pocket pulling with poor footholds are the first crux of this nice climb. At the top it also takes the crux of 'Don Quijote' and the same anchors.

==[de]==

Ausdauernde Lochkletterei mit Crux im Überhang führt zu steiler Tropflochplatte. Am Ende noch über die Crux vom 'Don Quijote' hin zum gemeinsamen Umlenker.

==[es]==

Escalada persistente y desplomada con malos puntapiés (primera crux) y pared vertical a la crux de 'Don Quijote' y a la misma reu.

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Mirko & Nicky, 12 May 2012

FA: Nicky & Mirko, 13 May 2012

==[en]==

An enjoyably and long dihedral with a thin finish.

==[de]==

Schöne und lange Verschneidungskletterei hin zur kleingriffigeren Crux kurz vor dem Umlenker - sehr zu Empfehlen.

==[es]==

Escalda larga de diedro con una crux fina al llegar a la reu.

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Mirko & Nicky, 12 May 2012

FA: Nicky & Mirko, 13 May 2012

==[en]==

Homogeneous face climbing on good pockets with a slightly sustained finish.

==[de]==

Homogene Wandkletterei an teils scharfen Löchern mit Ausdauerfinale.

==[es]==

Escalada vertical y homogénica con buen agarre.

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Mirko & Nicky, 13 Dec 2015

FA: Anika, 13 Dec 2015

1 6a
2 6b+

==[en]==

Steep face climbing with an interesting finish. Stop at the anchors of 'Aldonza' for a 6a.

==[de]==

Steile Wandkletterei mit schönem Ausstieg der etwas Übersicht verlangt. Für eine 6a am Umlenker von 'Aldonza' abseilen.

==[es]==

Escalada vertical con una salida a la reunion interesante. 6a hasta la reunión de 'Aldonza'.

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 16 Oct 2012

FA: Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 16 Oct 2012

==[en]==

Interisting and varied route that shares the last bolt and the anchor with 'Aldonza'.

==[de]==

Interessante und abwechsulgsreiche Route, teilt sich den letzten Bolt und den Umlenker mit 'Aldonza'.

==[es]==

Vía interesante y variada, comprate el ultimo bolt y la reu con 'Aldonza'.

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Calodedio & Mirko, 10 Jan 2016

FFA: Calodedio, 10 Jan 2016

==[en]==

This enjoyable moderate climbing follows a small pillar to the lower anchors.

==[de]==

Folgt einer Rampe in genüsslicher Kletterei zum Stand in Wandmitte.

==[es]==

Escalada placentera siguiendo una rampa a la reunion en el medio de la pared.

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 16 Oct 2012

FA: Carlos Tudela & Calodedio, 16 Oct 2012

==[en]==

Nice pocket pulling. The crux is a bit more sustained as you might expect.

==[de]==

Schönes Lochgehangel mit anhaltender Crux.

==[es]==

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Calodedio & Mirko, 5 Jan 2015

FA: Mirko, 5 Jan 2015

==[en]==

Technical start and finish with huge jugs in between to pull trough.

==[de]==

Technischer Ein- und Ausstieg und dazwischen ein paar riesen Henkel zum durchziehen.

==[es]==

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Alejandra Risquez & Calodedio, 24 Jul 2013

FA: Alejandra Risquez & Calodedio, 25 Jul 2013

==[en]==

The awkward start might give you a good pump.

==[de]==

Wer am Start schon viel falsch macht wird sich oben über die dicken Arme beschweren.

==[es]==

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Alejandra Risquez, Calodedio & Ximof, 18 Aug 2013

FA: Ximof & Calodedio, 18 Aug 2013

==[en]==

The route on the left end of 'Coro Alto' offers a good climb on a dihedral, face and a bulge. It might be interesting for beginners due to the number of bolts.

==[de]==

Linker Weg im 'Coro Alto' Sektor durch schöne Verschneidung, Wand und einen Bauch. Geringe Hakendichte - gut für Vorstiegsaspiranten.

==[es]==

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Calodedio & Carlos Tudela, 19 Nov 2015

FA: Calodedio & Carlos Tudela, 19 Nov 2015

==[de]==

Kniffliger Einstieg und dann Verschneidung. Wer den Baum am Einstieg mitbenutzt, macht es sich leichter. Selber Umlenker wie 'Telendos'.

==[en]==

An awkward start is followed by a dihedral. Who uses the tree avoids the crux. Same anchors as 'Telendos'.

==[es]==

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Calodedio & Carlos Tudela, 19 Nov 2015

FA: Calodedio & Carlos Tudela, 19 Nov 2015

==[en]==

Dihedral, a overhang and sustained pocketing - well worth it.

==[de]==

Verschneidung, Überhang und Ausdauerhenkel - sehr lohnend.

==[es]==

Diedro, un desplome y agujeros en constancia - vale la pena.

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Rafa Sorribes, 12 Oct 2014

Set by Mirko & Calodedio, Feb 2020

==[de]==

In schöner und abwechslungsreicher Kletterei bis zum letzten Bolt. Dann etwas exponiert mit Rechtsschleife zur Crux kurz vorm Umlenker: Guten Flug!

==[en]==

Nice and diversified climbing until the last bolt. Now comes the expo and right bending crux: Have a nice flight!

==[hash]==

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_10mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Set by Enric Muñoz, 11 Oct 2014

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