Nice layback climbing

Dihedral to short splinter followed by a airy but juggy finish.

Perfect handjams at the start a easy dehidral afterwards and a nice head wall.

Perfect handjams at the start a easy dehidral afterwards and a nice head wall.

Nice layback climbing

Dihedral to short splinter followed by a airy but juggy finish.

Same anchors as 'Chincheta'

Está a la izquierda de la Ley de Brandolini. Había una hiedra que se ha secado y por eso hemos podido abrirla. Entra por fisura-diedro, pasa por una repisa y termina en una placa vertical.

Entra por fisura, sigue por placa inclinada y acaba por ligero desplome con buen canto.

Entra por fisura, sigue por placa inclinada y acaba por ligero desplome con buen canto.

Empieza por una chimenea, continúa en travesía a la izquierda por una repisa y termina por placa inclinada.

Empieza por una chimenea, continúa en travesía a la izquierda por una repisa y termina por placa inclinada.

Por placa se sube a repisa, sigue por chimenea y se termina por la placa de la izquierda.

Por placa se sube a repisa, sigue por chimenea y se termina por la placa de la izquierda.

Same start as 'Neilo' left trending afterwards.

Clipstick for the start recommended but the crux is the finish.

A clipstick might ease the start

Same start as 'Neilo' left trending afterwards.

Clipstick for the start recommended but the crux is the finish.

starting to the right of Luziernaga and crossing it where the crack goes right. 8 bolts and a chain on top. Tough sequence with a great hidden hold in the upper part. My belayer was scared watching me doing the crux. So when coming down from the first ascent I placed one more bolt there. Enjoy.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

The lower part up to the bulge is a nice 7a on mostly good holds with two tricky sequences. Shake well and long moves bring you to the lip. Where a long lock-off (at least for me) will try to spit you off. Clipping the last bolt is not easy and the last moves to the chain are pumpy.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

From the start of Luciernaga straight up through the steepest part of the wall. Cool boulder sequence with the best mono ever and a tiny little crimp. The top is a bit of endurance but should be no real problem, if you can rest well after the crux.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

A clipstick might ease the start

Por un zócalo fácil llegamos a una placa, levemente desplomada, que si se escala estrictamente por la fisura podría ser 6a+. Subimos a una pequeña repisa y por placa vertical llegamos al descuelgue.

Por un zócalo fácil llegamos a una placa, levemente desplomada, que si se escala estrictamente por la fisura podría ser 6a+. Subimos a una pequeña repisa y por placa vertical llegamos al descuelgue.

Unten glatter Kamin oben im linksbogen durch schönen Pfeiler.

Por abajo una chimenea lisa, arriba en el arco de la izquierda a través de un hermoso pilar

Below smooth chimney above in left arch through beautiful pillar

#bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Sara Juberias youtube

Starts 5 m to the right of 'El prepalo de Nando'. Little crack start, hard moves around the third bolt to get onto the ramp. Nice and easier pocket climbing leads to the top.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Nice face climbing with some tricky sequences. A good footwork helps.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Thin face climbing with long moves to a good rest. Powerful sequence to get to the tufas and then endurance to the last bulge. Pretty big holds to the chains.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Thin face climbing with long moves to a good rest. Powerful sequence to get to the tufas and then endurance to the last bulge. Pretty big holds to the chains.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Der Überhang kann schön mit einer Kurzen Rechtsquerung überwunden werden. Sehr abwechslungsreich.

The overhang can be nicely overcome with a short right crossing. Very varied.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Der Überhang kann schön mit einer Kurzen Rechtsquerung überwunden werden. Sehr abwechslungsreich.

The overhang can be nicely overcome with a short right crossing. Very varied.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Vorsicht an den Blöcken beim Ausspreizen in der Mitte - nicht zu weit nach Links!

Beware of the blocks when stemming in the middle - not too far to the left!

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Vorsicht an den Blöcken beim Ausspreizen in der Mitte - nicht zu weit nach Links!

Beware of the blocks when stemming in the middle - not too far to the left!

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Die Verlängerung von 'La Reina de los Gatos' fügt noch einige steile Züge in löschrigen Fels hinzu.

The extension of 'La Reina de los Gatos' adds some steep moves on nice pockets.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome

Die Verlängerung von 'La Reina de los Gatos' fügt noch einige steile Züge in löschrigen Fels hinzu.

The extension of 'La Reina de los Gatos' adds some steep moves on nice pockets.

#double_anchors #bolt_diameter_12mm #bolt_type_expansion #bolt_material_bi_chrome