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Fantasía

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Description

Beginner friendly sector off the main areas of Chulilla. Many routes in the 5s and lower 6s. The grading is not soft, but for medium to hard climbs you want to look elsewhere.

Comes into the shade in the afternoon.

More topos on climbmaps.com - registration required.

Approach

(39.635575, -0.877560)

Desde el parking al subir la rampa del mismo camino hacia la izquierda hasta ver a tu derecha una cadena con una señal de prohibido y un asfalto en mal estado, sigue ese asfalto hasta que veas un sendero de tierra que sube de forma pronunciada hacia la izquierda y síguelo.

Requiere una pequeña trepada de unos 3m, hay una cuerda vieja para ayudarse.

Una vez estés llegando al sector Colmillo, toma un sendero que va a la derecha para llegar a Fantasía.

From the parking opposite the Central Hidroeléctrica walk back the road towards Chulilla for ~125m.

On your right side a path will lead you slightly upwards and back towards the Central hidroeléctrica. Shortly before the path ends at a gate you can fork off to your left and scramble uphill past cactusses. A short and easy rock scramble can be overcome with the help of a fixed rope.

Looking up and left you can now very clearly see sector Pesadilla. Therfore you want to trend right and follow the walking path until you reach the left-hand side of sector Fantasía.

Ethic inherited from Chulilla

Si una vía pone "(L1+L2)", el grado se ha asignado escalando desde el suelo al final sin paradas (no es el grado de la segunda sección!). ¡Esto no son vías multilargo!. Casi todas las extensiones en Chulilla son graduadas desde el suelo, no por secciones.

When a line says "(L1+L2)" the grade is obtained by climbing from the ground in one push. These are not multipitch routes!. Almost all extensions are graded from the ground, not from the previous chain.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start right of "El colmillo". Follow the flakes up high.

L1 starts with a very gentle angle and big features. L2 is the more interesting section.

An unpublished variation to link 'Oh Carol' with the second section of 'Champagne para todos'.

An extension to either 'Oh, Carol' or 'Champagne para todos L1'.

A thin left trending crack leads you into an enjoyable dihedral. Crack climbing, stemming, lay back, the choice is yours. Unfortunately, very short.

An interesting corner is followed by a thin crux. The second half of the route is easier yet diverse.

New bolted line to the left of Gasolinera. Can be climbed to link P2 of Gasolinera. The name "Mujeres Tachades" is painted on the wall.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Pedro Pons

Date: 2022

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the sport climbing at Chulilla near Valencia, covering over 1,300 routes from F3 to F8c+, across 56 separate crags.

Author(s): Renaud Moulin & Jose Luis Palao

Date: 2019

A selective guidebook describing the best sport climbing areas around Castellón and Valencia, covering 16 main areas and 1,000's of routes.

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Fri 19 May
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