Barranco de las Peñitas Mostly Bouldering120 routes in crag
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An extensive bouldering area situated around the two prominent rocky peaks forming the Barranco de las Penitas. The rock here, a type of granite (monzonite) forms quality problems with many of the boulders having large scooped features and arêtes. It is these unique features that make the boulders in this area special and well worth a visit. There is a wide variety of problems ranging from lowball traverses to striking highballs throughout the grade range. There are over 100 problems currently documented here but many more exist in sectors spread around the area to be discovered although the information surrounding these is limited.
There are four main areas documented here spread over the peaks, this is by no means a definitive representation of all the bouldering. It covers many of the obvious problems and makes a good start to showing what is on offer, but with a little exploration you will easily find more problems and boulders. There is enough here for 4 days worth of climbing but with some exploration of the area there would be easily enough to sustain a week’s trip.
In addition to the bouldering circuits there are also numerous bolted sports routes on the slabs and some of the larger boulders of the Arch and Ravine areas. Some of the best and more popular routes have new bolts but many are in need of re-equipping. The best time to visit is from November to February for the coolest conditions. During warmer months local climbers often resort to night sessions for better conditions.
The information has been gleaned by James and Dave Turnbull from Greg Chapman’s very good topo for the Ravine and Valley areas and local activist Josafat Espino Lopez who developed many of the problems and shared information with James and Dave during a recent visit. Check out Josafat’s Youtube channel for many of the problems. Thanks to paulatword who made the contact to the Turnbull brothers and aqcuired the permission to use their informations here on theCrag. Original PDF
Please be aware the area is both a nature reserve and historically significant site so behave responsibly. Whilst climbing is permitted, it goes without saying leave the area as you found it, removing any litter, tick marks and excessive chalking.
Around 1km west of Pajara leave the FV-605 and follow FV-621 towards Ajuy. After just over 3km take a right (FV-627) and follow this for just over 1km to where the tarmac stops at a fork. Take the short steep RH fork and after 500m you will reach a large parking area in the dry river bed. The sectors covered here are all easily reached with short walks from the parking.
Remove any litter, tick marks and excessive chalking.
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