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Description

A compact area with a good spread of problems centred around the totally unique 10 metre arch.

Access issues inherited from Barranco de las Peñitas

Please be aware the area is both a nature reserve and historically significant site so behave responsibly. Whilst climbing is permitted, it goes without saying leave the area as you found it, removing any litter, tick marks and excessive chalking.

Approach

From the parking head towards the ravine but follow the tourist path left between the enclosures (signed ‘Sendero de la Penitas’). Follow this to a hairpin right but continue straight on towards a small building and walls. For the first boulders follow the small valley up towards the obvious large buttress. Alternatively for the main boulders continue up the faint ridgeline to the left and head underneath and round the back of the large buttress. Around 20-25 minutes from the car.

Ethic inherited from Barranco de las Peñitas

Remove any litter, tick marks and excessive chalking.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

SDS. From good holds at the lefthand end of the shelf and follow this leftwards. Can be finish at good flakes or continued along the lip at similar grade.

SDS. From holds in the back of the cave reach out to and follow the sloping shelf leftwards.

From good holds on the lip pull round into the scoop, finish easily up the slab. A cunning hands off photo opportunity can be found.

SDS. From obvious lefthand sidepull, climb the overhanging wall on slopey shelves to a jump to the lip.

Grade Unknown

Left side of the large scoop

Grade Unknown

Right arete of the large scoop. Looks hard and quality.

Estimated Grade

SDS. From the base of the scoop climb rightwards up the smooth sidewall to a sloping topout.

The attractive overhanging scoop to a 'psicológic' finish.

Grade Unknown

Hard looking right to left line on slopey holds.

Estimated Grade

Prow to a tricky looking finish.

Grade Unknown

Striking prow. Looks good and potentially hard.

Using a LH mono, rock up left into a polished scoop.

Rock up right into the polished scoop.

SDS. Layback the edge of the scoop on superb holds above a narrow landing. Good.

Grade Unknown

SDS. Hard looking moves on slopers.

Grade Unknown

SDS. Short overhanging wall.

Grade Unknown

SDS. Short overhanging arete/prow.

Left side of the large pillar forming the arch.

Estimated Grade

High wall up the front face of the pillar.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Arch.