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Contrafort de Rumbau

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Description

The main and mega cliff of the area, an awesomely steep barrel-shaped wall

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Adam Ondra, 10 Feb 2017

1 7c
2 8b+

La Dura Dura means 'The Hard Hard', named as such because it was then regarded as one of the hardest rock climb in the world by non other that Chris Sharma .

Chris tried the routes for years, describing it as "horrifyingly" difficult and perhaps "not for me", until he invited Adam to try. They figured new beta together and the route was finally freed by Adam Ondra in February 2013, the second 9b+ at the time (after Change 9b+ in Flatanger, also freed by Ondra)

Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra regard it as being slightly harder than Change. No other climber has managed to repeat it yet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

Ascents
:
  • Adam Ondra - 7 Feb 2013
  • Chris Sharma - 23 March 2013

FA: Adam Ondra

Set by Chris Sharma, 2009

FFA: Adam Ondra, 7 Feb 2013

Set by Dani Andrada

FA: Ramon Julian, 2 Nov 2010

Different start than Chaxi Raxi.

FFA: Chris Sharma, 2011

Set by Chris Sharma

FFA: Adam Ondra, 28 Mar 2011

FFA: Sam Elias, Mar 2014

Set by Sam Elias & Walker Emerson, Mar 2014

To the first anchors

Pitch one of La Marroncita

7a first pitch, 8b second.

Joe Blau into Marroncita Extension

FA: Patxi Usobiaga, Mar 2017

A resistance 50m route with limited rests, perfect rock and a sketchy slab finish.

Ascents

  • Chris Sharma - 31 May 2008
  • Adam Ondra - 24 Feb 2009
  • Ramón Julián Puigblanque
  • Sachi Amma
  • Cédric Lachat
  • Jakob Schubert
  • Domen Škofic
  • Magnus Midtbø
  • Mateusz Haladaj
  • Jonathan Siegrist
  • Daniel Woods
  • Matty Hong
  • Piotr Schab
  • Said Belhaj
  • Klemen Bečan
  • Patxi Usobiaga
  • Jon Cardwell
  • Felipe Camargo
  • Margo Hayes - 21 Mar 2019 - First Female ascent

FFA: Chris Sharma

Set by Chris Sharma

FA: Chris Sharma, 2008

This route connects Pachamama 9a+ and Papichulo 9a+ and was described by Adam Ondra as demanding "incredible power endurance without any rest."

Initially this connection seemed utterly extreme - perhaps even 9b+ like neighbouring Dura Dura freed by Ondra in 2013 - but was then rendered more "humane" when Ondra discovered a new sequence to get across the traverse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlGxVE_0uc

Ascents
:
  • Adam Ondra - 8 Feb 2017
  • Seb Bouin - 16 April 2019

FA: Adam Ondra, 8 Feb 2017

Set by Chris Sharma

FA: Chris Sharma, 2009

Set by Joe Kinder

FA: Klemen Becan, 1 Mar 2016

The route has a first part made of 25 very sustained movements graded 9a+, followed by a second 8c part with 12 movements including a dyno.

A knee bar has been found in the first crux (the sequence was downgraded from 8a to 7c+), however a hold has broken higher up on the dyno which makes it significantly harder to throw. All in all the route is still considered 9b

Ascents

  • Chris Scharma - 7 May 2011
  • Adam Ondra
  • Jakob Schubert
  • Sachi Amma
  • Piotr Schab

FA: Chris Sharma

FFA: Chris Sharma, 7 May 2011

Set by Chris Sharma

FA: Chris Sharma, 19 Dec 2010

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