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Es Pontàs

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Description

Known for Chris Sharma's difficult route, "Es Pontàs" was the second 9a+/9b in the world. "Es Pontàs" is well worth a visit, even just for the view. There are also some easier problems on the arch. However, the rock is very sharp and there are no bolts to hang on.

Access issues

According to locals, car break-ins are a regular occurance. Leave your car's glove box compartment open to show that there is nothing worth stealing. Do not leave anything valuable in the car.

Approach

Follow the path down to the cliffs and to a platform created by a ancient limestone quarry. From here, you can swim out to the arch.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Up the left-hand side of the arch.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 2005

Start on a small ledge about 2m above the water at the base of the pillar. Tackle the first boulder problem through a small roof and onto the overhang to reach slightly better holds. Continue on pinches and pockets before moving right into 'the barrel of the gun'. Here is the famous dynamic lunge from two undercuts to a large and hard-to-stick pocket. From the pocket, continue R via edges to the arete on the landward side of the arch. Follow slopers until you reach the centre of the arch and then onto the top. This line requires time, patience and near superhuman abilities to succeed.

FA: Chris Sharma, 2006

Up "Es Pontàs" to dyno then up for another 6m on a series of finger pockets to top out on the seaward side of the arch.

FA: Chris Sharma, 2005

Start as for "Es Pontàs" to the dyno but trend L to avoiding the dyno. Head straight up towards the lip and finish on the wall above.

Alternatively, there is a harder right-hand finish that links into the final moves of Pontax.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 2008

Starting from the right-hand side of the arch, climb over to the dyno of "Es Pontàs". Move left avoiding the dyno and continue up leftwards to finish as for Baby Sepia.

FA: Chris Sharma, 2005

Starting on the left-hand leg of the arch as you look out on the wall closest to Cala Santanyí beach. Up the middle right side of the blank-looking, seaward side wall on crimps and slots and pull onto easier ground.

FA: Dan Webber, 2009

An anti-clockwise route on the left pillar.

FA: Daimon Beail, 2003

Swim across the cove and then traverse to the next bay and continue to Cala Llombards. A good way to see the area.

FA: Daimon Beail, 2004

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