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Summary

Picturesque rock spire. True summit with summit register and a handful of trad routes with some bolts.

Description

Prominent rock spire 300 m uphill of the junction Cala Tuent-Sa Calobra, . Very limited parking shortly before the road crossed the narrow rock passage. Mostly 2-pitch trad-climbing with some bolts to a true summit with register. Beautiful boulders at the base, also the walls in the background look promising. Wear a helmet.

Approach

Between Sóller and Pollenca turn off towards the coast at the road to Sa Calobra. A VERY winding road with stunning views will keep you busy turning the steering weel for 15-20 min (on all accounts, avoid coming or going between 10:00 and 16:00, when the road is often clogged with tourist cars and busses). 50 m uphill a very narrow rock passage there is a viewpoint with limited parking. Walk through the rock passage and you'll stand below the rock tower.

History

View historical timeline

It seems the name of "Cavall Bernat" as mentioned in the summit register is disputed, as can be read there, too. Unfortunately the discussion is in Mallorquin, so if you can clarify things, please do so.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1 4 30m
2 4 25m

Easiest line, starting at the shortest side of the rock spire (south east corner).

  1. 30 m (4) Follow some pitons to the tree on the ledge halfway up the wall (slings for rappel).
  2. 25 m (4) Follow crack (left) or chimney (straight up) to slab and anchors. Summit register is somewhat hidden. Helmet recommended. (taken from sketch in summit register, not verified)
1 5 20m
2 6a 20m
3 5 20m

at east-side right of Via Normal.

  1. 20 m (5) follow bolts leading slightly to the right to anchors
  2. 20 m (6a) traverse left to crack in corner (2 pitons) that leads to tree on ledge (anchor of Via Normal);
  3. 20 m (5) traverse ledge to the right, follow chimney and slabs to the top. Small set of friends and rocks needed. Helmet recommended.
1 5+ 20m
2 6a 20m
3 5 20m

follow two old looking bolts in south-east side leaning right to first anchor of Via M. Small set of friends and rocks needed.

1 6b+ 30m
2 6b+ 30m
  1. 30 m (6b+ (5+ A1 obl.)) start in central East face at short blank and dark-looking overhanging section (6b+ or easy aid) over 2 glue-in bolts to ledge. Follow slab (2 bolts), left around to corner to left leaning crack (bolt), juggy overhang to anchor of Via Normal.
  2. 30 m (6b+ (5+ obl.)) pitch: keep right to blank slab (3 bolts, can be bypassed by using chimney behind tree) to easier terrain to the summit.

Small set of friends, rocks and slings needed. Helmet recommended.

FA: D. Page & T. Francke, 9 Apr 2010

1 4
2 5

(taken from sketch in summit register, not verified)

1 4
2 6a

north-east corner (taken from sketch in summit register, not verified)

Overhanging corner in west face. Details unknown.

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