Picaio Redó

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 7




Unspectacular cliff with easy to moderate routes on medium to poor rock quality overlooking a noisy highway .


With round about 20 routes, this is a rather small crag. The grade range is generally 5s and 6s. This is an entirely south facing crag, so winter will be the preferred time of climbing. Whether or not it's season, you'll most likely be alone at this crag.

The rock quality is rather poor as the wall consists of blocks of rock sitting on top of each other. Holds breaking or coming off is unfortunately not all too seldom here. Some glueing was applied at places to keep blocks in place.

The location of the crag on top of the hill offers a view. Unfortunately, the nearby highway is crossing just underneath - and that can also be heard as a constant background noise.

All in all you're probably better off driving a little bit further to Altura or Jérica.

Original topo and crag description by the route setters available as PDF, e.g. here:


From the parking ( 39.753292, -0.377075) next to a grey concrete hut follow a poorly marked footpath uphill for ten minutes to the base of the crag.

In case you leave your car down by the road, make sure not to block the passage of heavy machinery (tractors, delivery trucks, etc.). The road is frequently used by the residents of nearby Algima.

Where to stay

You don't want to stay for this one.

Ethic inherited from Comunidad Valenciana

  • The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
  • Don't toprope directly through anchors or bolts – use your own material instead.
  • Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
  • Don't leave toilet paper.
  • Pick up rubbish - also cigarette butts.
  • Park considerately (tractors should be able to pass also at the weekend).


View historical timeline

Routes bolted in 2010 by Nacho Aznar, Luís Compte, Asunción Vives, Carlos de Dios, Esther Fresneda, Ximo Fuertes, Tomas Vives, Rosa Real, Carlos Tudela.


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Grade Route

Climbing up the ramp is a short but worthwhile endeavour.

Slab with 1-2 tricky sections

Interesting climb with a crack that changes from right-hand to left-hand. A small bulge with good holds ends the climb.

The first line bolted on this crag.

Start below a small overhang. Good holds help you overcome it quickly. Some technical face climbing and good foot holds will see you past the most difficult part of the climb. Big holds on big blocks further up. Feels soft for a 6b+.

Actually a good climb, but a lot of loose rock lessens the joy.

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