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Peña María

  • Grade context: FR
  • Approach time: 2min
  • Photos: 8
  • Ascents: 60

Seasonality

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Description

Located at the base of Peña Maria mountain. A perfect summer destination. Part of the wall is in the shade all day. Trees provide additional shade.

The wide range of grades should offer something for everyone. Has a number of multi-pitch climbs that go to the top of Peña María.

Super short approach. Very kids friendly, too.

To get an impression of the crag, take a look at the following video:

https://youtu.be/3VGyvHfVyqw

Access issues inherited from Gestalgar

In July and August the parking under Peña Maria is not open for vehicles. You have to park 400m earlier on a bridge next to Fuente El Morinello.

Camping is not allowed.

Local Guidebook

You can support development and re-bolting of the area by buying the local guidebook (15€) from Club de deportes de montaña y escalada Peña María Gestalgar. It is for sale in bars in the nearby village of Gestalgar. Errors in the guidebook have been corrected here on theCrag to the best of our knowledge.

Approach

From the parking (39.600446, -0.853640), walk across the small footbridge towards the base of the mountain and you are already there.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Easy climb on the far left. Start holds a little bit polished

Right-hand variation of the first route that shares the same polished start

Start variant over the boulder. 6a+(?). Somebody need to confirm the grade.

The local guidebook (see Gestalgar) falsely reports an additional route here. The name of the additional route has been added as an Alternate name here on theCrag.

One hard crux move

The local guidebook (see Gestalgar) falsely reports an additional route here. The name of the additional route has been added as an Alternate name here on theCrag.

The local guidebook (see Gestalgar) falsely reports an additional route here. The name of the additional route has been added as an Alternate name here on theCrag.

Crimps and shallow pockets. Easy on top.

Enjoyable climb on good holds. Has a small crux about 2/3 up.

This route is missing in the local guidebook (see Gestalgar). If you know name, grade or bolter, please share it.

Rebolted by H. De La Cruz in 2019

Crimpy and technical vertical climb. Relax a bit when you reach the slab before the final bulge. You'll need some energy to conquer the bulge. The bolts feel a bit spaced.

Rebolted by H. De La Cruz in 2019

Set by D. Llopis

Rebolted by H. De La Cruz in 2019

Set by D. Llopis

Set by D Llopis

Set by Vacas

Set by Vacas

Set by Franki

Set by Vacas

Set by Vacas

Shares start with Fumando María and then crosses over the routes to its right.

Multi-pitch routes at Peña Maria

1 5+ 10m
2 3 35m
3 5 35m
4 6a+ 20m
5 5 15m
6 6a 20m

!! Warning !!

Any falling rocks from this route may injure sport climbers or visitors at the base of the crag below you.

Details and topo on elev-arte.com

Fully bolted. Material needed:

  • 60m rope
  • 16 quickdraws

It is possible to combine pitches 1+2 and 4+5.

Descent:
At the top of pitch 6, about 5 meters to the left, we find the line of rappels. Two rappels get you to ground from where you can go up a canal that leads onto the path (El PR). This path will take you back to the base of the crag.

Set by Bananas y Helios, 2012

1 5
2 4
3 5+
4 6b
5 4+
6 6a+
7 6b
8 6a+
9 3

More information on elev-arte.com

Set by Javier Martinez & Jesus Garcia, 2003

FA: Javier Martinez & Jesus Garcia, 2003

1 4 45m
2 5+ 25m
3 6b+ 35m
4 6a 35m
5 7a 35m
6 3

Description and topo on elev-arte.com.

Set by David Llopis y Santiago

1 6a 25m
2 7a+ 35m
3 6a+ 25m
4 7a 30m
5 6b+ 35m

Description and topo on elev-arte.com.

Set by Pau Vicente, 2015

1 5
2 6b
3 6c
4 6b
5 6b+
6 6b+
  1. Shares the same approach pitch as 'No a la guerra' - which is dirty and unspectacular. You then follow a steel cable to the right where the actual route starts.

  2. P2 leads straight up without any real problems and reaches a belay on a big block.

  3. P3 presents the crux right after the start then continues on easier terrain.

  4. P4 has the hardest part as well right after the start and then continues on easy and sometimes doubtful rock.

  5. P5 is the best pitch on the route and offers varied and some very exposed climbing.

  6. P6 has a final crux in a groove before reaching the top of Peña María.

Enjoy the view before heading down and left (east) to reach a marked path that takes you back to the base of the crag.

Route is fully bolted.

Material needed: 12 draws + anchor

More information:

http://www.enlavertical.com/vias/view/6529

Set by Pau Vicent

1 6a+ 35m
2 5+ 25m
3 6b+ 50m
4 6c 20m

Description and topo on elev-arte.com.

Set by Alvaro Saez & Pau Vicent, 3 Aug 2017

1 6a+ 34m
2 6c+ 30m
3 6c 18m
4 7a 30m

70m rope, 14 quickdraws, possible to rappel, 6a+ mandatory

Topo available in the local guidebook mentioned under Gestalgar.

Set by Larru, 2019

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Activity

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