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Ekoberget

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Summary

Hög och stor "strandklippa" ganska nära stan som bjuder på både trad och sportklättring i brett spann av grader.

Description

Some trad but mainly sport with in moderate grades. Mainly vertical and slab on very good and compact granit, making most of the climbs rather technical. Nice location by the water, with evening sun. Unfortunately close to the big road, and a bit noisy when wind comes from the north.

Online-Topo available: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Ekoberget

Access issues

http://access.bergsport.se/ekoberget/

Located in a nature reserve. https://www.lansstyrelsen.se/stockholm/besoksmal/naturreservat/ekoberget.html

Old parking at, and access through Graninge stiftsgård no longer possible to use. Park in pocket along Graningevägen, just north of the bridge. Access the crag by using the trail through the forest, reaching the water just south of the freeway.

Approach

(59.330092, 18.318610)

Parking instructions: https://stkf.se/nyheter/2017/07/07/ny-parkering-vid-ekoberget/

By public transport: Bus to stop "Eriksvik" along värmdövägen. Follow värmdövägen west by foot, take walking / bike road right towards the water. Follow the trail along the shoreline to the crag.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Good technical route on very smooth holds.

FA: 2007

The right leaning crack.

Start in the groove, finish slightly left. First bolt high. For the grade a rather hard and mental crux.

Start just to the right of the groove, keep left into the groove, through the small roof in the narrow inner corner, finish on the slab. One of the longest route on the crag.

Start right of the pine tree, climb up the ledge and aim left towards the bolt line 1,5m right of 'Fotografen har en stor apparat'. Technical and hard section in the middle join 'Fotografen har en stor apparat' on the top slab.

FA: Thomas Hansson, 2001

Start in vårkåt and exit left.

FA: 2003

Previously partly bolted. Fully bolted by MW 2019

One of the best in the grade in Stockholm

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