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Finnsvedsberget Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Philip Shaun Hurrell Southbeach Anders Grahn Nils Winell joljols Felix Glück Hayley Ho Viktor Persson

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Finnsvedsberget 56 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 59.282846, 18.331569

summary

Easy to hard, vertical to steep sport climbing located just above the water.

description

Perfect for climb and swim in the summer.

access issues

https://access.klatterforbundet.se/finnsvedsberget/

Parking for 3 cars only at 59.278990060963125, 18.345479796291507 (note: now with a P-skiva sign saying 3 hours). If full, closest parking 5km away at Ingarö Kyrka. 5km from the crag. (59.287509, 18.412926) (Bring a bike).

approach

The closest parking option is

Approach details last bit:

Walk dundervägen, at the end, continue on the trail into the forest. Walk the trail, first turning left and then right uphill, and after a bit on the higher land, left. For Sjöväggen, when the trail leads out in the open space and you have a free view of the water, walk towards the water aiming for a large pine tree. Continue (scramble, be careful, loose rocks) down to the shoreline and follow the water to the right for about 50m.

1.1. Sjöväggen 21 routes in Area

Rock: Large section of the wall fallen down winter 2023-2024.

See warning details and discuss

Created 3 months ago
Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 59.282084, 18.333018

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sjöjungfrun

Surprisingly pumpy for the grade, overhanging with big, rounded holds, good rock. It's possible to belay and pull the rope down without getting it wet - the trick is for the belayer to clip into the bolt on a long sling so they can lean back and catch the end of the rope. (From the anchor there is a perfect tiny ledge to jump from into the deep water if you wish).

FA: Linnea Larsson & Mikael Widerberg

{FR} 6a+ Sport 13m
2 Stortorsk

FA: Mikael Widerberg

{FR} 7c+ Sport 13m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 Kattöga

A bit harder after a hold broke. Still one of Sthlms best in the grade.

FA: Mikael Widerberg

{FR} 7b+ Sport 13m
4 Snatch

FA: Scott Mooney

{FR} 8a Sport 13m
5 Kraken

Start som Snatch, höger vid nischen till det lilla taket vid Kvinnofällan och klättra rakt upp mot ankaret på Baggen. Inga nya bultar.

FA: Southbeach, 3 Jul 2021

{FR} 8a Sport
6 Baggen

FA: Mikael Widerberg

{FR} 7a+ Sport 11m
7 Finnkampen

FA: Mikael Widerberg

{FR} 7b Sport
8 Kvinnofällan {FR} 7c Sport 13m
9 Tintin direkt

FA: Johan Luhr

{FR} 8a Sport 13m
10 Tintin

FA: Johan Luhr

{FR} 7c Sport 14m
11 Milou

FA: Johan Luhr

{FR} 7c Sport 13m
12 Bläckfisken

Large section of wall has fallen down. Route is gone.

FR:6c+ Sport 5
13 Kapten Haddock

Large section of wall has fallen down. Route is gone.

FA: Linnea Larsson & Mikael Widerberg

{FR} 7a Sport 11m
14 Fasta former

Large section of wall has fallen down. Route is gone.

FA: Johan Luhr

{FR} 7b Sport 13m
15 Ada

Large section of wall has fallen down. Route exit impacted.

FA: Mikael Widerberg

{FR} 6a Sport 12m
16 Runda former

Large section of the wall fell down. Route exit gone.

FA: Johan Luhr

{FR} 6a Sport 12m
17 Solstorm

FA: Andreas Andersson

{FR} 6a Sport 16m
18 Resan till Ulliga bergen

same start as "Blå Lotus", finishes to the left anchor.

FA: Andreas Andersson

{FR} 6a+ Sport 22m, 11
19 Blå Lotus

FA: Andreas Andersson

{FR} 6b+ Sport 22m, 11
20 Havstörst

FA: Andreas Andersson

{FR} 5c Sport 10m
21 Blixt och dunder

FA: Andreas Andersson

{FR} 5c Sport 10m

1.2. Högklint 28 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 59.283423, 18.330454

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Badkrukan FR:7b Sport 5m
2 Musslan FR:6c+ Sport 6m
3 Ta mig till havet {FR} 5c Sport 7m
4 Gör mig till Kung {FR} 5c Sport 7m
5 Solo FR:6a Sport 8m
6 Ormbunken FR:6b+ Sport 8m
7 Törnrosa FR:8a Sport 9m
8 Draget FR:7b+ Sport 10m
9 Rock Johan FR:7b Sport 10m
10 Akta dig för spindeln FR:7c Sport 5m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Gå på cirkus FR:7b+ Sport
12 Hälsa hem direkt FR:7c+ Sport
13 Hälsa hem FR:7b+ Sport
14 Matrix FR:7c+ Sport 9m
15 Matrix direkt

Start as Hälsa hem direkt, finish in Matrix, seems more logical then Matrix.

{FR} 7c+ Sport
16 Salt sill FR:7c Sport 12m
17 Silly attitude FR:7c Sport 12m
18 Attityd FR:8a+ Sport
19 Salt sill direkt FR:8a+ Sport
20 Ålen FR:7a+ Sport 9m
21 Ska ni joppa FR:6b+ Sport 7m
22 Lutande sprickan FR:7b Sport 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
23 Fimpa nu FR:7b+ Sport
24 Asko FR:7b+ Sport 7m
25 Medvind FR:7b Sport 7m
26 Motvind FR:7b Sport 7m
27 ? {FR} 5c Unknown
28 ?? Unknown

1.3. Svaväggen 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 59.282888, 18.331570

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ljungens lag FR:5a Trad
2 De som tog och log FR:4c Trad
3 Svajmast FR:5b Trad

1.4. Lilla Väggen 2 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad climbing
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 No more Mr nice guy FR:6a Trad
2 Meet mr Nasty FR:5b Trad

1.5. New small sector 2 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 59.283169, 18.330798

description

Small new sector (2019)

approach

"Walk same way as for Högklint, but walk left instead of down to Högklint"

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Metaforisk gratislunch

FA: Rasmus Johansson & Mats Carensjö, 2019

FR:6c+ Sport 8m
2 Guerilla gardener

FA: Rasmus Johansson & Mats Carensjö, 2019

FR:6b Sport 9m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
4c De som tog och log Trad 1.3. Svaväggen
5a Ljungens lag Trad 1.3. Svaväggen
5b Svajmast Trad 1.3. Svaväggen
Meet mr Nasty Trad 1.4. Lilla Väggen
5c Blixt och dunder Sport 10m 1.1. Sjöväggen
Havstörst Sport 10m 1.1. Sjöväggen
? Unknown 1.2. Högklint
Gör mig till Kung Sport 7m 1.2. Högklint
Ta mig till havet Sport 7m 1.2. Högklint
6a Ada Sport 12m 1.1. Sjöväggen
Runda former Sport 12m 1.1. Sjöväggen
Solstorm Sport 16m 1.1. Sjöväggen
Solo Sport 8m 1.2. Högklint
No more Mr nice guy Trad 1.4. Lilla Väggen
6a+ Resan till Ulliga bergen Sport 22m, 11 1.1. Sjöväggen
Sjöjungfrun Sport 13m 1.1. Sjöväggen
6b Guerilla gardener Sport 9m 1.5. New small sector
6b+ Blå Lotus Sport 22m, 11 1.1. Sjöväggen
Ormbunken Sport 8m 1.2. Högklint
Ska ni joppa Sport 7m 1.2. Högklint
6c+ Bläckfisken Sport 5 1.1. Sjöväggen
Musslan Sport 6m 1.2. Högklint
Metaforisk gratislunch Sport 8m 1.5. New small sector
7a Kapten Haddock Sport 11m 1.1. Sjöväggen
7a+ Baggen Sport 11m 1.1. Sjöväggen
Ålen Sport 9m 1.2. Högklint
7b Fasta former Sport 13m 1.1. Sjöväggen
Finnkampen Sport 1.1. Sjöväggen
Badkrukan Sport 5m 1.2. Högklint
Lutande sprickan Sport 8m 1.2. Högklint
Medvind Sport 7m 1.2. Högklint
Motvind Sport 7m 1.2. Högklint
Rock Johan Sport 10m 1.2. Högklint
7b+ Kattöga Sport 13m 1.1. Sjöväggen
Asko Sport 7m 1.2. Högklint
Draget Sport 10m 1.2. Högklint
Fimpa nu Sport 1.2. Högklint
Gå på cirkus Sport 1.2. Högklint
Hälsa hem Sport 1.2. Högklint
7c Kvinnofällan Sport 13m 1.1. Sjöväggen
Milou Sport 13m 1.1. Sjöväggen
Tintin Sport 14m 1.1. Sjöväggen
Akta dig för spindeln Sport 5m 1.2. Högklint
Salt sill Sport 12m 1.2. Högklint
Silly attitude Sport 12m 1.2. Högklint
7c+ Stortorsk Sport 13m 1.1. Sjöväggen
Hälsa hem direkt Sport 1.2. Högklint
Matrix Sport 9m 1.2. Högklint
Matrix direkt Sport 1.2. Högklint
8a Kraken Sport 1.1. Sjöväggen
Snatch Sport 13m 1.1. Sjöväggen
Tintin direkt Sport 13m 1.1. Sjöväggen
Törnrosa Sport 9m 1.2. Högklint
8a+ Attityd Sport 1.2. Högklint
Salt sill direkt Sport 1.2. Högklint
? ?? Unknown 1.2. Högklint
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