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Summary

Mainly vertical and for Stockholm standards, rather high wall. Mainly well bolted sport climbing, but also a few trad routes.

Description

Previously mosquitos would not allow climbing from mid summer (exception very windy days). After the near by marsh was emptied and bat houses has been set up, it is normally possible to climb through summer and autumn. Mosquitos can be a problem.

Access issues

  • To climb or remove moss from the big boulders opposite the walls / in the middle of "the cave". (Natura 2000 classed).
  • Park smart. Do not block traffic or parking for the locals.
  • Potential bird nesting.
  • Old parking along Skeviksvägen now blocked. New parking along Hermelinvägen.

Access status in Sweden climbing association database: http://access.bergsport.se/skevik/

Approach

By car: "New parking" along Hemlinvägen: https://goo.gl/maps/7mdnzfafNfvqkRnR6 Walk through the small forest and over the fields.

Public transport: Several different bus options from Slussen. 10-20 min walk.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Short and steep.

One of the better trad routes in Stockholm

Start on the ledge. New anchor on the wall (Originally on the ledge above).

Start in puls and finish in 'Vrålfinger'. New anchor on the wall (Originally on the ledge above).

Classic line

FA: Johan Luhr, 2002

FA: Anders Lundahl, 1988

FA: Stefan Kalén, 2013

FA: Eva Selin & Abders Lundahl, 1989

Previously very serious. Now, if using bolts from Silicon Valley a reasonable safe partially bolted route.

FA: Eva Selin & Anders Lundahl, 1983

FA: Eva Selin & Anders Lundahl, 1989

Chimney

FA: Bengt Hansson, 1967

FA: Johan Luhr, 2002

FA: Johan Luhr, 2002

Bolts very close from other routes.

FA: Eva Selin & Anders Lundahl, 1989

Even, long route. Good warm up. Pumpy. Climb the flake/block for 3 meters and continue zig-zag up the straight bolt line on the right wall.

FA: Peter Yakubenko, 2006

A Stockholm classic. Hard for the grade. The "Tabu-hold" is not in.

FA: Eva Selin & Anders Lundahl, 1988

FA: Jan Liliemark & Lars Svadängs, 1981

Partly bolted. Start with the crack of 'Megadans' and head right under the roof. Exposed finish.

Start in the crack, continue up in the corner, "step" left, climb up on the ledge and finish in the face.

FA: Johan Luhr, 1991

FA: Anders Lundahl & Eva Selin, 1989

FA: Johan Luhr & Rikard Hedman, 1989

One of the Skevik classics. Shared start with 'Bates motel' heading left over the shield some meters before the small roof.

FA: Eva Selin & Anders Lundahl, 1989

Shared start with 'Icones. Continue straight, over the roof and finish left sharing anchor with 'Icones'

FA: Claes Jelinek & Daniel Bidner, 1993

FA: Anders Lundahl & Eva Selin, 1988

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