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Båthamnen (Boat Marina)

  • Grade context: SWE
  • Approach time: 3
  • Ascents: 10

Seasonality

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Description

The slab by the stairs up the cliff from the boat marina.

Access issues inherited from Sweden

Please used designated parking areas. Check Sweden climbing association access database: http://access.bergsport.se/

Approach

3minute walk from the parking, following the path towards the waterfront and boat marina

Routes

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Grade Route

Located about 5m left from 'Vemodet', start next to the three and the small fireplace. Boulder start, intensive first half (harder than it looks) and slab finish. Finish at the single ring bolt. Loose rock quality.

Start just left from '999 Luftbalonger' , straight up in the inner corner, then left, over the edge and continue the slab to the anchor under the big roof.

Starts by the pine tree a bit up the on the slab. Be aware of the loose heavy flakes. Climb carefully by the flakes up to the right in the groove to the right of the slab, step out left on the slab and continue up the crack to the top. Nice climbing with some runouts.

FFA: Jan Liliemark, Lars Svadängs & Anniki Liliemark, 1980

Starts by the arch roof to the right of previous route. Follow the arch to the birch tree, thereafter straight up following the cracks up to a tiny but good belay by the oak/pine tree. (2) Continue up the dihedral and move right at the end. The finish follows a crack in a slab where you find the crux.

FFA: Buster Delin & Jonas Paulsson, 1991

Start 5m left of the original start in the dirty dihedral on the right wall. Fantastic limestone like pockets together with a crack at the top where the arch finishes make this variation a worthwhile variation. The pockets and the crack enables protection of the first part. Traverse back towards the tree and continue up the original route.

FA: Johan Sandberg, 30 Apr 2012

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