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Zervreilahorn

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Summary

Das Bündner Matterhorn am Ende des Valsertals mit 2898m ASL.

Approach

Per Auto oder öV auf von Chur via Ilanz nach Vals und weiter nach Zervreila zum Parkplatz bei der Kapelle (P.1984). Von dort der Schotterstrasse entlang ca. 2.7km zum Beginn des Wanderwegs nach Furggelti. Dann dem Wanderweg entlang bis auf ca. 2240m (Steinhaufen, Eisenstange mit weiss-rot-weisser Markierung), wo man diesen nach rechts verlässt.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 6a+
2 6a
3 5a
4 5a
5 4b
6 3a
7 5b
8 3a
9 5c+
10 4b
11 2a
12 5c+

Height includes the two first pithces which are possible to skip by hiking past them. Without these height is 250 m.

For the additional two pitches: Some guides suggest to stay in the cornercrack(5c). That exit-ledge is covered by loose rocks and is hard to protect with tradgear. Better stay in one of the two face cracks (6a/6a+ ?) to the right.

10.08.32 - Updated the topo based on the Filidor guide (Plaisir OST) the route is bolted GUT plus gear (specified in the guide). as the upper paragraph suggests, it's better in the second pitch to follow one or the two face cracks.

Topo: http://www.filidor.ch/uploads/zervreilahorn.pdf

Set: Ruedi und Werner Vieli, 1960

1 6c 15m
2 7b+ 25m
3 6c 15m

6c oblig.

FA: M. Dettling, V. Wegmayr & S. Dettling, 2022

1 4b
2 6c
1 5c
2 6a+
3 6a+
1 4a 40m
2 6a 50m
3 6a A2+ 50m
4 7a 50m
5 7b A2
1 6b+ 50m
2 6c A1 50m
3 1 40m
4 6c A2+ 55m
5 5c A3 20m
1 6b 50m
2 6b 50m
1 6a 25m
2 5b 25m
3 6c 25m
4 6c 30m
5 5a+ 25m
6 5c 20m
7 5c+ 25m
8 6a+ 35m
9 5b 20m
10 6a 30m
1 5a 45m
2 5b 35m
3 5b 35m
4 5c 45m
5 5c+ 40m
6 5c+ 50m
7 5b

http://www.sac-bodan.ch/downloads/topoalphornklaenge.pdf

FA: Michi Illien, Andreas Schweizer, Sebastian Schweizer & Dominik Zürcher, 2012

1 6a+ 35m
2 6b 35m
3 6b 35m
4 6b 30m
5 6c 30m
6 6b 35m
7 6b+ 45m
Material:
2x50m‐Seile, ca. 10 Exen (davon mind. 4 verlängerbare), Cams BD C4 0.1‐3 plus 0.3‐3 und ein Set an kleinen bis mittleren Keilen.

Detaillierte Beschreibung auf dem Blog von Marcel Dettling.

Set: Marcel Dettling & Viktor Wegmayr, 2020

FFA: Marcel Dettling & Viktor Wegmayr, 14 Aug 2021

1 7a
2 6b+
3 6c
4 7a
5 6b
6 6b+

Gear:

1x BD 0.2 - 3, doubles of 0.3-1 helpful. Medium stopper for pitch four. 6 quickdraws + 4 extendable draws

Topo: https://www.dropbox.com/s/j4ahfclaaz06euk/Zervreilahorn_Holy%20Smoke_v210922.pdf?dl=0

FA: M. Dettling, V. Wegmayr, L. Dettling & V. Wegmayr, 13 Jul 2020

FFA: V. Wegmayr, M. Dettling & V. Wegmayr, 19 Sep 2020

1 6b 30m
2 7a 30m
3 6b+ 30m
4 6b 25m
5 6b+ 30m
6 6a+ 30m
7 6c 35m
8 6a+ 30m
9 5c 25m

Topo available for download on blog of first ascensionist.

FA: M. Dettling & V. Wegmayr, 2019

1 6b 35m
2 6c 35m
3 7a+ 35m
4 6c 25m
5 6b 40m
6 6c 30m
7 6b 20m
8 6c 30m
9 5c+ 40m
1 6b 40m
2 6b 25m
3 6c 30m
4 7a+ 35m
5 6b 20m
6 6c+ 35m
7 6a+ 30m
8 6a 25m
1 6a+ 40m
2 6a+ 35m
3 6a+ 35m
4 5a 50m
5 5c+ 20m
6 6c 35m
7 6a+ 50m
8 5a 20m
1 6a+ 30m
2 7a+ 40m
3 7a 40m
4 6a+ 20m
5 6a 15m
6 6c 20m
7 6c 30m
8 7a+ 30m
9 6c+ 25m
1 5c+ 35m
2 6a+ 45m
3 5a 35m
4 5c+ 30m
5 6a+ 15m
6 6a+ 30m
7 5c 30m
1 6a+ 30m
2 6a+ 25m
3 5b 35m
4 5a 35m
5 6b 35m
6 6a+ 25m
7 6a 50m
1 5a 20m
2 1 20m
3 6a 25m
4 6a 40m
5 1 25m
6 5c+ 30m
7 1 20m
8 6c 30m
9 6a+ 20m
10 4b 20m
11 4b 25m
12 6a 15m
1 5c 30m
2 1 15m
3 5c 25m
4 6a+ 30m
5 4a 20m
6 6b 40m
7 1 10m
8 6a 30m
9 6b 30m
10 4b 30m
1 5c+ 30m
2 5c+ 40m
3 6b 30m
4 5c+ 25m
5 6a 10m
6 1 25m
7 5c 25m
8 10m
9 40m
1 5b 30m
2 5c+ 40m
3 5b+ 30m
4 5c+ 25m
5 1 10m
6 5c 45m
7 1 10m
8 5c 40m
1 3c 20m
2 1 15m
3 3b 20m
4 3a 25m
5 2c 15m
6 1 30m
7 3a 20m
8 4a 25m
9 3b 20m
10 2c 15m
11 1 25m
12 3c 25m

http://www.sac-bodan.ch/downloads/toposuedgrat.pdf

Set: MichiIllien & AndreasSchweizer, 2012

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Christoph Klein & Jürgen Winkler

Date: 2023

ISBN: 978-3-95611-182-2

Author(s): Adi Stocker

Date: 2014

ISBN: 978-3-95611-022-1

On the 44,000 meters of climbing researched for this book, epochal alpine milestones mingle with enjoyable new route creations. Climbing legends such as Albert Precht, Klaus Hoi and Heinz Zak comment on their passion for steep rock. Routes by climbing greats from long ago, such as Angelo Dibona or Hias Rebitsch, have been accurately recorded in line with modern requirements. There is also plenty of space dedicated to new routes secured with bolts by creative talents such as Ralf Sussmann, Rudi Kühberger and the author himself. 40 long routes with at least 20 pitches, where you can clip bolts in keeping with the spirit of the times, but sometimes also have to make do with rusty protection.

Author(s): Ulrich & Harald Röker

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9783938680513

All important bouldering areas of northern Switzerland, including the high passes, are presented in detail / 17 bouldering hot spots with over 4150 boulder problems between Schaffhausen and the main ridge of the Alps. It covers Kesslerloch, Magic Wood, Engelberg, Blattiswald, Morschach, Schöllenen, Göschenen, Gotthardpass, Nufenenpass, Minstigertal, Furkapass, Sustenpass, Steingletscher, Grimselpass, Fuxenstein, Kandersteg, Goppenstein.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 18 Apr
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