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Vättis Guide

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 9
  • Ascents: 813
  • Aka: Mapragg

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Philip Moxi mike Ivo Noah Frick Fabian B Michele De Marchi

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Vättis 85 routes in Crag

Summary:
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F
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Seasonality

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 46.938529, 9.479463

summary

Mostly 30+m vertical and overhanging endurance climbing on blue/yellow limestone.

description

All route names are written on the wall, so it's easy to navigate without a topo.

approach

Opposite of the parking space at the road (46.9388, 9.4772), a little path starts above the concrete wall. The quite steep path will lead you to the crag.

1.1. Hauptwand 68 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.937357, 9.478748

description

  • Afternoon sun
    The sun will hit the wall in April around 3pm.
  • With Kids
    :
    • Left side: Flat base, enough space to play

    • Right side: Starting from 'Höhenfeuer', you belay from a ledge and you can secure yourself on fixed ropes. The further to the right the more it becomes like a via ferrata, this is absolutely no place for children!!!

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Panoramix 7b Sport 25m
2 Princess Swing 7a+ Sport 20m
3 Bonsaith 6c Sport 25m
4 Miracoolix 7a Sport 30m
5 Idee Fix 6c Sport 30m
6 Hedera 6b Sport 30m
7 Via Augusta 6c+ Sport 30m
8 Noe light

start von 'Noe' und dann verschneidung Links

6c+ Sport 27m
9 Noe 7a+ Sport 30m
10 Queen of Rock 7b Sport 27m
11 Höhenfeuer 6c+ Sport 25m
12 In Flagranti 6c+ Sport 30m
13 Shamila 6b Sport 32m
14 Golden Gate 6b+ Sport 32m, 14
15 Vadura 6c+ Sport 30m
16 Vadura (Extension)

Extension bolted that goes to the right at the second last bolt of Vadura

7a Sport 35m
17 Mauerläufer 7a Sport 35m, 14
18 Projektleiter 7b Sport 30m
19 Projektor 7b Sport 30m, 13
20 Gelegenheits-Job 7a+ Sport 32m, 14
21 Ultramarin

Maint: Anna Enrich, 9 Oct 2020

7b Sport 30m, 14
22 Ewige Jagdgründe 7c Sport 32m
23 Combination

Link up - Combines Ultramarine into Ewige Jagdgründe

7a+ Sport 35m
24 Leggings Lügen Nie

After the crux of Intermezzo head left and up.

7c+ Sport 30m
25 Intermezzo

Maint: Anna Enrich, Aug 2020

7c+ Sport 28m
26 Esperanza

Warning Fixed Gear: Missing hanger

7c+ Sport 28m
27 Supercombination

Links Esperanza into Intermezzo, cutting out both cruxes.

7b Sport 30m
28 Hypercombination

Links Intermezzo into Esperanza, combining the hardest parts of both climbs.

8a Sport 35m
29 Crash

Goes until the first anchor in Schlussbouquet

6c+ Sport 20m
30 Schlussbouquet 7c Sport 28m
31 Gelber Streifen

Start with Dornenvögel until first anchor

7a Sport 22m
32 Dornenvögel 7c+ Sport 30m
33 Kristallpalast

Maint: Anna Enrich, 25 Oct 2020

7b+ Sport 25m
34 Herr der Winde 8a Sport
35 Züzi-Highway 6c+ Sport 25m
36 Sweet Home 8a+ Sport 30m
37 Maweo 8a+ Sport 35m
38 El Fuego 8b Sport
39 David und Goliath 7c Sport 35m
40 Mistery 8a Sport
41 Femme Fatale 7c Sport 20m, 10
42 Gaja 7c+ Sport
43 Götterquergang 8a Sport
44 Heroes del Silencio 7c Sport 25m
45 Omega 8a Sport
46 Waran 8b Sport
47 Killerinstinkt 7c+ Sport
48 Zyklop 8b+ Sport
49 Flugmeile 8a+ Sport
50 Triumph und Trauer 7c+ Sport
51 Peanuts 7c Sport
52 Valley of Dreams 8a Sport
53 Schwarze Dimension 8a Sport
54 Power Mac 8a+ Sport
55 Insel der Kraft 8a+ Sport

Far Side

57 Alles oder Nichts 7c+ Sport 20m
58 Reise ins Licht 7c Sport 25m
59 It never stops

This was an old Project from Marco Weilenmann (RIP), now fixed up, cleaned and the missing bolts added. Nice long consistent line (bring your 80m rope and lots of QD).

FA: Andreas Aachen, Jul 2023

7a Sport 40m, 21
60 The Gäsi principle

Crimpy endurance climbing to a good rest, followed by a “Gäsi-Like” Crux on sidepulls and crimps. Feels hard if you don’t know what to do and easy once you figured out the sequence (like every route in Gäsi…) 😊

FA: Andreas Aachen, Jul 2023

7b+ Sport 40m
61 Evil Olive

Jugs, jugs, jugs, to a powerful crux through the bulge.

FA: Andreas Aachen, Jul 2023

7b+ Sport 38m
62 Tacocat

This feline will break some hearts… Nice fun climbing to a crimpy crux which finishes on slopers.

FA: Andreas Aachen, Jul 2023

7c Sport 38m
63 Tacocat direct start

Crimpy boulder problem to start Tacocat. Not as good as the OG but you get an additional grade for it.

FA: Andreas Aachen, Jul 2023

7c+ Sport 38m
64 Never odd or eveN

A good warm-up at this section of the wall.

FA: Andreas Aachen, Jul 2023

6b+ Sport 30m
65 Rotator

FA: Andreas Aachen, Jul 2023

6c Sport 25m
66 Too hot to hoot

Easy climbing followed by powerful crux on crimps. Needs a cool breeze.

FA: Andreas Aachen, Jul 2023

7b+ Sport 25m
67 Bapf

At the very end (right hand side) of the fixed ropes

7c Sport

Unsorted Routes

Please move them to the right position if you know where they are!

69 Siesta 8c Sport
70 Essenz 9a Sport

1.2. Ost 17 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.939565, 9.480343

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Links

2 Barbapapa 6a Sport 5
3 Nouvelle Cuisine 7b+ Sport 6
4 Die letzte Instanz 8a+ Sport 8
5 Leider geil 7c Sport 7
6 Alpöhi’s Geheimnis 6b+ Sport 7

Rechts

8 Leo 6a Sport
9 Projekt SportProject
10 Schatzkammer 7b+ Sport
11 Friedhof der Kuscheltiere 7c+ Sport
12 Bull Rider 8a+ Sport
13 Perlenweg 6b Sport
14 Graue Eminenz 7b Sport
15 Magic mood 7c+ Sport
16 Athleticum 7c+ Sport
17 Monsterpiaz 7c Sport
18 Juwel 8a+ Sport
19 Kill Bill 7a+ Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
6a Barbapapa Sport 5 1.2. Ost
Leo Sport 1.2. Ost
6b Hedera Sport 30m 1.1. Hauptwand
Shamila Sport 32m 1.1. Hauptwand
Perlenweg Sport 1.2. Ost
6b+ Golden Gate Sport 32m, 14 1.1. Hauptwand
Never odd or eveN Sport 30m 1.1. Hauptwand
Alpöhi’s Geheimnis Sport 7 1.2. Ost
6c Bonsaith Sport 25m 1.1. Hauptwand
Idee Fix Sport 30m 1.1. Hauptwand
Rotator Sport 25m 1.1. Hauptwand
6c+ Crash Sport 20m 1.1. Hauptwand
Höhenfeuer Sport 25m 1.1. Hauptwand
In Flagranti Sport 30m 1.1. Hauptwand
Noe light Sport 27m 1.1. Hauptwand
Vadura Sport 30m 1.1. Hauptwand
Via Augusta Sport 30m 1.1. Hauptwand
Züzi-Highway Sport 25m 1.1. Hauptwand
7a Gelber Streifen Sport 22m 1.1. Hauptwand
It never stops Sport 40m, 21 1.1. Hauptwand
Mauerläufer Sport 35m, 14 1.1. Hauptwand
Miracoolix Sport 30m 1.1. Hauptwand
Vadura (Extension) Sport 35m 1.1. Hauptwand
7a+ Combination Sport 35m 1.1. Hauptwand
Gelegenheits-Job Sport 32m, 14 1.1. Hauptwand
Noe Sport 30m 1.1. Hauptwand
Princess Swing Sport 20m 1.1. Hauptwand
Kill Bill Sport 1.2. Ost
7b Panoramix Sport 25m 1.1. Hauptwand
Projektleiter Sport 30m 1.1. Hauptwand
Projektor Sport 30m, 13 1.1. Hauptwand
Queen of Rock Sport 27m 1.1. Hauptwand
Supercombination Sport 30m 1.1. Hauptwand
Ultramarin Sport 30m, 14 1.1. Hauptwand
Graue Eminenz Sport 1.2. Ost
7b+ Evil Olive Sport 38m 1.1. Hauptwand
Kristallpalast Sport 25m 1.1. Hauptwand
The Gäsi principle Sport 40m 1.1. Hauptwand
Too hot to hoot Sport 25m 1.1. Hauptwand
Nouvelle Cuisine Sport 6 1.2. Ost
Schatzkammer Sport 1.2. Ost
7c Bapf Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
David und Goliath Sport 35m 1.1. Hauptwand
Ewige Jagdgründe Sport 32m 1.1. Hauptwand
Femme Fatale Sport 20m, 10 1.1. Hauptwand
Heroes del Silencio Sport 25m 1.1. Hauptwand
Peanuts Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
Reise ins Licht Sport 25m 1.1. Hauptwand
Schlussbouquet Sport 28m 1.1. Hauptwand
Tacocat Sport 38m 1.1. Hauptwand
Leider geil Sport 7 1.2. Ost
Monsterpiaz Sport 1.2. Ost
7c+ Alles oder Nichts Sport 20m 1.1. Hauptwand
Dornenvögel Sport 30m 1.1. Hauptwand
Esperanza Sport 28m 1.1. Hauptwand
Gaja Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
Intermezzo Sport 28m 1.1. Hauptwand
Killerinstinkt Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
Leggings Lügen Nie Sport 30m 1.1. Hauptwand
Tacocat direct start Sport 38m 1.1. Hauptwand
Triumph und Trauer Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
Athleticum Sport 1.2. Ost
Friedhof der Kuscheltiere Sport 1.2. Ost
Magic mood Sport 1.2. Ost
8a Götterquergang Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
Herr der Winde Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
Hypercombination Sport 35m 1.1. Hauptwand
Mistery Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
Omega Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
Schwarze Dimension Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
Valley of Dreams Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
8a+ Flugmeile Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
Insel der Kraft Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
Maweo Sport 35m 1.1. Hauptwand
Power Mac Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
Sweet Home Sport 30m 1.1. Hauptwand
Bull Rider Sport 1.2. Ost
Die letzte Instanz Sport 8 1.2. Ost
Juwel Sport 1.2. Ost
8b El Fuego Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
Waran Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
8b+ Zyklop Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
8c Siesta Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
9a Essenz Sport 1.1. Hauptwand
? Projekt SportProject 1.2. Ost
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