A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
loskokosos
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Table of contents
- 1.
Rüttelhorn
122 in Crag
- 1.1. Känzeli 11 in Sector
- 1.2. Bonatti 9 in Sector
- 1.3. Sonnenpfeiler 4 in Sector
- 1.4. Gelbe Wand 25 in Sector
- 1.5. Keller 43 in Sector
- 1.6. Teufelsgrätli 10 in Sector
- 1.7. Platte 8 in Sector
- 1.8. Nase 12 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Rüttelhorn 122 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 47.279899, 7.606262
description
Topos der Routen finden sich u.a. auch im SAC Tourenportal. Einige Routen sind mit kleinen Metalltafeln beschriftet, aber viele sind auch unbeschriftet.
Der Platz zum Sichern ist teilweise etwas abschüssig. Für Familien eher mässig geeignet.
access issues
Bitte direkt zum Steinmännli auf der Wiese unterhalb der Felsen laufen, danach gibt es ein Schild am Waldrand. Es kann sein, dass Kühe auf der Wiese sind.
approach
Parkieren an der Schmiedenmattstrasse, bei der Bergwirtschaft Vordere Schmiedenmatt - kurz bevor man ankommt, sieht man rechts an der Wiese das Parking. Auf dem Platz befindet ein Schild "Max. 3 Std".
Die Routen sind an den Felsen verstreut und nicht immer ganz einfach zu finden. Der Zustieg zu einigen Routen ist mit Fixseilen gesichert. Teilweise sind die Wege steil und etwas rutschig, gute Schuhe sind von Vorteil.
1.1. Känzeli 11 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Let's fetz | 6a+ | 10m | |||
| 2 | Lückenbüesser | 6c+ | 10m | |||
| 3 | Feel safe | 5c+ | 10m | |||
| 4 | Al Bundy | 6a | 10m | |||
| 5 | Via Franziska | 6a+ | 10m | |||
| 6 | Schattenspiel 92 | 6c | 10m | |||
| 7 | Anita S | 5c | 10m | |||
| 8 | Salue George | 7c | 10m | |||
| 9 | Lunettes nècessaire | 7b+ | 10m | |||
| 10 | Solidarnoc | 7a | 10m | |||
| 11 | Zwergli | 5c+ | 10m | |||
1.2. Bonatti 9 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | NoName / ??? | 6c | 12m | |||
| 2 | Rocky 5 | 6c+ | 12m | |||
| 3 | Frauenfrust | 6b+ | 15m | |||
| 4 | Bonatti | 6a+ | 15m | |||
| 5 | Bonatti direkt | 6b | 15m | |||
| 6 | Bloc rocking Beat`s | 7c | 15m | |||
| 7 | Show us your tits | 7a | 15m | |||
| 8 | Fumaggeli | 6b | 15m | |||
| 9 | Lay Back | 6b | 15m | |||
1.3. Sonnenpfeiler 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 47.279895, 7.604160
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★★ Sonnenpfeiler | 6a | 20m | |||
| 2 | Linke Platte | 6b+ | 15m | |||
| 3 | Mittlere Platte | 6c | 15m | |||
| 4 | Plattenkante | 5b | 15m | |||
1.4. Gelbe Wand 25 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 47.279660, 7.604144
description
Dieser Sektor ist auch im Sommer relativ im Schatten, viele Routen sind leider sehr "speckig" und abgeklettert
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ Trick | 5c | 15m | |||
| 2 | ★★ Track | 6a | 15m | |||
| 3 | ★★ Truck | 5a | 15m | |||
| 4 | ★ Bingo | 5b | 10m | |||
| 5 | ★ Bongo | 5c | 10m | |||
| 6 | ★ Via Marianna | 6a | 20m | |||
| 7 | Affenschmerz | 6a+ | 20m | |||
| 8 | ★ Herbstfurz | 6b | 20m | |||
| 9 | ★★ Kato-Route | 6b | 20m | |||
| 10 | Cool Man | 6b+ | 20m | |||
| 11 | ★★★ Aprico-Team | 6b+ | 20m | |||
| 12 | ★ Le Scarabée | 6c | 20m | |||
| 13 | ★★ Eidechsenweg | 6b+ | 20m | |||
| 14 | ★★ Gelbe Wand | 6c+ | 20m | |||
| 15 | ★★ Boys at work | 6c | 20m | |||
| 16 | ★★ Froschhupf | 6c | 20m | |||
| 17 | ★★ Dynamo | 6b+ | 20m | |||
| 18 | Dynamo Variante | 20m | ||||
| 19 | ★★ S'Loch | 6a | 20m | |||
| 20 | Floristika | 4a | 20m | |||
| 21 | ★ Waldhängst | 6b | 20m | |||
| 22 | ★★ Ameisenplatte | 4b | 20m | |||
| 23 | ★★ Heugümper | 4a | 20m | |||
| 24 | Herbsttraum | 6b | 20m | |||
| 25 | Ewiges Licht | 6c+ | 20m | |||
1.5. Keller 43 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 47.279909, 7.605138
description
Der Sektor wird manchmal in "Keller" (bis Route "Keller rechts") und "Schuppenwand" (ab Route "Voie") unterteilt.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Rogers Traum | 7b+ | 30m | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 2 | ★ Schärme Route | 4c | 40m, 2 | |||||
| 3 | Schärme Route Einstiegsvariante | 5c | 20m | |||||
| 4 |
★ Rägeroute
alternative third pitch of 'Schärme Route' | 5c+ | 15m | |||||
| 5 |
Credo
second pitch | 7b+ | 20m | |||||
| 6 | Digitus | 7a | 20m | |||||
| 7 | ★★★ Wilde Winde | 7a+ | 50m, 2 | |||||
| 8 |
Diagonal
second pitch of 'Digitus' | 7a | 20m | |||||
| 9 | ★★★ Pfannenstiel | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
| 10 | Seelentanz | 6c | 25m | |||||
| 11 | Voie (Keller) | 6a+ | ||||||
| 12 | ★ Hakenriss | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
| 13 |
★★ Hakenriss Variante
stay left on top | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
| 14 | ★★★ Namenlos | 6c+ | 25m | |||||
| 15 | ★★ Suva-Trip | 6c | 25m | |||||
| 16 | ★★ Sinfonie | 5c+ | 25m | |||||
| 17 | Kamel | 6b | 25m | |||||
| 18 |
★★ ?
Einstieg 'Symphonie' dann nach 3 Bolt rechts in die 'Comme tu veux' | 5c | ||||||
| 19 | Comme tu veux | 6c+ | 15m | |||||
| 20 | ★★ Direttissima | 6b | 25m | |||||
| 21 | Brawandriss | 5c | 15m | |||||
| 22 | Nische | 6a+ | 25m | |||||
| 23 |
Keller links
Ist gleichzeitig Abseilpiste für die umliegenden MSL (1x 30m oder 2x 15m). | 4a | 35m, 2 | |||||
| 24 | Höhlenüberhang | 6b | 15m | |||||
| 25 | ★★ Nid d'oiseau | 7b | 15m | |||||
| 26 | Projekt | 15m | ||||||
| 27 | ★★★ La maladie | 7b | 15m | |||||
| 28 | ★ Planet der Affen | 6b | 20m | |||||
| 29 | Affenplanet | 7a | 20m | |||||
| 30 |
★★★ Keller rechts
Erste Seillänge ist Zustieg für die Routen "Panoramapfeiler", "Keller direkt" und "Kellerpfeife". | 4c | 50m, 3 | |||||
| 31 | Voie (Schuppenwand) | 6a | 25m | |||||
| 32 |
Schuppenwand
the 1st bolt is missing. Führt zum gleichen Ort wie die erste SL von "Keller rechts". | 4c | 30m | |||||
| 33 |
Schuppenwand Variante
stay right | 4b | 30m | |||||
| 34 | Make Love | 7c | 15m | |||||
| 35 | Real Love | 7c+ | 15m | |||||
| 36 | Emmemmeggerriss | 6a+ | 15m | |||||
| 37 | Nachtflug | 6c+ | 15m | |||||
| 38 | Flugtag | 7b+ | 15m | |||||
| 39 | Lady Sunshine | 6c+ | 15m | |||||
| 40 | ★★ Panoramapfeiler | 5c | 30m, 2 | |||||
| 41 | Keller direkt | 4c | 20m | |||||
| 42 | Kellerpfeife | 5b | 20m | |||||
| 43 | Snufi | 6b+ | 20m | |||||
1.6. Teufelsgrätli 10 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 47.280039, 7.605994
approach
Der Weg zwischen den Sektoren "Keller" und "Nase" führt etwas unterhalb des Wandfusses hindurch. Am besten hält man ausschau nach dem Fixseil beim Einstieg der Route "Tüfusglück" (ganz rechts im Sektor).
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Cement highway | 5c | 20m | |||||
| 2 | Linker Pfeiler | 5c+ | 20m | |||||
| 3 | Rechter Pfeiler | 6a | 15m | |||||
| 4 | ★★ Teufelskamin | 4c | 50m, 2 | |||||
| 5 |
Uswäg
second pitch | 5a | 20m | |||||
| 6 |
Doping
second pitch | 6a+ | 20m | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 7 | ★★ Teufelsgrätli | 5c+ | 50m, 2 | |||||
| 8 |
Tüfutanz / Teufelstanz
second pitch | 6b | 20m | |||||
| 9 |
Eggli
second pitch | 5a+ | 20m | |||||
| 10 | Tüfusglück / Teufelsglück | 6b+ | 50m, 2 | |||||
1.7. Platte 8 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 47.280044, 7.606493
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Altjahr | 5b | 15m | |||
| 2 | Silvesterweg | 5c | 15m | |||
| 3 | Neujahr | 4b | 15m | |||
| 4 | Linke Platte | 5c | 20m | |||
| 5 | Normalroute | 5a | 20m | |||
| 6 | Ice Cream | 6a+ | 20m | |||
| 7 | Direkte Platte | 6a | 20m | |||
| 8 | Rechte Platte | 5b | 15m | |||
1.8. Nase 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 47.280028, 7.607157
description
An Wochenenden gibt es Andrang bei der Abseilstelle von der Nase. Man kann an anderen Stellen sehr gut abseilen.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Moderne Zeiten | 6c+ | 30m | |||
| 2 | ★★ Quacksalber | 6a+ | 30m | |||
| 3 | Roggwilerpfeiler | 6a | 30m, 2 | |||
| 4 | S'Zwieback | 6c | 20m | |||
| 5 | ??? | 7a | 20m | |||
| 6 | Nutra Sweet | 6c | 20m | |||
| 7 | ★ Nasenriss | 5c | 35m | |||
| 8 | Engu | 6c+ | 35m | |||
| 9 | Red Rain | 6c+ | 35m, 2 | |||
| 10 | Öpfelgegetschi | 6c | 35m | |||
| 11 |
Nasentropf
second pitch | 8a | 20m | |||
| 12 |
Tissis haben keine Schonzeit
second pitch | 6c+ | 20m | |||
