Long Dong, Rock climbing

YDS

5.3 5.5 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10a 5.10c 5.11a 5.11c 5.12a 5.12c 5.13a 5.13c 5.14a

Map

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

1 School Gate 2 Clock Tower 3 Long Lane 4 Music Hall 5 Grand Auditorium 6 First Cave 7 Second Cave 8 Golden valley 9 Back Door

Directions in Google Maps

Seasonality

Summary

Sandstone

Sandstone trad and sport in a stunning seaside location.

Description

The premier climbing destination in Taiwan. Unique, bullet hard sandstone overlooking reefs, ponds, and the Pacific ocean. Cracks, faces, roofs, and even a few highball/solos over the water. Easy public transportation access from Taipei and Keelung.

Access issues

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/19rb_88J5vvWG2mue7sNgaQHeiiy4aYgJ3AR4Bftyilw/edit#gid=776608571

Approach

<5 min

Buses run from the Taipei West Bus Station Terminal A (to Luodong or Yilan), Ruifang (886, 856) and Keelung main stations. Get off at Hemei Elementary School (和美國小) stop on Highway 2 for quick access to the Schoolgate crag or stay on through the tunnel and disembark at the temple just after the tunnel ends. Easy scrambling across boulders will get you to most areas, although there are a few unroped class 4 traversing required to reach a few areas.

Where to stay

Camping is technically illegal, but tolerated if you keep a low key. Camp on the rocks or in the grassy areas along the hiking trail above the cliffline.

https://thebivylongdong.com/

https://longdongclimbingho.wixsite.com/longdongcrackhouse

Ethic

None to speak of. Some locals stick to a clean ethic, while others go nuts with the power drills. Expect tightly bolted routes (often every 5 feet!), even along lines with plentiful protection.

History

History timeline chart

Mostly undeveloped until the late 80's and early 1990's, although the area has long been popular with fishermen and bird nest collectors. The first wave of developments were done by locals, French, and Koreans. Later development has primarily been done by Taiwanese, although a number of notable FAs have fallen to visitors including Alex Honnold.