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Koh Yao Noi

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 204
  • Aka: อำเภอ เกาะยาว

Seasonality

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Description

A large beautiful island located between Phuket and Railay.

Access issues

Dec 2019: according to local shop, many crags are closed!

Resort staff advise against rock climbing due to trouble with national park rangers a couple of years ago. According to the rangers the bolting efforts drove the native birds and monkeys away from the cliffs which is why they prohibit climbing.

Approach

The island can be accessed with longtails or speed boats from phuket or krabi. The crags at the northern tip if the island are next to the paradise resort. Access is either via a steep, windy and muddy jungle trail. After rain you will need a 4wd, when it is dry scooters are fine. Before you arrive at the resort gate park your scooter at the scooter shed and walk around the resort avoiding been seen by guests. Alternatively you can get to the crags by longtail (around 2200 baht/day) or kayak (300 baht/day). From the north western pier it is about 5km (30-45min) by kayak, from long beach on the eastern side about 2km (15-20min) to get to the little cove north of the resort.

At the northern end of the resort you can access the crags via an overgrown long jungle trail or go down the beach and access two trails from there.

Where to stay

Closest accommodation to the crags is the expensive paradise resort, they don't provide any information regarding climbing due to issues with the park rangers but they also won't keep you from climbing.

More dirtbag appropriate are any of the bungalows for rent all along the coast. The eastern side is a little more expensive because it has beaches while the western side only has mangroves.

Areas

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Areas

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Closed Grateful Wall Area
15
37
30m
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0
0

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts at the beach in between the fig trees. Find the fig tree that protrudes the furthest towards the water, from there a small trail heads straight up towards a signed crossroads. Follow the fixed lines straight up to the Mitt. Turn right for HD / Big Tree Wall. Turn left for Hongkong / Breakfast / Bee / Dump Wall and Ao Nui Tower.

From the main trail crossing head left towards Hongkong / Breakfast / Bee / Dump wall and Ao Pui Tower.

In the furthest corner of the beach find the big tree stump (might be gone at some point) and follow the jungle trail behind it. About 10 min down the trail you will arrive at Bone Wall (closed) and HD Wall around the corner. Continue along the cliff for another 10 min or so along a few fixed ropes and two ladders to Big Tree wall. Beware of the rotting wooden ladder and choose your footing carefully!

From the intersection turn right and follow the faint trail until it merges with the track coming from the beach. Follow as per Big Tree approach description.

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