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Diamond Cave

  • Grade context: FR
  • Approach time: 40 min
  • Photos: 4
  • Ascents: 802

Seasonality

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Description

Medium to good quality rock. Very, very popular with the climbing schools.

Approach

Walk to the end of the Railay walking street. Walk around the wall and then turn left. After the road bends left, keep going straight, following directions to the Phutawan resort. You will pass the entrance to the actual Diamond cave on the left. Continue further uphill and find the crag on your left behind the Highland climbing school.

Alternatively, take the steep jungle trail connecting from Ton Sai. At Basecamp, take the road uphill, which passes 'Mama's Chicken'. Continue uphill until you pass the last bungalows. Follow the trail through the forest for about 20 min until you reach a small meadow. Pass through the high grass and continue on the small road. After a bend to the right you will see the Phutawan resort on your right. The crag is now right in front of you.

Routes

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Grade Route

Three routes around the left corner of the main face. Old expansion bolts and slings. In the shade late afternoon.

Leftmost line, a few meters down the path. 7 old expansion bolts, but also many slings. Do not clip the old bolts!

Set by Paul Brunner, 1997

Lefthand variation of the top section of 'Attic Antics'. All slings.

In some guidebooks, this route is confused with the original 'Attic Antics' route, and the subsequent routes are falsely labeled accordingly.

Set 2004

Loose rock. All slings.

Set by Paul Brunner, 1997

Old expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set by Paul Brunner, 1997

The main face at 'Diamond Cave' sector. Extremely busy during climbing school hours. Not recommended to climb here between 9 am and 4 pm.

Leftmost route on the main face. All titanium bolts.

Set by Sarut & Wang, 2000

Confused with 'Run Away' in some guidebooks. 1 titanium bolt, 7 slings.

Start climbing the unnamed 5, but then take the right bolt line to the higher anchor.

Set by Tu & Toto, 2008

Called 'Mr No Name' in some guidebooks. All slings.

Set by Yup, 2000

Shares the start with 'Mot Daeng', then straight up the left bolt line. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set by Dean Saydom, 2000

Warning Fixed Gear: !

Shares the start with 'Chok Dee', then veers right. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set by Yup, 2000

1 6a/a+ 20m
2 6a 15m
3 7a 35m

Old multi-pitch climb. Rusty expansion bolts and old slings on the upper two pitch. Only climb P1, which is therefore listed as a separate route.

Set by Nick Blaise & Martin Carstens, 1995

3 titanium bolts, 4 threads.

Set by Nick Blaise & Martin Carstens, 1995

3 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Set by Ralph Dietrich, Heide Dietrich & Vitsanu Rashsang, 1999

Rightmost line on the main face. Confused with 'Les Petites Oreilles' in some guidebooks. Not rebolted with titanium. Stainless steel glue-ins.

Around the corner on the right. Often free, even during climbing school hours.

All slings.

Set by Michael Hoffmann, 1995

Second pitch of 'Nullaktion'. Old slings and expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set by Michael Hoffmann, 2002

Called 'Diamonds are Forever' on some guidebooks, which is only the name of the second pitch. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set by Stefan Schmidt, 1995

Second pitch of 'Les Petites Oreilles'. 7 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set by Marel Eckhardt, 1995

Warning Flora and Fauna: Insect(wasp?) nest near 3rd sling

1 6b 23m
2 6c 15m
3 6c 20m
  1. 8 slings.

  2. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

  3. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set by Aduuh, Stips & Stefan Schmidt, 1995

Shares anchors with P1 of 'Seven Seven Seven'. 3 titanium bolts, 6 slings.

Set by Michael Hoffmann, 2002

Second pitch of 'Attacktit'. Can also be accessed from P1 of 'Seven Seven Seven'. 8 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set by Tom Cecil & John Rosholt, 1995

Old routes at the actual Diamond Cave. Bolting status unclear, probably old expansion bolts. Anyway most certainly not anymore climbable due to the existence of the Diamond Cave National Park.

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