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Muay Thai Mostly Sport climbing 24 routes in cliff

24
FR
4b+5a5b+6a6b6c7a7b

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
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D

Description

One of the oldest sectors on the Phra-Nang peninsula. Vertical climbing on highly structured though polished orange rock and some short routes on sharp rock up in the corner on the right side. Always busy with climbing schools and spectators. Do not come here if you prefer quiet spots.

Approach

Walk all the way to the right of Railay East bay. Routes start right of the beach and in the corner a little up behind the small hut.

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Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

Left Side Back to contents

Routes starting off the beach, right before the boulders leading to 'One-Two-Three'.

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2
4+ ★ New Route Sport 9m

New short and easy line just left of 'Shadow Show'.

Set: 2019

3
5 ★ Shadow Show Sport 12m, 4

Just before the boulders towards 'One-Two-Three', up the white streak. 3 titanium bolts, 1 sling Share start with Idapaccayada.

Set: Sam Lightner, 1994

4
6b+ ★ Idapaccayada Sport 12m, 6

Climbs 'Shadow Show', then veers right and finishes on the anchor of 'Shooting Through'. 4 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Frank Dicker & Volker Schoeffl, 1990

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5
7b Shooting Through Sport 12m, 6

Up the black streak right of 'Shadow Show'. Shares the anchor with 'Idapaccayada'. 3 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Phil de Joux, 1996

6
7a ★★ Nam Dtah See Som / Orange Tears Sport 16m, 6

Reachy move over the bulge at the start. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1990

7
6b ★★ Bad Boy Sport 15m, 7

Shares the start with 'Nuat Hin' and Pattica Samupade. Then straight up after the 3rd clip. 5 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set: Wee Changrua & Ratd, 2002

8
6a+ ★ Nuat Hin / Massage the Rock Sport 15m, 7

Shares the start with 'Bad Boy' and Pattica Samupade. Then climbs up right into the cave. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1990

9
6b+ ★ Pattica Samupade Sport 15m, 7

Shares the start with 'Nuat Hin' and Bad Boy. Then traverses right at the overhang and up the pillar. 4 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set: Frank Dicker & Volker Schoeffl, 1990

10
6a Piece of Cake Sport 13m, 3

Extension of 'Pattica Samupade'. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Thomas Arnold, 1997

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11
6b+ ★★ Muay Thai Sport 15m, 5

Crux at the first overhang. Be careful, a lead fall can be dangerous with the ledge below. All titanium bolts.

Set: Francois Burnier & Dominique Potard, 1990

12
6c+ ★ Chicken Head Sport 15m, 4

Starts just to right of 'Muay Thai'. All titanium bolts. Share start and anchor with Reaching Like a Monkey.

Set: Ralf Tenbrink & Louis, 1992

13
6c+ ★ Reaching Like a Monkey Sport 13m, 4

Shares the start and anchor with 'Chicken Head', then veers right. Not rebolted with titanium. All stainless steel glue-in bolts.

Set: Wee Changrua, 1996

Right Side Back to contents

Routes start a little up to the right behind the small hut in front of the beach. The belay area has a lot of roots and is sloping, so take care with your belay positions.

15
6a ★★ No Name Sport 8m, 3

Old route left of 'Deborah'. Rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb! Share anchor with Chicken Head and Reaching Like a Monkey.

16
6b ★★ Deborah Sport 8m, 3

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb!

Set: Jack Werajack, 1996

17
5 ★ Tamada Sport 10m, 4

All slings.

Set: Wee Changrua, 1999

18
6a ★ Hello Christine Sport 17m, 8

All slings.

Set: Wee Changrua, 1997

19
6a+ ★ Valentine Sport 12m, 7

Short climb with a cool little cave you can peek into. Solid rock, less polished than the routes over at 'One-Two-Three' wall. 3 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Set: Jack Werajack, 1996

20
6b ★ Alone Sport 15m, 7

5 titanium bolts, 2 slings

Set: Jack Werajack, 1996

21
5 ★ Take It to the Left Sport 10m

All slings.

22
6a ★★ Vegan Snake Top rope

Vegan Snake can only be climbed on top rope after the route next to it is climbed and a top rope is set.

NA: 1 Feb 2022

23
5 Take It Easy Sport 8m, 4

All slings.

Set: Wee Changrua, 1997

24
5 ★ The Beacons Memorial Climb Sport 8m

All slings.

25
5 ★ The Devine Ascention of Sully Sport 9m

All slings

26
5 ★ Unknown Route Sport 13m

Route furthest to the right, longer than the other easy climbs beside it. All slings.

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6a ★ Hello Christine
6a+ ★ Nuat Hin
6b+ ★★ Muay Thai

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★★ Nam Dtah See Som 7a - Nam Dtah See Som

Shen on ★ Pattica Samupade 6b+ - Tricky crux

guylanda on ★★ Vegan Snake 6a - vegansnake.jpg

★★ Muay Thai 6b+ - Muai Thai

Tue 18 Apr
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