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The Nest & Wild Kingdom

  • Grade context: FR
  • Approach time: 5 min
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 1,352

Seasonality

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Description

White and orange featured rock. Steep and pumpy climbing on the right ('Wild Kingdom'), structured but polished rock on the left ('The Nest'). Most climbs stay dry and/or dry quickly.

Access issues inherited from Ton Sai

No road access. From Ao Nang hire a longtail boat to take you around to Ton Sai. Boats only operate during the day.

Approach

Walk to the end of Ton Sai village. Before the curve, turn right into Paasook Bungalows. Turn left before the first blue bungalows and follow the trail to short fixed rope up the short slope. You will end up below the leftmost routes of 'Wild Kingdom'. To 'The Nest', follow the trail to the left for 50m.

Passing 'The Nest', you will find a small tunnel that gives access to 'Monkey World' and 'Tom's Cave'.

Routes

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Grade Route

The leftmost line up the tufa system. All slings.

Set by Frank Brassard, 2005

FA: Frank Brassard, 2005

Old slings. Do not climb until rebolted!

Set by Frank Brassard, 2005

Variant trad start to 'Caroline's Last Day P1', joins at the third bolt.

FA: Rachael Ellis, Jul 2015

6 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set by Tom Cecil & Mark Miner, 2001

The day this was put up a bulldozer sloughed the road that exists today--that's why it is called 'Dozer Days'. Great varied climb! All titanium bolts.

FA: Tom Cecil, 2001

Set by Tom Cecil & Mark Miner, 2001

Gives access to 'The Golden Bowl' sector. 2 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set by Tom, Tom Cecil & Mark Miner, 2001

4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set by Tom Cecil & Mark Miner, 2001

FA: Tom Cecil, 2001

Reachy start into the huecos, tricky crux to exit onto the ledge. 4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set by Tom Cecil, Mark Miner, Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer, 2001

Only the first half makes the grade. Pumpy climbing with big moves on big holds to a crux right before the ledge. Second half is an exposed but run up the pillar. 9 titanium bolts, 2 sling. Anchors only on 1 titanium and 2 expansion bolts.

Set by Sam Lightner, 2004

Certainly one of the most polished climbs in Ton Sai! Hard and pumpy for the grade. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set by Tom Cecil, Mark Miner, Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer, 2001

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb until rebolted!

Set by Mark Miner, 2002

Variation left of 'Little Fish P1'. Only bolted with expansion bolts. Climb in toprope.

This was the first route put up at 'The Nest'. It was named 'Banana Hammock' just to hear the various other foreigners say "what is this banana hammock?" said in a thick German accent--too funny. 6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set by Tom Cecil & Mark Miner, 2001

FA: Tom Cecil, 2001

Access this pitch by climbing at 6a level to the right and up after the 5th bolt on pitch 1 of 'Banana Hammock' to a separate belay anchor on top of the stalactite. Old expansion bolts. Do not climb until rebolted!

Set by Tom Cecil, 2003

FA: Tom Cecil, 2003

3 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set by Tom Cecil & Mark Miner, 2001

1 titanium bolt, 4 slings.

Set by Ernesto Lopez, 2000

3 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Set by Ernesto Lopez, 2000

Alternative second pitch left of 'Barato, Barato P2'. 4 titanium bolts, 7 slings.

Set by Ernesto Lopez, 2000

7 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set by Ernesto Lopez, 2000

4 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set by Mark Miner & Tom Cecil, 2000

Shares the first bolt with 'La Sangria' , then to the right. All titanium bolts.

Set by Mark Miner & Tom Cecil, 2002

Alternative second pitch, shares the first bolt with 'Breezes of the Past P2', then to the left. 5 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set by Ernesto Lopez & Daniel, 2000

All titanium bolts.

Set by Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer, 2000

Second pitch of 'Stick like a Tick'. Shares the last two bolts and anchors with 'Swingtown'. All titanium bolts.

Set by Daniel & Pascale, 2006

6 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set by Tom Cecil, 2000

Second pitch of 'Britishly White'. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb until rebolted!

Set by Tom Cecil, 2000

Alternative second pitch of 'Britishly White'. Shares the anchor with 'Wild Thing'. Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb until rebolted!

Set by Mark Miner & Cameron Fairburn, 2000

Old rusty expansion bolts. Do not climb until rebolted!

Set by Wee Changrua & Elke Schmitz, 2005

9 titanium bolts, 3 slings.

Set by Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer, 2000

9 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Set by Tom Cecil & Mark Miner, 2000

8 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

Set by Mark Miner & Cameron Fairburn, 2000

3 titanium bolts, 4 slings.

Set by Bob & Nilsa, 2007

Old slings, loose rock. Do not climb unless rebolted!

Set by Bob & Nilsa, 2007

Old slings, loose rock. Do not climb unless rebolted!

Set by Bob & Nilsa, 2007

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Activity

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