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Phra-Nang Beach

  • Grade context: FR
  • Approach time: 40 min
  • Photos: 6
  • Ascents: 447

Seasonality

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Description

Not the best crag on the peninsula, but it does actually have a surprisingly good selection of routes. Combine this with practically all bolts being nice new titanium, and the superb setting, this spot actually has quite a bit going for it. Climbers should respect the importance of the Princess Cave, and be aware that a lot of non-climbers will be here ... behave accordingly! Watch out for monkeys and local kids both of which often bail you up and/or steal your stuff, especially on the path back to Railay.

Approach

Walk to Phra-Nang beach. All routes start right off the beach.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Routes in the small roof and on the pocketed wall right on the beach.

Steep boulder problem in the cave marked 'V10'.

The leftmost route on this crag. Also the only one that continues past the lip of the roof and up the leaning headwall, all the way to the jungle. Not rebolted with titanium, 9 stainless steel glue-ins, 2 slings.

Set by Bjoern Alber, Nantawan Alber & Henrik Bolander, 2010

Climbs the short roof a few meters right of 'Genesis' to an anchor just above the lip. 4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

There seems to be the option of doing linkups via the rail 1-2m before the lip.

Set by Mike Tupper, 1991

Two meters left of 'Black Diamond'. Bouldery. Titanium bolts.

Set 1991

Dyno crux on the steep black rock a few meters left of 'Little Shit'. Always wet and slimy, impossible to climb after rain. Titanium bolts.

Set by Wee Changrua, 2012

The lefthand 6c taking a rail/flake for the steepest bit. Reportedly not very good, but with this grade and location it was always going to get heaps of traffic. Shares anchors with 'Princess Eyes'. All titanium bolts.

Set by Frank Dicker, 1990

The righthand 6c, this time getting through the steep bit on fingery pockets. This one is also supposed to be pretty average. Shares anchors with 'Little Shit'. Titanium bolts.

Set by Tex Somyod, 1992

Just left behind the tufa hanging down to 2m off the sand. Juggy rail to some tricky moves around the bulge then stem up the left side of the hanging tufa system. All titanium bolts.

Originally named 'Tales of Power' at grade 7c. Rebolted a little further right to an easier line. Some guidebooks kept the original name.

Set by Volker Schoeffl, 1991

Pockety steep start into the big huecos, then up the right side of the tufa system. The 4th bolt is actually on the side of the tufa. All titanium bolts.

Set by Todd Skinner, 1993

Linkup. Shares the start with 'Don't Buy Toys', then continue right into 'Mekong Haze' after the 3rd bolt. Titanium bolts.

Set by Local Thai climbers & KRFIC team, 2010

Just right of 'Don't Buy Toys'. Bit of a squeeze but looks great! All titanium bolts.

Set by Todd Skinner, 1993

Right of 'Mekong Haze'. Awesome moves! A short draw or single carabiner on the 2nd bolt is good at softening the swing back onto the belayer's rope for falls off the first crux. All titanium bolts.

Set by Mike Tupper & Todd Skinner, 1993

The righmost route on the eye-catching pocketed section of rock, and possibly the best here. All titanium bolts.

Set by Francois Burnier, 1991

Righthand variation than an extension of 'Up to You'. Veers right before the last bolt to a separate anchor a bit higher up. 30 degrees the whole way. All titanium bolts.

The original line was called 'Hot Dragon' and continued up right for another 5m at 8b grade. The old bolts have been chopped and the new shorter and easier route was called 'Half Dragon'. Some guidebooks kept the original name though.

Set by Todd Skinner & Mike Tupper, 1993

Set by Sarut & The RockShop, 2010

Subtract 2 grades if your span is 190cm+, or add two grades if it's less! Lovely rock, cool moves, all ruined by the last move. Over the bulge, then climb the easy cleft for 8m onto the steep wall just left of the cleft. 7 titanium bolts, 2 slings.

A couple of easier routes on the huge pillar at the right side of the beach. Always busy with climbing schools!

Just right of the cleft, the leftmost line on the Money Maker pillar. Slightly grungy black rock at times. The fixed hangers are shiny, but beware.

Set by Tex Somyod, 2010

Just left of 'Money Maker'. Titanium bolts and slings.

Set by Tex Somyod, 2010

Start on the left side of the Money Maker pillar and go straight up. Top half is nice and delicate. 4 titanium bolts, 1 sling.

Shares the start with 'Money Maker', then trend right. Titanium bolts.

Originally this route was a 90m multi-pitch. Only the first pitch was rebolted and now carries the name.

Set by Francois Burnier, 1991

Start on the front of the column, then straight up into 'Phra-Nang Princess'.

Set 2010

Steepish start up the corner on the right side of the pillar. Finish inside a cave. 1 titanium bolt, 4 slings.

Set by Tex Somyod & Nantawan Alber, 2010

Climbs uo right of 'Back to Mani', all the way to the top of the pillar, sharing anchor with 'Money Maker'. No bolts, climb toprope.

Starts in the corner right of the Money Maker pillar and climbs up right onto the face. All titanium bolts.

The original line was one of the first routes on the Phra-Nang peninsula and climbed on further right for a total length of 35m. However, due to the proximity to the Princess Cave and the many tourists below on the beach, only the first half has been rebolted and the original bolts have been chopped.

Set by Thierry Renault, Marlie Walsh & Kurt Albert, 1989

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