Khao Jeen Lae Guide

Only sport climbing for the first 4 pitches. Do not go above this without trad gear.

Walk left past all the single pitch climbing

First 4 pitches are sport and after that is Trad. You will need a rack of cams and nuts and slings.

Hard summit as heavy vegetation. Best to rap down same route but will rope has high potential of getting stuck.

Mega Classic route, basically every local Bangkok climber's project at some point in their lives. Difficult moves on small holds. Doesn't let up. Must try!

Re-bolt by Gee (Jan 2023).

Re-bolt by Gee (Jan 2023)

Scramble up to the big ledge. Route starts at the top of the dirt hill in a small passage where the blue fixed line can be used as a handrail. Beware of rockfall.

Scramble up to the big ledge. Starts a few meters to the left, up the dirty gully.

Scramble up to the big ledge. Starts at the bottom of the small dirt hill where the blue fixed line starts

Scramble up to the big ledge. Route is in the small chimney-esque corner about 3m right from Som Tum Pah. There are belay bolts available directly under the route, please use them to belay from the small incut ledge directly under the route.

Good route to practice multi-pitching. There is a practice anchor available half way up.

Or scramble up to the big ledge to the start of the second pitch. Route is the line that goes over onto the slight overhanging feature.

Easy route on the big boulder looking rock. Good for cleaning anchor practice.

Starts above 'Kai Ped' / 'Kai Gai' .

Starts above 'Kai Ped' / 'Kai Gai'

Starts above 'Kai Ped' / 'Kai Gai'

1. 28m (6a+) 8 bolts

2. 21m (6a) 8 bolts

3. 30m (6a) 7 bolts & 1 piton

Start just to the L of Last Day.

1. 30m (5+) 12 Quickdraws

2. 25m (5) 8 Quickdraws

3. 35m (5) 9 Quickdraws

4. 30m (5) 8 Quickdraws

5. 33m (5) 8 Quickdraws

6. 33m (5+) 6 Quickdraws

7. 20m (3-4) No bolts.

Abseil Descent using Corcovado's Anchors.

share start with High and Low.

1. 17m (5) 5 Quickdraws

2. 15m (6c+) 7 Quickdraws

share start with 1st pitch of Last Day. Anchor has two pigs tails for lower off.

Anchor has two rings. No chain.

1. Three Dwarves and a Nut.

2. 36m (6a) 12 Quickdraws

3. 30m (6a) 9 Quickdraws

4. 26m (6a) 9 Quickdraws

5. 36m (6b) 11 Quickdraws

6. 17m (5+) 5 Quickdraws

7. 20m (2+) No Bolts.

Bring a second rope for abseiling pitch 4 on the descent.

share start with It Fits.

The overhanging section makes it slightly more difficult than other 6as in the area. Otherwise, very cruisey.

share start with Arai Wa?.

Slightly intimidating start.

A little crimpy fun action.

Good route for outdoor beginners. Very cruisey easy climbing the whole way through. Be a little bit careful of the cactus on top when clipping the anchor and cleaning.

Low first crux, mostly body positioning all the way. A little run out at the top.

Mega Classic, one of the best lines in Lop Buri. Beautiful, sustained climbing almost the whole way, mega pump. Extend draws when necessary to prevent rope drag.

⚠️ 70m rope is just enough

To the left of Nok Khao. Climb into the cave as climbing Pratimakam and punch out to the left to the base of the long stalactite system on the steep overhanging wall.

You can choose to belay here for less drag. Otherwise fire up the never ending stalactite and bear hug your way up some cool climbing. Wall gets steeper towards the chains and require lot of endurance and funky foot work. Lower back to the ground with a single 70m rope

Name inspired by the local song everyone was plagued by while bolting the route!

Thanks to Verticale (Malaysia for the Singing Rock hangers) and Kang Hao for flying out here to put up this route and generous donation

*

>>>>>> Credit. TaoSpeedWagon Duplicate info from MountainProject.com

Extension of 'Leverage'

Some features here are really fragile so be careful. Followed by firing up the what feels like 60degree overhanging hang cracks to a thank god jug.

Traverse out on the thin rail on a no feet traverse and hit a series of pockets and jugs. A interesting sequence before ending on the huge jug system on top.

Good job, your forearms is done for the day.

If you are belaying from the base of the stalactite, A 70m should get you back into the cave.

Same anchor as Pratimakam.

Same anchor as Kooha Sawan.

Great route for a warm up. The crux is a little tricky for shorter climbers. Go direct if you can, bear right if you really can't.

Mixed trad

1. Pete's Retreat.

2. 35m (6a) 12 Quickdraws

3. 30m (6b) 10 Quickdraws

4. 35m (6b) 10 Quickdraws

5. 30m (6b+) 9 Quickdraws

6. 30m (5+) No bolts

7. 15m (2+) No bolts

Abseil Descent on Corcovado on the Left Side.

Same anchor as Obelisk.

Bolted and FA by Tao Techakanon and Will Patera, Jan 2020 ............................

FFA'ed by QX and Kelly Khiew

Same anchor as '8c+' .

Looks harder than it actually is! Very fun crimpy climb. Clipping the anchor is a little intimidating as you have to reach over this crevice.

Right of Obelix on the arete

1. Obelisk.

2. 30m (6b)

3. 40m (6b)

4. 27m (6a)

5. 30m (5)

6. 28m (5+) Beware of big loose rocks. Stay on the wall on the left.

7. 15m (2+)

Abseil Descent on Corcovado on Left side of Wall.

(Bolted by Chow)

Start on Getafix and climb out right of the roof

Climb up the steep tufa to the right of the cave and layback the crack or stem between the crack and tufa to a roof. The crux starts on these steep jug pulling into a finger crack and ends just before the rock gets too sharp.

Short and sweet. With a steep exit. Jam it straight in like a trad dad or pull down like a sport climber. Great to get away from the crowds in the middle of the wall.

This is the first route on the lefthand side wall in the upper tier of Star wall.

Second route on the lefthand wall.

There is a decent rest hold where your hand is basically a starfish hence the alternate name. The tree is on but the tree is slippery. Decide on your own if you wanna use it.

Send train on the day has been started by Gee, followed by Boat and ending with Tony. Tony already packed up his stuff, had fomo after the other two sent it and then gave it one last crack.

A very cool, wierd and technical climb in the wide corner crack.

Another Multipitch climb on Khao Chin Lae 2 added in 2024. Rap bolted over one week.

A peculiar climb in terms of techniques with a shorter length than its neighboring multi-pitch route. However, given its wandering nature and "blue-collared" style of climbing, it is one of the more unique routes compared to just about anything in Thailand.

1. Start on "Star Gate". If you are good at squeeze-chimney then it can be a breeze. If not, expect to thrutch and flail, all with plenty of profanities. Don't go shirtless or wear your favorite shirt for this pitch. Belay at a spacious ledge. (BEST OPTION IS TO HAUL BAGS UP AFTER THE FIRST CLIMBER HAS TOPPED OUT)

2. Follow the obvious face climb to a small crux sequence. This pitch feels like a much-needed break after the first pitch. Ends on a hanging belay (6A+ 20m).

3. Easy climbing up some sharp black rock. Belay from a large spacious ledge (6A 20m) *Linking P2 and P3 is recommended to skip the hanging belay *

4. From the big ledge, scramble up to gain a corner with good rock quality which continues up for several bolts then traverses hard to the right. Another hanging belay here (6A, 20m)

5. One of the money pitch. Traverse hard right and up through overhanging terrain with a lot of exposure and a short crux sequence. Best not to take a fall here as the climber (both lead and follower) will end up hanging in space. Make sure you know how to prusik up the rope should this be the case. Two belays are possible on this gigantic ledge (6B+, 20m)

6. A short final pitch (Do as a single pitch climb and lower from anchor no top out) - Start on another mandatory squeeze/OW for the first 5m to gain a very prominent roof. Exit the roof on very sharp rock to gain an anchor (6B+/C, 10m)

Descent Beta

• The first rappel is crucial, and it is of utmost importance you aim as far as you can to the climber's left (See pictures and topo) which will put you directly over P5's anchor. Make sure you back clip your rappel or you could end up in hanging space (not ideal)

• 4 more straightforward rappels get you back to the ground.

** Credit Tao on MP

Cool moves, with a little technical crimpy crux

Right-hand most route in the upper tier of Star Wall.

An awesome 4 pitch route, can make it 5 pitches if you start on 'Prik' or 'Prik Thai' and travers left from the anchor 1 bolt and then reach the start of the multi pitch anchor.

1. (6a) 35m. A bit of a dirty start leads up to otherwise very good rock on less-than-vertical terrain. The climbing, while easy, is varied and interesting. The rock quality is very high in the middle to upper section and can take both nuts and cam well. This pitch very well can be used to teach gear placement for new trad leaders.

2. (5c) 15m. A short pitch but still interesting. Low-angle climbing on good rock (still take gear in medium size well) into a cruxy bulge right before reaching the belay at a huge cave. P1 and P2 definitely can be combined with good gear management.

3. (6b) 20m. The crux pitch with a dicey opening move after the first bolt on Tufa into a good stance. Don't blow it. The rest of the pitch is slightly overhanging jug hauling on good flakes. Pure fun. 2 belays on a small ledge or medium ledge are available so take your pick.

4. (5a) 15m. Sharp and not-so-fun climbing (just like the rest of last pitch of MP on khao chin lae) to reach the summit.

Descent - Rappel the route.

Rap 1 - 35m rappel from the summit will take you down to the start of P3. Make sure to knot the end and back clip so you can back to the belay

Rap 2 - 15m rappel from the cave to the start of P2

Rap 3 - 35m rappel with rope stretch gets you back to the ground

Shares an anchor with Prik

Tribute to David & Xavi. Two crazy Spanish people who came to Lopburi, climbed all the routes in 10 days and made the whole village smile.

Beware of loose rock. Belayer please wear a helmet.

It stands for " Steve Daltrey & Marcella ". Get your mind out of the gutter!

Named after these two legends. Thanks for helping us with the crag updates and everything 🫶

Beware of loose rock. Belayer please wear a helmet.

Easy start until gaining overhanging arete. Make a couple of powerful bouldery moves to get a good rest then charge up another small roof through the Hueco

First route at Sukhumvit Wall which was climbed ground up on trad then rap-bolted later.

Only recommend if you're very well solid at the grade. Stick-clipping the 2nd bolt is recommended if you're pushing this grade and don't want to risk hitting the deck.

Rock quality can be suspected in certain spots

Starts left of the big tree.

Moderate climbing until the angle kicks back where what seems like a very hard boulder problem crux over a bulge. The bulge then continues into possibly another crux which is an overhang finger crack.

The climb then appears to ease out toward the last 15 feet.

Has not been free-climbed (FA) as of Jan 2024. Suggested grade is purely speculated

Mega classic route. A wide variety of styles all in one

Same start with Cowboyrider !! move right after fourth bolt

Easy climbing to a dynamic Crux. Jump for glory to a jug. Use the small intermediates if you are short.

In memory of bolters dogs Crisp and Tofu!!

P.S. Tofu's ashes are stored under the climb please go say hi to my dog when you visit (so he doesn't get lonely).

Fun boulder start and a crux right before the ledge.

Crux sandwich

6B/6C until the last 2 bolts then it goes insane.

Last route on the right. Climb up towards a fun stemming section.

Belayer wear helmet as there is rock fall potential!

Extend or alpine draw on the bolt that is on the overhang

Only climb on cliff.

1. 20m (6a) 6 Quickdraws

2. 24m (6a+) 6 Quickdraws

P1 8 bolts, P2 5 bolts

Once you reach the top of the crag the wall will be on the left side of the tunnel. Small wall with 4 routes. This is the left most line

Dayoon our 2nd competition winner, named the route after her mothers favourite flower. Thanks for the support!

Chill start to some crimpy fun

Named by competition winner Fai. Thank you for all the support for Whip Drip and the climbing community.

Warning Flora and Fauna: Bee nest on top

Warning Fixed Gear: Rusty Anchor

Looks easier than it actually is. Lighter belayers beware of the rather awkward belay station.

Warning Fixed Gear: Rusty Chains at Anchor

Classic route! Possibly one of the best in the area. Easy climbing until the crux that lives up to its name.

Warning Fixed Gear: Rusty Quicklink at Anchor

Warning Rock: Loose rock between 2nd and 3rd clip

Pumpy but fun climbing. Slightly harder than other routes of the grade in the area if it isn't your style.

Warning Flora and Fauna: Top is covered in vines