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Description

Only one of the routes here has been bolted for sport climbing. Very little pro placements are apparent. Scramble to the top via Thin Man's Crack/Normal Route and set top ropes from there to do these climbs.

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Access issues inherited from Kkungu Rock

There is a warm, friendly and curious local community. Previous climbers have negotiated to pay a 5k parking fee to the rock’s security man, Omar. Please be respectful and help preserve the nice relationship. Religious ceremonies take place at the rock on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. Climbers in small groups have been allowed to climb on these days, but they are best avoided. Permission for Monday, Wednesday, and Friday climbs have been granted by the local community, but small, quiet, respectful groups of climbers have never been turned away, regardless of the day. Chances are, you've never seen a site like this!

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Ethic inherited from Kkungu Rock

Please be respectful of the local religious ceremonies. Please bolt at a minimum. To this point, we have only used stainless steel expansion bolts which should last for several generations. If you bolt, please only use top quality equipment.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Matt Battani (Matt Battani)

Routes

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Grade Route

Set by Adam Herring

FA: Adam Herring & Alex Fisher

Go straight up the slabs avoid using the seems on the left.

Set by Adam Herring

FA: Adam Herring & Alex Fisher

Set by Adam Herring, 5 Feb

FA: Adam Herring & Alex Fisher, 5 Feb

After an assisted start with a bamboo ladder, follow the easy arete to the chain.

Set by Matt Battani, 5 Feb

FA: Adam Herring & Alex Fisher, 5 Feb

To access the top via the normal route, you must move through then up the prayer crack, and then squeeze out the Thin Man's Crack to the ledge. If the squeeze is too tight, use the chimney. After exiting the crack onto the ledge, turn left and scramble up the large boulder. You'll find two belay chains up there for the routes on the southwest. Then, go back down the boulder towards the prayer crack and move towards the north side of the rock where you'll find a short but exciting little lead route bolted to help you to the very top of Kkungu Rock. Approximately 9m and 5 clips (20). Enjoy the view and wave to the school children.

Set by Matt Battani, 5 Feb

FA: Matt Battani, 5 Feb

This route shares the chain belay with Normal Route. It is a long and very challenging route that should be developed for sport climbing at some point.

FA: Alexandra Fisher, 28 Oct

Move through the prayer crack pictured. On prayer days, be respectful and wait your turn. At the far end of the crack, squeeze out to the top or use the chimney to the exit on the ledge. From the ledge, you can access the Normal Route and a number of the top rope chains. Alternatively, you can access the top via the easier Northeast corner routes, however, as these are not yet bolted for lead climbing, the Normal Route is the only protected way to the top.

From the prayer crack, there are a variety of chimney routes to the top. The crack is quite wide, but narrow enough to chimney in a few places. Protection is either poor or non-existent, so set a top rope and enjoy! Nothing in the prayer crack has been bolted as of Feb 2018.

FA: Benoit Fabre, 5 Feb

FA: Hugo Hotte, 5 Feb

Set by Matt Battani

FA: Matt Battani, 5 Feb

Set by Thijs Van Laer

FA: Thijs Van Laer, 5 Feb

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