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Summary

A beautiful climbing area above a river, but small and only a couple good routes, Kilembe is worth checking out only if you are nearby. There is also potential for further development.

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Description

Not the best climbing in the country, but a couple nice routes nonetheless. If you are doing a Rwenzori Trek via the Kilembe Trail, you are right near the trailhead, so take your climbing gear for a little cragging before/after tackling the Rwenzori.

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Access issues

Free and unrestricted. The local tour company, Rwenzori Trekking Services, helps climbers use this crag.

The benefit here is that it is outside the national park (RMNP), so you can climb here and avoid the high park fees.

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Approach

Park at the Trekkers/Backpackers (Rwenzori Trekking Service (RTS)) hostel. From there, you can easily walk to the crag. With directions from the hostel staff, it is easy to find and shouldn't take more than 10-20 mins. The coordinates are: 0.21083333, 30.00527778. It is just above the river and only about 1km from the hostel.

To find on your own without RTS or GPS help, the climbing 'wall' is on the right side of the first bridge encountered when heading from Backpackers hostel in Kilembe towards Kasese.

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Where to stay

RTS hostel

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Ethic

This part of Uganda sees lots of foreign trekkers heading into the Rwenzori, so a few climbers will be no surprise to local people. The welcome is nice and friendly. I suspect developing this crag would be welcomed by the local people, though there isn't much room for further bolting.

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History

View historical timeline

This crag has been used to train RTS guides in rappelling. It isn't actually climbed very often. The French military has also used this crag to train Uganda's soldiers (UPDF) in rappelling.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Matt Battani (Matt Battani)

Routes

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Grade Route

Rap down to the start as there is no trail to the base of this crag. This goes for all routes at Kilembe.

Oreochromis Niloticus is a few meters to the left. The two routes join part way up. Crux is near the bottom of this one.

Crux near the bottom.

The lowest section of the crag and farthest left when facing the rock.

This is the hardest route at the crag. Still no free ascent. Climbers have done this via TR or not at all.

Can use gear and bolts on the way up.

Must rap into this one, like most routes at this crat. Mostly blocky crack climbing. Well protected most of the way. Good trad gear placement practice. Only the anchor itself is bolted.

A good warm up route.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Kilembe.