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Mt. Wati All Trad climbing

1 route in area
  • Grades: SA
  • Approach time: 20-30 mins
  • Photos: 7
  • Ascents: 1
  • Aka: Burua Rock

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Summary

A beautiful, yet undeveloped area well worth the visit if you are in this part of Uganda.

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Description

The largest mountain in the region of West Nile, Mt. Wati offers some great hiking and climbing potential. Nothing is bolted as of 2018, but a number of features and cracks offer protected trad climbing. Make sure to try this in dry season as some of the rock stays wet/slimy in rainy season.

Lots of crack climbing here. Rock quality is excellent. Cracks are often full of dirt and grass. Generally lots of good placements for pro.

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Access issues

The road to the base of Mt. Wati is pretty terrible, so plan accordingly. We used a Land Rover Defender and the local population said they had not seen cars in a couple weeks. The main roads were good most of the way, but the last km or so to the school was pretty bad.

Free and unrestricted access. Parking is nearby at Mt. Wati Primary School. Pay some shillings to park. 2-5k should be fine.

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Approach

From the school, the approach is about 20-30 mins uphill along village trails. Many locals are keen to show you the way and even climb or hike with you.

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Where to stay

Arua is about an hour away. Otherwise, camping at the school is possible. If you pay the headmaster a few shillings, he will let you pitch a tent on the school's grounds.

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Ethic

Mt. Wati has only been rock climbed once. Hikers from Arua visit here and summit at least a few times per year. The local community will certainly be happy to see you if you give out some gifts or cash. This isn't necessary and not particularly helpful to future climbers as it sets a bad precedent. However, if you employ any guide or porter, or camp on someone's land, you should expect to negotiate and pay a fair price.

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History

View historical timeline

No known history of climbers on this rock. It is not mentioned in any of the previous guidebooks or anywhere online.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Matt Battani (Matt Battani)

Routes

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Grade Route

Follow the somewhat off-width crack up, trending left towards a comfortable ledge with a large three easily slung for a rap off. We used large and small cams on this pitch. The crack demanded cams rather than nuts.

We explored to the left and right of this ledge, but found the way up to the summit of Wati too difficult. It was wet/slimy/mossy in July, so we gave up. Climbing this in dry season, for example December or January, might be much easier.

We estimated the full climb to the summit of Mt. Wati might be 2-4 pitches.

FFA: Matt Battani & U Pitsch, 22 Jul 2017

Activity

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