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Description

A nice selection of tough problems and opportunities for FAs!

The descent is tricky. Basically, climb down the tree covered in biting ants.

In the future, to make bouldering here safer, Ishma could be hired to clear the area around the bottom. Careful not to damage the tree as it is really needed for all descents.

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Access issues inherited from Nsiita

Free for everyone. Insita Luwazi is on community land. Climbers have always had a warm welcome. We pay 3000 Uganda Shillings to park at a nearby house. There is some occasional conflict in the community about who should get those shillings. Up to now, this has not affected the climbers. Call Ishma at: 0773 128 861 and tell him you are coming or just show up. He will let you park in front of his house and can show you around the crag if needed. Ishma maintains the trail to Insita and can clean/thrash the belay area if needed. You can also buy local food and produce from Ishma if you choose. Climbing at camping at Insita Luwazi is free.

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Approach

You'll see this boulder on the left of the main trail up to Insita.

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Ethic inherited from Nsiita

Insita is pretty developed, so there isn't much room to bolt new routes. If you see a line you'd like to add, please check with the Mountain Club of Uganda.

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History

View historical timeline

Discovered and opened by Elie Bou-Gharios in 2015. Locals have told us climbers used this boulder in the 90s, but we have no descriptions or record from them.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Matt Battani (Matt Battani)

Routes

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Grade Route

This is the harder, sit start variation of the V5 Termite Be Your Last Step. This climb is a project and has yet to be sent.

Very sharp slab with a slightly positive incline. Incredibly small holds and bad footholds. All side pulls to the right of the holds are out-of-bounds, see photo below.

Start sitting on the small rock beneath the boulder and pull up off the ground on the left-hand side pull and the right-hand three-finger sloper, as shown in the beta photo.

First move is a big, right hand throw to a small crimp (Crux move). Then left hand to the small, sharp crimp above your right hand, chalked intermediates can be seen in the photo. Then right hand to the wide sloper pinch directly above and bring your feet up. Right foot high, stand up, reach for the left hand side pull and lean back on it. Crank in with the left and find a good, wide sloper above and then top.

Set by Elie Bou-Gharios, 2015

This is the easier, stand start variation of the V7 Termite Be Your Last Breath.

Very sharp slab with a slightly positive incline. Incredibly small holds and bad footholds. All side pulls to the right of the holds are out-of-bounds, see photo.

Start standing on the small rock beneath the boulder and pull up off the ground on the left-hand side pull and the right-hand crimp, as shown in the beta photo.

First move is left hand to the small, sharp crimp above your right hand, chalked intermediates can be seen in the photo. Then right hand to the wide sloper pinch directly above and bring your feet up. Right foot high, stand up, reach for the left hand side pull and lean back on it. Crank in with the left and find a good, wide sloper above and then top.

Set by Elie Bou-Gharios, 2015

FFA: Elie Bou-Gharios, 2015

FA: Elie Bou-Gharios, 2015

Easy, stand start, warm-up route on great pockets and abundant footholds, should be mandatory climbing for all who visit Luwazi.

Set by Elie Bou-Gharios, 2015

FFA: Elie Bou-Gharios, 2015

FA: stand start, warm-up route on great pockets, abundant footholds, should be mandatory climbing for all who visit Luwazi. & Elie Bou-Gharios, 2015

Start with the tree a meter or two to your left. Use the jugs to get off the ground. Then, step right onto the small ledge. From there, just friction climb to the top. Use the tree to descend.

Set by Matt Battani, 13 Dec 2017

FFA: Matt Battani, 13 Dec 2017

FA: Matt Battani, 13 Dec 2017

Activity

Check out what is happening in Elie's Boulder.