The central line of weakness in the suspended white and pink wall is brilliant. Start via a scramble to a good ledge directly below the wall, as for Pink Ginsane.
5a, 30m. As for Pink Ginsane, then traverse right to a stance at a quarry spike and bolt at the top off Krapp's Last Tape.
6a, 25m. Move left from the spike belay to a steep wall below a small overhang with two bolts in it. Climb with difficulty past the bolts and over the left end of the overhang to an easing and a peg at the base of a long groove. Climb the groove to a bolt and stretch past it to a better series of cracks that are climbed to a belay ledge and tree.
5c, 14m. Move left along the break to below a right-slanting thin crack with a peg near its base. Climb past the peg and continue a short distance before better holds lead leftwards up the wall away from the crack to the top and a tree belay.
There is no known route history.
E3 | Assigned grade |
★★★Daniel Mateos | |
E3 | ★★★Sam Pegler |
Author(s): Martin Crocker
Date: 2017
ISBN: 9780957281547
A definitive rock climbing guidebook covering the Avon Gorge, situated in the centre of Bristol, detailing Suspension Bridge Area, Main Wall Area, Sea Walls Area, and Leigh Woods Area.
Author(s): Steve Broadbent
Date: 2024
ISBN: 9781913167127
A selective guidebook describes the best sport climbing areas in the southern half of England and Wales, describing 101 crags and over 4,600 routes covering Carmarthen Bay, the Gower Peninsula, Swansea Bay, the Welsh Valleys, Gilwern, the Wye Valley, Avon, north side of Cheddar Gorge, Portland, Lulworth, Swanage, Devon, and Cornwall.
Author(s): Mark Glaister
Date: 2022
ISBN: 9781873341889
10 top climbing areas of the southwest of England - Wye Valley, Avon and Somerset, North Devon, Culm Coast, Inland Cornwall, Atlantic Coast, West Penwith, The Lizard, Inland Devon and Torbay
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