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Sheepstor

  • Grade context: UK
  • Approach time: 5-10 mins
  • Photos: 8
  • Ascents: 68

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Description

sheeps tor is a wall of vertical granite, split by cracks of all shapes and sizes. the climbs here are all worthwile, and provide a high concentration of easy to mid grade routes that are not too intimidating.

Approach

head towards Burrator reservoir (near to Yealmpton) once you get to the reservior head across the dam and follow signs to the hamlet of sheepstor. pass through the hamlet and take the first right onto open moorland. along the road there are several spaces to park. from here head up the hill to the crag.

Routes

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Grade Route

a fairly tough line that has some very good moves and feels much longer than it actually is. start at a crack system 5m right of the edge of the crag.

the central line of sheepstors largest face is the crags best route. start at the foot of the highest point just to the left of the large slab.

the thin crack in the upper wall above slab route is short but challenging. start as for crack and chimney

one of the best of its grade on dartmoor, start on the left hand side of the slab in the corner.

a steep boot wide crack in the corner right of the slab. start beneath the crack.

the short but tricky route leading up the black wall to the right of the central arete

a good old fashioned crack, start at the base of the first crack just to the right of the central arete.

the capping overhang that runs right across the wall has a number of breaks that provide cruxes for all routes that cross it. start just right of omega crack

a much attempted line that sees some epics. start below the cracks that point the way to the middle break in the upper overhang.

another good little pitch that is perhaps the easiest of the three severes on this section of the wall. start at the base of the crack that leads to the right of the overhangs.

a sheeps tor classic that is now very polished. start at the base of a very polished corner on the right hand side of the crag

a well trodden and a un-intimidating climb, starting at the stepped corner.

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Activity

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