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Routes

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Grade Route

HS 4a 15m, 4b 20m, ? 30m

S 4a 25m, 4a 15m, 4a 20m

A much-ascended classic taking the easiest line up Plum Buttress © Rockfax

One long mixed pitch with many different styles.

1 5a
2 5a
1 5b
2 4c
1
2 4c

A superb route with exposed climbing at a reasonable grade. The most popular route in Wales, according to UKC Logbooks, which means it is often busy. Start at the base of Vector Buttress below a short steep groove with a large tree on a ledge on the left.

  1. 4b, 25m. Climb blocks to a large tree. Traverse left for 5m behind the tree and move up ledges to the base of a short groove. Climb up this to a ledge and belay on a massive flake.

  2. 4c, 30m. Step left around the corner (possible belay here if crowded). Climb up cracks to a memorable move up and right to a small ledge and spike above the roof. Climb up the slab via some small ledges until level with a crack/niche on the right. Move right into it and then climb up this, the crux being the final step onto the slab above, which leads up to another stance on the right below and left of the final flake pitch.

  3. 15m. Move up to runners and traverse the unlikely looking flake hanging in space. Mantel on to the ledge, optional belay here. Move back left and scramble up a groove to belay on the top of the crag proper. © Rockfax

FA: C.Jones & R.Moseley, 1958

FA: P Williams C Shorter, 1980

FA: Joe Brown, 1960

1 5b
2 5b
1 5c
2 5c
1 4b 30m
2 4c 24m
1 4c 34m
2 5a 24m

FA: R James

Up Meschach, but keep going up flakes to finish up crack just to left of Shadrach.

1 35m
2 4b 18m
3 4b
4 4c

VS 35m, 4b 18m, 4b, 4c

FA: C. Jones & T. Jones, 1957

1 5c
2 5a
1 5a
2 5a

Another popular climb that has a particularly fine top pitch. Start below the big diamond-shaped wall, left of the polished slab.

  1. 4c, 20m. Climb left up a crack to an overhang. Now make a hard move up and right up two cracks and into the base of a groove. An easier alternative is to step left at the overhang and then move up right along a ramp to the base of the groove. Climb the groove to an exciting exit left at the top to a belay.

  2. 5a, 30m. Climb the slab up and left to the base of a wide crack. Climb this to where it gets too wide and step out right onto the arete and follow easier ground up and left to a ledge below a steepening crack. Arrange gear and step left onto the headwall to gain a steep crack on the left which leads to the top. © Rockfax

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