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Description

Small crag on Bangor mountain behind the graveyard. Has two main traverse lines at V5 and V8 and a few other boulder problems at V3/V4. In addition I did also notice a single line of bolts. Information about the crag seem reasonably hard to come by!

Approach

The quarry can be accessed by walking up Hendrewen Road along the side of the graveyard. Leave the road to follow the graveyard's back wall, a path which is often pretty overgrown. At the far corner of the graveyard continue on until a fork appears. The right fork leads to the quarry pool, however the doesn't provide access. The left fork continues to a bike track. Cross the track and head right and uphill for 20 metres until you re-enter the wooded area on a steep descending path.

Routes

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Grade Route

As you enter the quarry it is made up of 2 "alcoves" the right wall of the left hand alcove is the main bouldering wall. A traverse of this wall in either direction goes at around V5.

Low level right-to-left eliminate traverse of the main bouldering wall. Follow the obvious line of crimpy holds (i.e. the footholds on the higher traverse line), before rising up to finish on a jug on the line of the higher traverse. The problem avoids some low ‘sticking out’ rocks at the start and some large undercuts on the left.

FA: Ashley Clarke, 2007

From standing start just to the right to the diagonal feature work your feet up on the left to gain the larger holds to the right of the diagonal feature, follow these holds to finish. Beware some small loose bits. Probably climbed before but doesn't appear to have been previously recorded.

Form a sit down start follow the diagonally trending feature line. Holds towards the top are dirty! Probably climbed before but doesn't appear to be recorded anywhere.

From a standing start, stand up to gain the jug on the right, rock over onto a very high left foot to finish on the ledge up to the left. Probably climbed before but doesn't seem to have been recorded anywhere.

On the wall opposite the main bouldering wall climb the obvious feature. Probably climbed before but doesn't appear to be recorded anywhere.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Graveyard Quarry.