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Wintour's Leap

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 46

Seasonality

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Summary

Long limestone routes in a storied location

Description

Wintour's leap has many long trad routes well worth a visit. The limestone here is sometimes loose and a tad dirty, but the routes are the longest you'll find anywhere near here. Some real classics exist.

Access issues

There are multiple access issues, see UkC for current advice.

Approach

Park near the old (sadly closed) pub in woodcroft. Currently scramble down the easy way is the prefered entry, check UkC for updates.

Ethic

Trad, often with fixed pegs or threads. Some sport routes.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 5b 24m
2 4c 21m

Crank powerfully into the blank corner. Follow this up and through the two roofs above, generally with pitons for protection. Abseil lower-off at top.

Follow the large yellow wall. Start just right of a bolt. A hard move protects the better climbing above. Crank straight through the top roof after clipping pitons for protection

1 4b
2 4a

Two pitches both around 25m up to the Great Ledge. The original top pitch is no longer available due to access considerations.

The first pitch is a 4b due to a difficult (for the grade) overhang but well protected by a peg.

The second pitch is a 4a, but has a bold section above 2 pegs for around 6m that is only protected by micro-wires.

Tree belay, and abseil station to the right on the Great Ledge - a pair of 50m ropes just reach the ground.

1 4b
2 4a
3 4c
4 4b

Third pitch crux is good value for VS. Start at the right hand side of the cliff (north wall) and follow the obvious crack line in the corner over the small overhangs. Belay on the first decent tree. continue behind the belay, up a corner groove and over another small roof to a big tree belay again. Now go slightly left then back up right a few metres to near another tree and climb up from there to the base of the obvious slab with the overlap at the top. Moves up the slab past a finger ledge to the overlap are quite tricky and would be very bold but for the peg. Pull over and belay on the great terrace. The 4th pitch looks terrible, better to finish up right hand route (straight up through the obvious v-notch in the overhangs then up the easy chimney), or you can just reach the ground from the great ledge with an abseil on double 50m ropes.

A long ramble up to the left of the easy way down. Start is an obvious cleared patch. From here ramble your way up the cliff following the occasional peg and plenty of shrubs for threads.

Start at the pocketed wall 3 metres left of the end of the 'Easy Way Down'. Climb direct to the ledge, then follow the crack and groove. Trend slightly right to finish at a tree belay.

A sustained technical route requiring commitment and care. A good selection of micro-wires will prove useful. Four pegs help protect the route. Finish at a two-peg and tree belay. The belay pegs are fitted with mallions to facilitate an abseil descent.

1 4a 24m
2 4a 12m
3 12m
4 4a 15m

Tree belay at end of 1st, 3rd and 4th pitches. Peg, nut and stake belay at end of 2nd pitch. The second pitch is the standout. Beware the polish.

1 5a
2 5a

Short for 'Great Overhanging Wall'. The place to be if you are operating in the mid-E grades.

This terribly named climb covers some excellent sport climbing.

1 5b 40m
2 5a 40m
3 10m

Marked start in a corner with obvious rockfall. Nice sustained jamming, considered a classic of the grade.

1 5a 12m
2 4b 15m

FA: 1967

1 4b 12m
2 4c 18m

FA: 1967

1 4c 12m
2 4b 15m

FA: 1967

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