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Summary
Chert
Sedimentary
Located right in the middle of San Francisco, you'll find a handful of fun, moderate slab routes on one of the largest exposed slickensides in the world.
Description
Vertical
Crack
Face
Always shady
Sheltered from wind
Wet in rain
North West
The first thing you'll notice is the unique modification to the underlying rock (radiolarian chert): it's been polished to a glassy sheet by a shifting fault line, with just enough rough patches scattered across it to allow an ascent. In places, the rock looks like glass, polished enough to see one's reflection.
Most routes are top-roped via a chain anchor attached to the metal fence along the top of the cliff; however, there are options for placing marginal pro in the main crack if you're feeling particularly bold. Note however that the exceptionally polished rock will make it difficult to place bomber pieces (nuts won't "seat" very well, cams will slide right out, etc.).
The rock quality in the final 6 feet of the cliff is very poor, so be very careful to avoid knocking rocks off of the cliff when setting up a top rope or if topping out. Helmets are also strongly recommended for both climber & belayers!
The mild climate of the city can mean cool climbing here in the middle of summer, but if it's foggy in the city, the rock may be wet. The cliff faces north and is hemmed in by buildings so is perpetually in the shade. The park underneath is also dark and damp, so expect it to be cold, even if it's hot on top of Corona Heights Hill.
This is a good spot if you're climbing with kids, as there's a good-sized playground right in the park directly underneath the cliff. They may be a little stymied by the tenuous nature of the climbing however.
People walk their dogs here, so watch where you step (or where you flake out your rope).
Access issues
Tolerated
For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.
SF Rec & Park have been concerned about damage to the slickenside, and in 2014 this resulted in the temporary imposition of a permit system. While that system was removed after lobbying from local climbers, it is critically important that climbers not alter the rock here in any way, including any placement or replacement of fixed protection. This has been SF Rec & Park's primary concern.
Note that the signs that state that a permit is required are expected to be removed by SF Rec & Park at some point. If in doubt, feel free to call the number on the sign (415-831-5500 - SF Rec & Park's Permits Division), press 7, then request a permit to climb at Beaver St Wall in Corona Heights Park. If you connect with someone knowledgeable you will be told that a permit isn't required and to go ahead and climb.
Approach
Flat
<5 min
The wall is located at Beaver Street and 15th Street in the northeast corner of the Corona Heights Park, right next to the Peixotto Playground. There is street parking on Beaver St. The Castro Street MUNI Metro station is 3 blocks to the south.
There is foot access for setting up a top rope; however, to maintain good relations with the land manager and neighbors, and to avoid unnecessary rockfall, do not scramble up the chossy face where the wall meets Beaver St. Instead, walk south on Beaver Street until you reach the bend. Follow the pedestrian alley (De Forest) up the stairs to the right (to the end of Flint St), and take the path uphill and right past the tennis courts until you reach the top of the wall.
Plan your Trip
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic
Date: 2022
ISBN: 9798218007959
- Edgewalker Entertainment:
- A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
- Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations
ⓘ
Author(s): Toby Evans
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9781493045464
- FalconGuides:
- Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
- California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
- Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
- Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit
ⓘ
Accommodations nearby more Hide
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