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Cragmont Park Rock climbing 13 routes in cliff

13
YDS
5.55.75.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c5.12a5.12c5.13a

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Description

Another popular little Berkeley cliff tucked away in suburbia. Is popular with guides and can be overrun on the weekends.

Access issues inherited from San Francisco Bay Area

For any/all access issues at crags in this region, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Approach

Park on Regal Rd, then wander down the path on the left side of the park. To set top ropes, head through the flat grassy area on top, hop the stone wall then carefully navigate the cliff top.

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Contents

Routes

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Northeast Face Back to contents

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2
5.5 Corner Crack Top rope 30ft

Has become pretty vegetated.

3
5.10a ★ Senior Top rope 30ft
4
5.9 ★ Junior Top rope 30ft
5
5.7 ★ Undercling Trad 35ft
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5.6 ★ Cragmont Crack Trad 35ft

Usually toproped as the rock isn't the best for placing gear.

7
5.8 ★ The Seam Top rope 35ft

East Face Back to contents

9
5.10a ★ Cave Route Top rope 35ft

Climbs the right side of the cave. Top-rope anchors can only be safely accessed by rappel.

10
5.11a ★ Cave Route Left Top rope 35ft

Start on 'Farewell To Arms', move right at the ledge, then up the left side of the Cave.

11
5.10b ★ Farewell To Arms Sport 35ft, 4

A blocky slab leads to the business - a steep flake followed by stylish moves through the large heuco. Top out is the crux. 4 ring bolts to double fixed hanger anchor accessible from top (take care getting to them).

12
5.12a ★ Wipeout Right Sport 35ft, 3
13
5.10d ★ Wipeout Left Top rope 35ft

As for 'Wipeout Right' until below the steep headwall, then diagonally left and up.

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5.10b ★ East Face Top rope 35ft

The face left of the overhang. Shares an anchor with 'Wipeout Left'.

Gomer's Pile Back to contents

A separate outcrop on the right side of the park, facing from the street.

16
V7 ★ Gomer's Pile Boulder

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Golden State Bouldering

Author(s): Kimbrough Moore, Shannon Joslin, Leo Popovic

Date: 2022

ISBN: 9798218007959

Edgewalker Entertainment:
A comprehensive guide to the greater Bay Area of California, Golden State Bouldering provides readers with info on the outdoor bouldering around San Francisco, Sacramento, Santa Rosa and Santa Cruz.
  • Describes 1,600 boulder problems with hundreds of color photos, maps, GPS coordinates and hand-drawn illustrations
Buy
ⓘ
Climbing California's Fourteeners

Author(s): Toby Evans

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493045464

FalconGuides:
Hiking the State's 15 Peaks Over 14,000 Feet. Developed for every skill level, the FalconGuides Climbing California's Fourteeners lays out plans and logistics for making your climb a positive experience—no matter how many summits you've reached.
  • California's 15 peaks over 14,000 ft. are becoming more popular, and this book provides essential information for taking them on
  • Each mountain is broken down based on the technical skills needed so you know what to expect
  • Details for each climb include a list of recommended equipment, how to prepare for rapidly changing weather and trail conditions, and a general timeframe needed to summit
Buy
ⓘ

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★ Gomer's Pile V7 - gomerspile.jpg

Thu 20 Apr
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