Stay high on the saddle to follow faint trails through the manzanita from the Crags Trail towards the descent gully. Skirt left around the base of Mt Hubris until you reach the large tree at the base of the right-facing dihedral that marks the beginning of the route.
180ft (5.5) Follow the right-facing dihedral to its end at a chockstone and large tree (optional belay). Continue up the low angle face to belay from a smaller tree.
110ft (5.6) Continue up and right along a broken dike, passing a piton. When level with the ogre's eye, make an airy crux traverse right to the bolted anchor on the comfy ledge.
200ft (5.6) Reverse the traverse, then head up low angle run-out slabs to a left-facing dihedral. Pass a pair of bad bolts and continue up and left to a large ledge with a tree.
160ft (5.6) Large flakes lead up to a notch just below the final ridge line. Belay from gear.
140ft (5.4) Follow the ridge line to the bolted summit and soak up the exposure.
Descend the NE face with a 90ft rappel from chains, then an 80ft rappel from rings. Follow the 3rd class gully back down to meet the saddle approach trail in the manzanita.
Gear: 60m rope, standard rack to 3" plus long slings for horns and thread-throughs.
|1979||First free ascent: Michael Zanger, Chris Bonington & Andre Nowacki|
|★★★Hard Landin' Brandon|
|5.5, 5.6, 5.6, 5.6, 5.4||Hard Landin' Brandon|
|5.6||Rock 'N Road: Rock Climbing Areas of North America|
|5.6||★★★ Classic Rock #18 Castle Crags, California|